Typo, welcome to the forums. You obviously don't know me yet. I do not need AN English lesson, I write technical stuff everyday professionally.
That is where the metal has been acid damaged, no removing it.
There is NOTHING left when pure acetone dissolves, you are plain wrong. As I've said a million times, rinsing with water rehydrates the coin...
You have some bad acetone!
I don't recommend it either but apparently it has it's place in the numismatic world. It is a good cleaner, a simplistic one, but effective. For...
I suspect it is due to the formation of a thin layer of copper sulfate (blue). If anyone has a copper turned blue by MS70, I could run it on our...
Acetone is by far the best way to dry coins.
You missed water, that's the main ingredient. 2-butoxyethanol - A very good, polar organic solvent. It WILL dissolve PVC plasticizer residue....
Acetone is a Lewis base, very, very weak.
Personally, I would not use the term "restoration" when it comes to coins. It implies the coin has been altered or repaired. The proper...
Acetone should not be used in an open container. It evaporate rapidly and will redeposit any dissolved residue right back onto the coin.
PVC plasticizer residue contains hydrochloric acid, it's the acid that causes the damage. Because the coin was exposed so long to the acid, it has...
Neither does the 9 nor the 4.
The chinese fakes are horribly done, easy to spot.
Nice find!
When using Kroger fuel points I take my SUV and one of our other cars up at the same time. That way I can use the full 35 gallons! :) With this...
I like it! It has character!
Yes, struck-through cloth soaked in an unknown chemical (less likely) or perhaps something corrosive was stuck to the coin for a long time and...
The look of it suggests chemical exposure, likely the main contributor to the toning. Further substantiated by how it appears to run on the coin,...
I've found that hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) works but I prefer nitric acid (by far the best). You also just apply via a tiny drop to the...
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