Looking to buy a 1916D Mercury Dime. Is there anything I need to know?

Discussion in 'US Coins Forum' started by coincrazed1, May 22, 2010.

  1. coincrazed1

    coincrazed1 New Member

    Hey everyone! Is there anything I need to know when buying a 1916D Mercury dime? Do you have any advice for me when I buy one? I'm looking to buy an NGC Certified Good-4. Please help. - coincrazed
     
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  3. BR549

    BR549 Junior Member

    A 16-D Merc already encapsulated by NCG in G-4 condition is not much left to say...only that it have a hint of eye appeal.
     
  4. Tom B

    Tom B TomB Everywhere Else

    These have gone up in asking price an astonishing amount over the last few years, which makes me think they are due to either be stagnant or decline a bit in the future.
     
  5. johnny54321

    johnny54321 aspiring numismatist

    G-4s are all over the map. I'd look through the heritage archives at all of the G-4s that have sold, so you have as much knowlege as possible of coins that are strong for the grade, or weak for the grade. As I stated before, try to find one that has as strong a rims as possible. NGC is a great choice for this coin, as they seem to be stricter than PCGS. Here is an example of an NGC graded G-4 that has practically full reverse rims, and is very strong for the grade imho....
    http://coins.ha.com/common/view_item.php?Sale_No=1129&Lot_No=7714
    Find one like this!:)
     
  6. majorbigtime

    majorbigtime New Member

    You are on the right track. These are heavily faked, so go with a top tier TPG for sure.
     
  7. Owle

    Owle Junior Member

    1916-D Mercury Dimes

    I saw several in holders at a show today, plus one uncertified, and one I picked up in a Whitman folder with other mercury dimes. The "1916-D" I ran by a friend who put it under his stereo microscope and showed me comparison pictures of true "D" mint marks. The one I picked up was worn with the indentation inside the D not visible.

    Only buy the certified product.
     
  8. bqcoins

    bqcoins Olympic Figure Skating Scoring System Expert

    get one that is in a reputable tpg, get a G or better, don't pay a fortune, that is all.
     
  9. coincrazed1

    coincrazed1 New Member

    You know what guys? After careful considering and reconsidering, I do not think I should buy this coin after all. $850 is a WAD to spend on one single coin, especially since I do not own any key date coins in my collection. I think I am better off building a nice coin collection with $850 and buy a few nice key date coins that aren't as expensive. If I were Johnny (well I'm johnny too, my name is john, but I mean THE johnny) and had an UNBELIEVABLY MASSIVE collection like he does, then I would say "YEAH! I'LL BUY IT!". But since I do not own ANY key dates, I think I should build my collection before buying "the biggest and the best". There are LOTS of other nice, good, key date coins out there for a fraction of the cost, that may be better investments as well. As much as I want the 1916D Mercury Dime, if I buy it, I won't be able to add another key date to my collection for a LONG time, not to mention I won't be able to CRH. What do YOU guys think? - coincrazed
     
  10. Louie_Two_Bits

    Louie_Two_Bits Chump for Change

    I know many here will tell you to buy the key date coin first, because it will only get more and more expensive and more difficult to come by the longer you wait. But I don't have a lot to spend on coins, and would rather stretch my dollar on more coins. I'd much rather enjoy a collection of coins than a single coin.

    So my advice is to build your collection with the $850 and gradually save up for the 16D.

    Oh and what's CRH?

    -LTB
     
  11. abe

    abe LaminatedLincolnCollector

    If your leary about coughing up the bucks then I would wait. Don't get yourself in a bind...

    Forgot to ad, if you lost your job, would you still buy one? If the answer is no, then don't buy...
     
  12. mintmark-s

    mintmark-s Junior Member

    GOOD LUCK I am sure you will get ONE someday
    Hey I need too
     
  13. Pocket Change

    Pocket Change Coin Collector

    $850 for a key? Yes, that's important. Also consider that it's only a G-4. If I had that kind of money available, I'd do some research on semi-keys in high quality. For the money you're talking about, you could get a 31-D or 31-S merc in MS-66 condition.

    It depends what you're looking at - investment or just the numismatic satisfaction.


    Another thing to think about - especially with Mercs. For $850, you could go a real, real long ways on doing an XF/AU set! You'ld have to forgo the 21's and those 41/42 overdates. But you could probably do over half the others.

    Now as far as future value? Who knows which is best? And as someone said - "would you buy it if you lost your job?".

    I'm just throwing ideas out - I am not a savy coin investor!
     
  14. kanga

    kanga 65 Year Collector

    Take time to plan how you'd like your collection to grow.
    Of course you have to try to take into account a prediction about the size of your disposable income in the future.
    If you want a XF or better type set you don't choose the keys of each issue.
    If you want a Lincoln cent set in XF or better you go with what you can afford at the moment and wait for your income to catch up to SVDB prices with the understanding that they won't remain stagnant.
    If you THINK you would like to collect XF or better Mercs in the future then consider getting the keys now.

    My Merc set is not being actively collected.
    But a while ago I did a bit of future thinking.
    It currently consists of:
    - 1916-D in F-12
    - 1921 in Good (raw)
    - 1942/1 in AU-55
    - 1942/1-D in XF-45
    - 1941-1945 short set in MS (raw)
    - a few other slabbed and raw coins
    I may never go for a Merc set but if I do I've got a big jump start.
    And if I don't I've got still got value.
     
  15. johnny54321

    johnny54321 aspiring numismatist

    LOL....if you're referring to me as "the johnny", my collection is really quite small, flat out puny compared to a lot of folks on this board. Six Danscos, and that's pretty much it. I'm constantly selling stuff I don't want to help fund purchases that I do want. :kewl: Welcome to cointalk by the way, and I still think a 16-d would be an awesome acquisition for a youngster such as yourself...but you could do a lot with that money too. As long as its on coins, and not video games.:smile
     
  16. coincrazed1

    coincrazed1 New Member

    Louie, I agree. I'd MUCH rather have a collection than one single coin. And CRH stands for Coin Roll Hunting. Thanks for the advice! - coincrazed
     
  17. coincrazed1

    coincrazed1 New Member

    Thanks for all the advice you guys! - coincrazed
     
  18. coincrazed1

    coincrazed1 New Member

    I have never liked them. You want to know how to spell "video game"? BAD:

    Boring
    Absurd
    Dumb

    I'd much rather bury myself into my edition of The Official A.N.A. Grading Standards For United States Coins. Anyway, I may be going to a coin shop tomorrow, and I'm hoping on maybe getting a 1938D Liberty Walking half or a 1914S Barber quarter. I'll let you all know how I turn out if I go. - your friend, coincrazed
     
  19. I am a fan of the 1914S Barber quarter as a sleeper, although some will argue that it already woke up (especially if see you some of the prices out there). I have not been able to get a good enough deal on one yet but I am patiently waiting. :) TC
     
  20. Ltrain

    Ltrain New Member

    Nothing wrong with video games, great way to pass the time at work. Just because you don't like them doesn't mean they're boring, absurd, and dumb. It just means that you don't enjoy playing them.
     
  21. cerdsalicious

    cerdsalicious BigShot

    1916 D is an easy sell for most dealers. Even those slabbed, are hard to find.
    Regardless its not an easy buy. I have sold a ocuple handfuls but I specialize in carson city coins. I feel for me its better to ahve high end keys in my inventory even if they sit longer, since many dealers have lower end coins.
    So its up to you as the buyer but if its on to you i would suggest the AG3. they sit around for $500 typically and you can find them for less. NGC and PCGS slabs are best. If its ANACS expect to get one grade lower money for example if its VG6 ANACS offer to pay greysheet G4

    Best of luck on your purchases, enjoy the hobby and more importantly enjoy yourself!
     
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