1917D, 1943S, 1945, 1939S, and 1936D Mercury Dimes - Need Valuation Determined

All,

Believe it or not this is my first post here, so yes I'm a newcomer. I've lurked in the shadows for a while, and gained a good bit of great info from each of the posters here. That said, I have come upon a new situation with my own collection and would appreciate your feedback. So here goes:

About a year ago I started shifting into Silver. I love junk silver coins and have finally accumulated to the point I am now scrutinizing the individual dates and conditions. I have five mercury dimes that are confusing me a bit. I believe they might have some value, but I'm not certain. Worst case scenario they are still nice years for this coin, best case I have a few hard to find mints. Half of what is confusing me is the way the 3rd Edition Whitman Redbook lists the valuation for each of them. For example, the redbook shows a 1945 no mint mercury at MS64-FB at 5,350. Then one column over it shows me 28 for an MS65.

So here is what I may or may not be dealing with:

1917D - Mint for that year was 9,402,000 and at MS-63 it shows 350
1936D - Mint for that year was 16,132,000 and at MS-64FB it shows 120
1939S - Mint for that year was 10,540,000 and at MS64-FB it shows 200
1943S - Mint fot that year was 60,400,00 but I believe I may have a trumpet tail mint stamp. For the trumpet tail S at MS64FB that variant shows 500
1945 - Mint for that die (no mint stamp) was 159,130,000 but once again I'm having issues understanding what I am seeing. For MS-64FB the redbook shows 5350, but right next to it I see MS65 show 28. Then third column over it shows MS-65FB at 12,750.

So before I look like a complete fool when I negotiate sale of these dimes, I am hoping you guys can help me sort out reality. I rarely sell or trade, but I'm considering doing so and need to know what I really have. I will attempt to take a few good photos to attach to this. Again, I got these out of a small bag of junk silver a while back, so I stand to lose nothing if you tell me I'm on a goose chase. I appreciate your advice, so let me have it!

Thanks, Rick

(ok photos from my phone camera aren't working out - stay tuned while I figure out how to get some good resolution pics uploaded.)

 

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So I take it these are all raw coins, not slabbed & graded by a TPG. If they came from a bag of junk silver coins, they were probably rubbing against other coins in the bag. Therfore reducing there true UNC MS grading status. Yes, pics will really help us critique these coins.

 

Here's an MS64FB coin.




More realistically, that coin would probably grade 65 or better today. Just to give you an idea of what a conservatively graded 64 looks like. I'm going to bet your coins are in such condition that they would probably not draw much of a premium at all. I'll hold out for pictures though.

 

Welcome to CT, Rick. I hope you never have to use your 'chute.

First, understand that the Red Book price list is not at all accurate. It's usually much higher than reality. Don't use it to determine value. Other than that, it is the best book you can own.

The FB designation refers to the banding around the torch on the reverse of Winged Liberty dimes. A coin with full bands will carry a premium over non full band coins, sometimes a hefty premium. That's why you see two grades (MS65FB and MS65) and two prices. I can see why you are so confused over this. Full bands are only found on extremely well struck coins that have very little to no wear. Because you got your dimes from the junk bin, they are most likely not FB quality.

Now, let's see some photos, Rick!

BTW. I learned all of this, and more, here on CT! Thanks, everyone!

 

Just to answer some of your questions without seeing the coins. Red Book is a great ANA grading source and information source. The prices in there are based on speculation of what the coins hope to be worth someday. Only problem is they don't say how soon or late that date will be. The Blue Book is a better idea of what a dealer will pay for the coins for collectors add 10-20% sometimes more. The greysheet (also known as the CDN or coin dealer newsletter) is the best option as 9 out of 10 dealers use this tool to acurately price coins. You can get a current one for about $4. Using CDN BID prices (not retail ASK prices) the 17-D is around a hundred less. The 36-D with FB in 64 is $80 as for the 43 trumpet S that's a variety and not listed however in order to shoot for the $500+ mark most collectors are going to want a 65 FB as a normal 65 without FB designation is only $400 in the cherrypickers guide. I have a MS63 minimum grade no FB and can't find a dealer to buy it because not 1 in 100 people are going to walk in the door and ask for one. That would be a collector to collector or ebay, stacks, HA kind of deal. Finally the 45 on this one the FB drives the price. MS64 and 65's are just too common in contrast to getting that elusive FB. In fact it's not just that year almost all 64FB's after about 1923 command more than MS65 without. Here again though the prices are off 64FB $3800 MS65 $23 and 65FB comes in at $8,000. Having said all that it means nothing if the coins are not in those grades or demand those attributes plain and simple. In fact NGC requires all horizontal bands to be full and split while PCGS will let the upper and lower slide as long as the "belt" or middle bands are complete. Although grading changes year to year so this may not be 100% accurate and my opinion based on reading their websites on grading.

 

I'm uploading about five pics right now to photobucket. I will have them linked to a post here for each as I get them uploaded. The connection is slow where I'm at, but I need to figure this out, so I'm going to get them uploaded if I have to melt down my laptop

First photo will be up shortly.

In answer to your response - yes they aren't perfect. The 1917 dime was the most worn of all five. The 1943S that I think could be a trumpet tail is not bad, but I am not going to attempt to even guess at the grade - I'd rather get your opinions first and then I'm taking it to a professional at some point in the next month.

ok photobucket is cooperating finally - here is link one of five:
http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/gg497/airbornerick/100_0232.jpg

~Rick

 

The 36, 39, 43, all show circulation wear & looked like they were cleaned at one time.

 

almost have the next photo uploaded. Next will be the reverse in the same order as shown on photo 1. I apologize for the photo quality, I need to sort out a better way to take these close in photos for future posts. Once I get photo 2 uploaded and show you the reverses, I will try to get as close as I can on the back of the one I think is a trumpet tail. Thanks much

http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/gg497/airbornerick/100_0233.jpg

 

Do some comparing to PCGS Photograde


>>>>>>> http://www.pcgs.com/Photograde/#/Mercury/Grades

 

Ok I surrender with the uploads after this one.

Thanks to all for the great information thus far. I'll be absorbing it over the next few hours, and I definitely appreciate the explanation regarding the bands, I completely missed that in my initial research.

Here is a link to the image showing the reverse of the 43S that I was considering a possible trumpet tail:
http://i1240.photobucket.com/albums/gg497/airbornerick/100_0234.jpg

 

Fantastic breakdown. I'll run out and grab the other guides this week. I foresee a good bit more need for accurate valuation now that I'm turning from a strict collector to a willingness to exchange/trade/sell an occasional item. I haven't really dug into grading in a very long time, it's been over 30 years since I last even considered selling anything I collected (I was pretty young back then).

I have a strong interest - as I mentioned before - in high silver content coinage. I am likely going to look at a percentage of my collection that has a higher collector value and shift to bullion and bulk silver.

Thanks for all the great answers so far ....

 

McBlzr,

Greatly appreciate that linked grading gallery you posted. I will be pouring over that as I dig through the rest of my collection, and I have kennedy halves and walking libs to sort out tomorrow morning. ~ Rick

 

If you want some great FREE pricing tools, make an account at ha.com (free) and you can search their completed auctions and get real nice pics/prices on coins, as well as numismedia.com. Oh, and Ebay completed auctions aren't a bad source of pricing data either. Your '43-S is damaged, and even if it is/was the rarer mintmark, wouldn't be worth anything more than melt, unfortunately.

 

After seeing the pics I wouldn't go out and get the CDN the coins are circulated. I would check before spending the money I know some libraries carry red and blue books in the reference section. Also check amazon for cheap deals before shelling out $20-$25. As for the trumpet tail the top serif looks promising but the bottom one is worn so flat that a professional wouldn't be a bad idea. Circulated condition though is common I was hoping the 43S was a clipped rim but it looks like PMD (post mint damage) someone polished or ground the edge down and that's a shame especially if it is a trumpet tail.

 

You can upload pics directly to CoinTalk.

 

When you have your photobucket album open and you hover your cursor over the image, a box drops down with links. Copy the bottom-most link and paste it in your post. Your pic will appear within your post.

 

I'm skimming the other's posts so forgive me if I am repeating what others have said (and I missed), but to clarify what you see in your redbook- There are two classifications for uncirculated mercury dimes- MS and MSFB. MS is simply mint state, meaning uncirculated. Mercury dimes did not strike up completely on the reverse; the separation lines on the band across the faces usually is not clearly defined. Whne the line is clear, crisp, and sharp, that dime is called MSFB.
MS and MSFB do not apply to circulated coins.
Also, 1945 MSFB dimes carry a substantial premium because so many of the dimes were poorly struck and therefore just MS.