Hi all, I just acquired an 1889 CC Morgan. To me, it looks like F - XF condition, but I'm not sure. I plan to sell it, but would like to get an idea of its worth beforehand. Take a look at the pics and let me know what you think. The camera I am using here isn't the best for this, I know. I plan to get better photos of the coin later today. You can see more pics of it in my Flickr account. http://www.flickr.com/photos/50558475@N04/sets/72157624192740777/ Thanks in advance.
I'm not questioning the authenticity of the coin, but have you checked it against the diagnostics for the 6 die pairs on the ANACS website? I know you have to register to view it, but it's free. You didn't say where you would be selling it, but since it is raw and since it has been counterfeited before, it might be to your advantage to provide this info to a potential buyer. It would make the sale seem all that more legitimate. Chris
Thanks, Chris. No, I haven't checked it against the ANACS site yet. I was debating on sending it in to them, or PCGS for authentication. I will likely sell it on Ebay. It's the only place I have experience with. Going to check it against the ANACS site now.
The 1889 CC looks EF-40 to me. I meant to say value, I was not trying to make an offer on it. Thanks, Steve
Strong line in top left of "E" in LIBERTY? Small parallel diagonal lines between the cotton bolls? The serif of the lefthand "C" of m/m lines up with the center of the bow knot? A scratch that looks like an "X" to the northeast of the m/m? Right "C" of m/m slightly lower? I'm trying to do this from memory. What else was there? Chris
nice coin! but with all the fakes on ebay, i don't think it would be a bad idea to send it in for grading. potential bidders may feel more comfortable bidding on something authenticated. i am not saying yours is fake at all, its just there are many fake coins on ebay.
Are there methods to actually verify the coin is silver, especially morgan dollars, in domestic circumstances? Would be great if experienced collectors could share some technique that can determine a fake but would not harm the silver.
Yes, NGC now offers such analysis as part of their grading/authenticating capability. PCGS has the equipment to do the same, and I know of a couple of people on the forum who could do it at their employment/educational location, but there are no home possibilities that would not harm the coin rather than a specific gravity test which could determine if the coin had the sp. gr. to POSSIBLY be 90% silver. Specific gravity tests can be fussy, I use them on gemstones and crystals, but the equipment can be home built or use inexpensive devices such as this. http://www.mineralab.com/Specific Gravity.htm for the size of coins.
I tried to get better pics in natural light. Even with a tripod, I can't do much better. I don't have a remote switch for the camera, so I have to actually make contact with the camera to snap the shot, which causes the camera to shake. I will try to dig my little usb microscope out tonight...if I can remember where I packed it off to. I uploaded a few more to my flickr account: http://www.flickr.com/photos/5055847...7624192740777/
To my eye it looks slightly better than this one on Heritage that was graded XF40 by PCGS and sold for $2530. http://coins.ha.com/common/view_item.php?Sale_No=420&Lot_No=1322#Photo
With a coin of that value I cannot think of any reason, other than not having the money, to not get it graded and authenticated. How bad would you feel if it sold for $1000 raw, when if graded/authenticated it might have drawn $2500? Is there any question in this case?
That's just the thing. I got laid off in April. I'm making it by on unemployment compensation, and the fees are fairly steep to have one graded and slabbed. I am going to a shop today to have them look it over. They are registered with PCGS. I am hoping they will make me an offer outright.
Being unemployed is tough and certainly makes the matter more complex. I don't know if the coin is real or not or if the surfaces have been manipulated to an extent that the piece could only be certified in a "Genuine" style holder, but for $30 or so plus whatever prorated shipping is charged you might find out. Again, I understand that unemployment is tough and this might not be easy.
If your camera has a timer setting you can take photos without camera shake. Simply set the timer to something reasonable (enough time for the camera to settle down after you press the shutter release button) and you should be able to get better results.
Ok, update here. Needing some money, I listed the Morgan on Ebay. After the price got up over $1500, Ebay pulled my listing saying the coin was counterfeit. So, disgusted as all get out, I sat down with my loupes, camera, and strong light, and started looking for reasons they would think it is a fake. One thing I found, that I think is odd, is what appears to be evidence of a die clash on the reverse, and a major die crack running straight through the date, from the bust. Markers I have found: High set 9 in date die break through entire date from bust side dropped 2nd c in MM evidence of die clash on reverse, to left of wing, just to the right of wheat line running from bottom of N in the motto, southward to top of wing These are what I have found so far...it's late, I'm tired, and can't find my microscope. Let me know if you think any of these indicate a forgery, or if it may indeed be worth getting the coin authenticated. I'm going to bed. Good night, and thanks in advance. Andrew
i can't help telling if its fake, but now i definitely would send it in. not many options to sell it. and for the small price you will pay, you will get much more back on this coin. this coin graded and authenticated is worth much more then raw because of fakes. that sucks they pulled it and if you used them same pictures i don't know how they could tell if its fake or not? i know money is tight but if you can scrounge up the money to send it in(easier said then done, right?), you will get even more then before. or you will find out its fake and not have to deal with selling it and getting it returned. if you really need the cash you can sell it to a dealer, you can't expect retail but its still money you didn't have. you can try some other auction websites and even craigslist. i know in my area there is a ton of wanted adds for coins such as these and they offer decent prices. you could probably try selling it on here, but with what ebay recently said, people probably wouldn't buy it.(even though ebay may very well be wrong, why risk that much money when you can get one authenticated for close to the same price.) again i am sorry and i feel for you. let us know what you decide to do. good luck and i am hoping you can get it authenticated!
