I have a question regarding a 1936 proof Buffalo. They made 2 versions, satin and brilliant. On a toned or maybe a better term is hazed coin how can you tell which one it is? Are there any diagnostics for the different versions?
The surface of the coin itself is your best diagnostic, toned/haze or not. The brilliant will look like modern Proofs, the satin will not.
I have seen both the Type I Satin and the Type II Brilliant Finish in TPG holders but it was at different times so there was no way to compare them toe to toe, so to speak. The Brilliant Finish was very obvious, glossy, watery look, where as the Satin Finish was dull through out but still had a certain luster to the surfaces. Even with toning (I’m not to sure you’d want these examples toned, but that is up to the individual) you would be able to immediately tell the difference between the two. They were both referred to as having the 1936 reverse. I wished I owned either one, the Satin is a nice example of what our Mint was capable of producing. Happy Collecting
From what I understand the satin was produced first. It wasn't made on purpose. That's just the way they came out until the mint perfected the proof making process. Then later on the perfected process produced the more brilliant coin.
This is true about the satin vs. brilliant. The Philadelphia Mint quit making proof coinage in 1916 and by 1936, the Mint actually lost the ability to produce quality proof coin dies. The manufacture of poof coin dies from this early era required the dies to be polished then pickled, which produced the satin finishes. By 1936 those die makers had long since retired or passed on and through experimentation, the process was refined.
Now what fun would that be! The brilliant proof would have the typical mirrored finish you are accustomed to seeing on a proof coin. Toning or not, you should be able to instantly see the difference between the two surfaces. If you told me you were having trouble telling the difference between 1936 satin proof and a business strike, that I could believe. Now wait for Leadfoot to show up with his toned satin Buffalo, it is a doozy!
IMO, the easiest way to tell is the satin proof will cartwheel like a mint state business strike. The brilliant proof will not cartwheel. Once you've seen a few, you can tell the difference from 20 feet.....Mike
Very nice...perfect except that mole on his cheek. If it wasn't so darn smooth you would not notice that. Is it graded, if so what grade please.
Nice coins both of them. The one I am looking at does not have the toning as much. Getting ready to make an offer on it but really stumped as what to say price wize.
***** The coin is raw. It was graded by owner MS65Pr whatever that means. But it's still in the New England Rare Coin Galleries pouch which scares me because I know the money involved. Supposedly the purchaser paid $2,650. NERCG printed PF65 on the flip. I can see a little spot right under the Buffalo's tail. Other than that it is nice.
Is the one your looking at already in plastic? If so, who's? Grade? Does it specify PR or SATIN? Caution: Much of your final offer will need to include this information. If the one your looking at is raw, you will need a expert opinions FIRST! These go for some serious coin.
The flyspecs are the only shortcoming on the coin -- and likely why it didn't grade 68 -- it is otherwise just about perfect. NGC graded the coin 67, and FWIW, I paid 67+ money for it (purchased from another collector).
My coin is a rainbow toned NGC PF67 and I paid nearly the same price you are talking about. I wouldn't shell out that kind of money on a raw Satin Proof 1936 Buffalo. The optimal collecting grade for this issue is PF66 as there is a big price jump from PF66 to PF67. Is the dealer planning on having the coin graded?
Just a small time sale. No dealer involved. But I think if I get it the smart thing is to send it out. I tried getting pics today but my lighting is way off. Thanks for the advice.
