Since as conder says the obverse is a type II (feather between the C-A), it isn't a 1877 cent. Is there any way to get a better photo of the date area? Jim
Here you go. I suppose I should have posted higher resolution pictures to begin with. Maybe this will help out a bit: http://tinypic.com/r/2i889d4/4 (On the left of the page, click 'Zoom', then 'View Raw Image') And good catch, Condor. One other thing to add to the list.
Thanks for the photo! I am still not decided whether Conder is correct about the die, or if it is just an altered date. If it was altered, I suspect it was a '83 type 2, or a '88, assuming the faint lines on the photo are surface and not tone. Jim
Well, we all know this is a bad fake because #1 the feather points in between the C and A #2 the N in ONE is not weak as on most real 1877s #3 the 77 in the date looks modified plus the 1 in 1877 and the denticles look wrong also i wonder how much it weighs ??? i would vote its a cast copy- Snowman
Weighed it at 3.1 grams (scale only shows up to a tenth of a gram). PCGS Price Guide says the authentic pieces weigh 3.11g.
I didn't concern myself with what kind of a fake it was, the question was just is it a fake 1877 and as the photos were downloading as soon as I saw the hub type, the date wasn't even visible yet, I knew it was a fake. I didn't have to look for other features, I didn't have to decide if the date had been altered, or if it had been cast, or struck from fake dies or how i had been made. It was a fake and an easily provably fake. Question answered case closed. From that point on I ignored the coin and just read the answers.
It's an obvious fake - here's the real tale-tale sign The last feather in the headdress is pointing between the I and the A. In 1877, the last feather pointed between the C and the I.
Most genuine examples show a nearly right-angle clash from the obverse, on the reverse just above O in ONE. It is formed by the juncture of Liberty's chin and neck clashing into the reverse die (upside-down of course). Two die pairs are known. On obv. die 1, the 1 and 8 just touch, with the rev. clashing as above. On die pair 2, the 1 and 8 are barely apart. There is a die dot at the junction of the hair and neck, and there are single or multiple die clashes on the rev. as above, same rev. die. These diagnostics are for the business strikes with Weak N rev., not the proof revs. with Bold N in ONE.
I don't mean to barge into mycohoppers thread, but I thought posting this 1877 1C here, with the same question - IS IT REAL? may help the discussion. The tops of the "7's" look a bit odd to me, when comparing with other 1877's. Maybe I am seeing things. Thanks for your opinions, Eduard
Eduard, I'm not a expert by any means in the IHP department but this one looks legit to me. I've seen other certified 1877 with a slightly lower last "7". The week "N" in "ONE" is correct. Looks like a nice authentic, unaltered coin to me.
Thank you very much, georgiajeff. With all the talk about fake 1877's, I thought there was something different about the "77" in the date of my coin. Namely, the spikes on top of the 7's, and the thickness of the legs. But I guess they are OK. Regards, Eduard
Eduard, your coin looks OK to me, although of course it is difficult to say with certainty not having the coin in hand. I think I see the rev. clash marks, and the 7s look normal to me. Good luck!