1853 Large cent

Discussion in 'US Coins Forum' started by dracula370, May 17, 2009.

  1. dracula370

    dracula370 Mmmmmmm......Bacon

    What grade would you give this, and what(if any) Newcombe number would it be? The second 'A' in America looks weird.

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  3. byrd740

    byrd740 Numismatist

    I think XF sounds good.
     
  4. cwart

    cwart Senior Member

    Definitely not an expert opinion here, but after a bit of reading and comparing I would say VF... Open to corrections though. :)
     
  5. tmoneyeagles

    tmoneyeagles Indian Buffalo Gatherer

    VF35 would be my guess
     
  6. ksparrow

    ksparrow Coin Hoarder Supporter

    I have a tendency to overgrade large cents, so I have to check my references..... put me in the VF-30 slot.
     
  7. byrd740

    byrd740 Numismatist

    Your right. It is VF not XF. But a mid to high VF. I just wanted to be a little too optimistic tonight.:D
     
  8. der_meister77

    der_meister77 Senior Member

  9. cwart

    cwart Senior Member

    uh oh.... I may actually be learning a little something as I go along.... although I was thinking more VF-20 so I do have some work to do..... ;)
     
  10. tmoneyeagles

    tmoneyeagles Indian Buffalo Gatherer

    Comparing it to some other coins, I'm going to change my answer... VF25
     
  11. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot there is no spoon

    EAC grade: VF 30 details, AVG -, net F 15.
    TPG grade: XF details, cleaned/corroded, net VF
    Leadfoot's grade: About $25
    Cool coin!
     
  12. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot there is no spoon

    p.s. I have no idea on the Newcomb variety -- nothing obvious stood out and these are a major pain to attribute.
     
  13. Jim M

    Jim M Ride it like ya stole it

    AMEN to that. I was recently talking to Tom Reynolds about attributing Large Cents. Man he is good at it, but Holy Cow, I think it would be easier to learn to be a brain surgeon. Anyone up for a free Lobotomy?
     
  14. mark_h

    mark_h Somewhere over the rainbow

    Well - I think it is a N-6. Could be wrong but in this grade with this size picture it is impossible to figure out for sure. Heck - even in hand some of these late dates are impossible. Still nice coin!
     
  15. HandsomeToad

    HandsomeToad Urinist

    Unless it has a feature that stands out and/or is AU with awesome pics, Bob's book sucks to attribute these, since the most important part is the date, since it changes position, and he left that part off his pics. :goof: So as far as I'm concerned, Bob's book is for prima donnas that only buy/collect AU or better coppers. :whistle: Otherwise, it pretty much sucks to use to attribute worn or damaged BHC's, unless there is a feature on them that stands out, like a serious crack or cud. ;)

    Ribbit :)
     
  16. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot there is no spoon

    My amphibian friend,

    Do you think that Bob's book sucks, or the differences between the coins so minimal that any book on the topic would still leave the job difficult?

    Personally, I feel the latter is true, however you are free to disagree. :)

    Take care...Mike
     
  17. mark_h

    mark_h Somewhere over the rainbow

    I kind of agree with Mike. I use both my books - one to confirm the other if possible. The problem is that in this case the pictures are not good enough to really see some of the details needed to attribute. In this case I think I see the crack through ATE.
     
  18. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot there is no spoon

    As an aside, the challenging nature of attribution on these late date cents will seriously hamper the chance that collecting them by variety will become popular, IMO.
     
  19. HandsomeToad

    HandsomeToad Urinist

    Otay then, tell me which one is this:

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    The BIGGEST difference on BHC's is the date placement, yet Bob didn't include the date in his drawings on most of the plates. :goof:

    So can you figure out which one is a N-2? :whistle:

    Ribbit :)

    Ps: If you go by the file name, you may be in for a surprise. :D

    Pps: My mouse went out during posting this and I ran all around town to find a new one and the place I originally got it, is out of business so I am mouseless at this time and I can't deal with the touch-pad so I will not be around for a few days until my new mouse arrives, since I had to order it. :( It took me forever to finish this post, using the touch-pad and I ain't dealing with that so I'll see you all in a few days. :hail:
     
  20. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot there is no spoon

    Even if he did include drawings of each date, those pics aren't nearly large enough to attribute from.

    However, give me a good shot of the reverses of those three coins, and I'll be able to pick out the N-2 in about 3 seconds. ;)

    The point being -- even if he HAD included pics of the date, the variations between them are still minute and too small to make attribution from date placement alone. Even photos would be next to useless. However, the better/easier way to attribute them is to look for the telltale die chips/lumps/polish -- and the drawings do a superb job of showing them (although like you I'd like high res pics even more -- maybe we should re-do his work online with annotated 10mp photos, now that's a neat idea, but I'm not sue Bob would be that happy!).

    Respectfully...Mike
     
  21. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot there is no spoon

    p.s. I'll take coin #1.
     
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