Okay I am debating on buying a 1922 plain and am wondering what does the Die pair #3 mean? I am a little newby.. So I come here for help, but I guess thats what its for :smile The exact title of the coin is 1922 PLAIN NO D LINCOLN CENT DIE PAIR #3 Please help me I have included pictures of the coin below and was wondering if you all would tell me about that this particular coin should go for. (This is the coin that was labeled 1922 plain no d lincoln cent die pair #3 and is the one that I am debatig on buying)
There were literally 4 die pairs know to produce the 1922 plain cent. Each pair had its own unique characteristics. See http://lincolncentresource.com/1922Ddievarieties.html
I will give you a different opinion. It is worth maybe $50. It is not certified and I would guess that it would come back as a weak "D" in stead of a no "D".
Well there seems to be no D at all not even a trace of one.. But I did read online that the Die pair 3 produced weak D's this one could be so weak that its not there but then again thats what a 22 plain is haha. I'm going to add another picture of the coin it is a close up on the date so you can see where the D should be or not.
What I am seeing is right where the MM is supposed to be. What they do not say at the reference I sited is that for it to qualify as a no "D", there can be no trace of a "D" under 10 X power magnification.
Okay. I am going to the coin shop today to use there microscope haha. I'm going to look at my dads 22 D because I just looked at it and can't find a D i'm sure its a weak D but just cannot find it. Also I see no trace of the D in the picture do you?
I completely agree, I wouldn't buy this coin as a No D. There appears to be a hint of something there. I personally wouldn't buy one of these unless it is certified. I think I do. Look just below the date in your first picture. There is a small patch that appears lighter than the rest of the area. That small light patch is right where a MM would be and is about the right size. I would say this could be a MM trace that has been work off from circulation and a TPG would probably call this a weak D because of that possibility. How much is the coin shop asking for this coin?
Stick with die pair 2 The bottom line is that Die Pair 2 (No D, Strong Reverse) brings by far the best money when you go to resell. So I would stick with that one, you are already trying to figure out if a partial D is showing or not. IMHO
Hm thanks guys and this was an ebay auction that is the only reason I was hesitent if it had been a coin dealer I would be more likely to have just bought it. It is going for 105 righ now wich is a bit high for a weak D but it says no D but like you all said it is not certified and I could be gettin scammed so I will just back off and not buy it. Thanks for all the input!
The question is whether weak "D" is true if you see any disturbance of the surface where the mm might be, or if you actually have to see at least a faint "D" shaped image? Since it is said that all no D type 1,3,and 4 are from grease filling/strike pressure/wear/,etc, shouldn't there be some disturbance as seen normally from grease filled dies, etc ? It appears to me as a No D, weak reverse, and RLM's $50 sounds about right. Not totally off the subject, but does any one know how many actual die pairs were used for the 22-D run? I know the weak/no D includes 4, but as I am going through the roll of 22-D I obtained, I find a couple that appear to be weak D, strong reverse, which I assume is just a normal 22D with some grease. Thanks Jim
