Sorry, but I'll have to wait to post pictures until my batteries recharge. I'm still very new to the game, so how does one go about determining the value of a double date?
There is no way in determining the value of your coin without proper photographs to examine. Next time- Photograph first, create thread later. -Brian
The 2 1927 Doubled Die coins are very hard to see. Mechanical doubling ( no value) is much more common, but no one can tell until we see them. Concentrate on the date and "Liberty" with the photos. Welcome to the forum. Jim
Pictures More to come. I'm taking more right now I don't have a good way of taking close ups because I only have a digital camera and a magnify glass. Trying to combine them is slow going =p
Sorry my pictures are horrible, but I'm trying the best I can with what I have. Here are the only two out of 4-5 dozen that actually turned out semi-okay. So what am I looking for? Explain it to me like I'm a complete idiot. I am super new to looking for errors. When I last collected I was a kid and I pretty much looked for really odd coins or certain dates. To me this one seemed pretty obvious, but I don't know what it means now that I found. Does it add value? Does it matter that it is only doubled on the date? Is it better for it all to be doubled? Again sorry for all the questions I'm just excited to be getting started again and I am wanting to learn as much as possible. -JB
The doubling appears to be strike doubling (aka machine doubling) which occurs just after the hammer die strikes the coin. As the die moves away from the just-struck coin the die chatters or moves slightly and shears off some of the raised features of the coin. This results in shelf-like "doubling" on the coin - which looks exactly like the "doubling" on your coin. A coin with strike doubling carries no numismatic premium. Search the threads here on CoinTalk for a more in-depth explanation of strike doubling vs a true doubled die.
