Fine-Details. Coin has been cleaned. Also, judging by the stretching of the stars on the obverse, it looks like it was struck later in the die's life (die is well worn), although, that is irrelevant because it does not affect the overall value (but it does affect the overall eye-appeal, which may sway a collector towards paying less for this particular example). -Brian
I would give it somewhere between F and VF. I would give you $80 for it. (That isn't an offer though.lol)
VG and a ton of compound used to make it purty. ie.. polished to death. value.. I wouldnt go over $35 for it myself and thats stretching it. Overton.. Log Potato, can you share how you came to that conclusion.. just curious.
I don't have my book with me at the moment, but when I get home I will look for the die markers. I'm relatively new with attributing so I wouldn't take my attributions as gospel.
Yeah, but some people value quantity over quality when it comes to posting. When you are a new member and you want to quickly get your post total up into the thousands you sometimes have to resort to making two-character replies to every other post made.
I also go with VG polished. The obverse could be F, but with a VG reverse and it being polished anyway no need to split grades. I would also go with a $35 price, and that might be strong since you are just going to sell it as a inexpensive type. To put it in perspective, I just bought a AU of the same date a few weeks ago for $110. Yeah, that was a good price, but collector coins right now are still somewhat weak it seems. Bullion and silver dollars are attracting most of the money in the hobby, (well ancients too, but that is for a different reason).
I do not think , Hobo, that my posts have been bad at all. They may not be the most informal of the whole thread, but I believe that my posts have some form of quality to them. I am sorry for wasting your time by "+1"ing. I was only trying to state that I also agree with what they say, while making it possible to be notified if the thread develops further. :smile If you just, "like" the page, you will not be emailed a notification if you are offline , and may miss an opportunity to learn. Next time, I will think about the quality of my posts, over just learning from others. Sorry Hobo and Brian, Taylor:smile
Don't worry Taylor a lot of youngsters come along and make a few mistakes on posting. Like Hobo said the quality counts more than the quantity to oldsters. Just take your time and keep learning and enjoying the hobby. All YN"s will take a few lumps here and there from this crowd on this forum.
Thank you ! As I have said before, I will try to increase the quality of my posts, and spend more time stating my opinions and statements!
Ok, looking in the book it has the correct T-I position as well as A-A looks like they are almost touching.The bases of ED and AME are very close as well as the base of E is higher than the base of the second T in states. The obverse is sorta iffy since there are hardly segments to look for the star diagnostics. It could also be a O.116a, but with the severe polishing and the pictures its hard to tell. There doesn't seem to be die cracks or the lump in R in AMERICA.
You were correct based on the pictures to the Overton Number.. I am just trying to get people to share how they come to conclusions so they can be discussed if they are/were wrong. The key to this one is the Lower Second T in States.. Good Job..
