1916 Standing Liberty Quarter - PCGS slab + CAC sticker

Hi all. I am trying to figure out how much a green CAC sticker adds to a slabbed coin. When I input this serial number in PCGS site, it gives a $1500 value for this specific coin. However, I know a CAC sticker can add a premium - what kind of premium is that, though? What percentage?

When I look it up on ebay SOLD, even without the sticker there are examples of this coin in this condition going for even more than $1500.

In the end, what would y'all say is a good valuation for this coin?

 

Log in or Sign up to hide this ad.

I'd expect around $1500-1750

 

I would take Ebay listings asking prices with a grain of salt as people can ask for whatever they want. Using sold listings is a little better as it will show you what people are willing to actually pay. There was this coin below closest to condition wise of your coin in an NGC G6 slab sold on Heritage for $2350 Jan 4, 2017. https://coins.ha.com/itm/standing-l.../1251-4054.s?ic4=GalleryView-Thumbnail-071515

This NGC G4 on ebay sold for $2,200 Sunday July 16th
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1916-Standing-Liberty-Quarter-PCGS-G04-/132200790876?hash=item1ec7c7fb5c:g:lO4AAOSw42dZIxdZ&nma=true&si=5XeIT6olNVwqCeo%2FCDCRHIvN%2BPg%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

And here's a PCGS G4 sold on June 1, 2017 that went for $2602

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1916-Standi...790876?hash=item1ec7c7fb5c:g:lO4AAOSw42dZIxdZ

Based on these I'd say that what you could realistically expect may be a little higher than what PCGS price guide is saying but personally I don't think you'd get to $2000 with that coin. Also what does the reverse look like?

 

I realize that there are other markers that distinguish this as a 1916, but dateless and scratched, it holds about zero value for me and I think that PCGS should not have given this a straight grade. I don't mean to bash the coin if it's yours, I just find it very difficult to put a value on something like this; sort of like acid "restored date" buffalo nickels.

 

Oh, sorry. Here's the reverse.

 

For a SLQ, dateless will still grade - P1, FR2, and AG3 are all dateless grades, for the most part. G4 is where you start seeing hints of the date. The fact that this CAN be identified positively as a 1916, even without a visible date, is (I assume) what makes a grade possible at that point. Unlike with the nickels you referenced, however, the coin was not damaged or altered in order to figure this out, thus, the straight grade is possible. There is one scratch, true, but I guess it wasn't enough to be a problem at that grade. In fact, the CAC sticker means that even by the strictest grading standards, it's a high-end example of that grade.

that said, I can appreciate that for some people like yourself, you are not interested in a coin in this condition. For a key date, though, this is for many people the best condition they can afford. In this condition, it's still over $1500 coin - tons of us cannot even begin to wrap that much money into one coin.

Thank you for your response

 

I know, I only ever look at sold listings when trying to figure things out.

Thank you for the help!

 

What are the markers unique to 1916? Just the lack of stars under the eagle?

 

Both the 1916 and the Type 1 1917 quarters lack the stars underneath the eagle.

http://coinauctionshelp.com/identify1916standingquarter.html#.WW6dsMs8Kf0

 

As CoinBreaux states, both 1916 and (some) 1917 lack the stars. ALL of these type 1 quarters are worth picking up if you see them in a junk silver bucket, because even the 1917 type 1 is worth at least $10-$15 dateless. But of course, the 1916 is the real prize.

The hair curl is different between the 2, but if it is worn dateless it is going to be very hard to tell the difference. The very best indicator in a low grade example is the bottom of the robe on the left side of the quarter, the fold there has a thinner opening, and doesn't come down quite as far. On the 1917, it has a significantly larger opening, and goes down closer to the date. Also, on her foot on the right side of the coin, her big toe is significantly bigger on the 1916.

I know these seem like tiny differences, easily mistaken, but once you see a couple of examples in hand, you quickly get a feel for it.

Side note - because the difference is subtle, when looking at ebay sold right now, I see 1, maybe 2 1916 dateless quarters that sold for under $10.

 

1916:



1917 and later:



Images courtesy of Heritage. Once you have that difference in the robe above 19 fixed in your head, you'll be able to tell a 1916 into basal state.