What grade would you give this, and what(if any) Newcombe number would it be? The second 'A' in America looks weird.
Definitely not an expert opinion here, but after a bit of reading and comparing I would say VF... Open to corrections though.
I have a tendency to overgrade large cents, so I have to check my references..... put me in the VF-30 slot.
Your right. It is VF not XF. But a mid to high VF. I just wanted to be a little too optimistic tonight.
uh oh.... I may actually be learning a little something as I go along.... although I was thinking more VF-20 so I do have some work to do.....
EAC grade: VF 30 details, AVG -, net F 15. TPG grade: XF details, cleaned/corroded, net VF Leadfoot's grade: About $25 Cool coin!
p.s. I have no idea on the Newcomb variety -- nothing obvious stood out and these are a major pain to attribute.
AMEN to that. I was recently talking to Tom Reynolds about attributing Large Cents. Man he is good at it, but Holy Cow, I think it would be easier to learn to be a brain surgeon. Anyone up for a free Lobotomy?
Well - I think it is a N-6. Could be wrong but in this grade with this size picture it is impossible to figure out for sure. Heck - even in hand some of these late dates are impossible. Still nice coin!
Unless it has a feature that stands out and/or is AU with awesome pics, Bob's book sucks to attribute these, since the most important part is the date, since it changes position, and he left that part off his pics. :goof: So as far as I'm concerned, Bob's book is for prima donnas that only buy/collect AU or better coppers. :whistle: Otherwise, it pretty much sucks to use to attribute worn or damaged BHC's, unless there is a feature on them that stands out, like a serious crack or cud. Ribbit
My amphibian friend, Do you think that Bob's book sucks, or the differences between the coins so minimal that any book on the topic would still leave the job difficult? Personally, I feel the latter is true, however you are free to disagree. Take care...Mike
I kind of agree with Mike. I use both my books - one to confirm the other if possible. The problem is that in this case the pictures are not good enough to really see some of the details needed to attribute. In this case I think I see the crack through ATE.
As an aside, the challenging nature of attribution on these late date cents will seriously hamper the chance that collecting them by variety will become popular, IMO.
Otay then, tell me which one is this: The BIGGEST difference on BHC's is the date placement, yet Bob didn't include the date in his drawings on most of the plates. :goof: So can you figure out which one is a N-2? :whistle: Ribbit Ps: If you go by the file name, you may be in for a surprise. Pps: My mouse went out during posting this and I ran all around town to find a new one and the place I originally got it, is out of business so I am mouseless at this time and I can't deal with the touch-pad so I will not be around for a few days until my new mouse arrives, since I had to order it. It took me forever to finish this post, using the touch-pad and I ain't dealing with that so I'll see you all in a few days. :hail:
Even if he did include drawings of each date, those pics aren't nearly large enough to attribute from. However, give me a good shot of the reverses of those three coins, and I'll be able to pick out the N-2 in about 3 seconds. The point being -- even if he HAD included pics of the date, the variations between them are still minute and too small to make attribution from date placement alone. Even photos would be next to useless. However, the better/easier way to attribute them is to look for the telltale die chips/lumps/polish -- and the drawings do a superb job of showing them (although like you I'd like high res pics even more -- maybe we should re-do his work online with annotated 10mp photos, now that's a neat idea, but I'm not sue Bob would be that happy!). Respectfully...Mike