1843 Large Cent-How Did I Do?

This came from the same person I got a 1914 D Buffalo Nickel for $3.00 from. This cost me $4.00. Did I do okay? Does it look good and is there anything about a possible variety? I ask because I am not schooled well on these. Most that I have are working man's coins I picked up here and there over many years and just eyeballed them quickly. Take a stab at a grade if you please. Thanks folks. Would appreciate @Jack D. Young input also and thank you.

 

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Oh gee, Tommy.... You got taken to the cleaners!...... FOUR BUCKS!?!?!! You must be living right, brother!

 

LOL. I know the 4 bucks is great as long as no one sees a problem with it being the real deal. It's too bad, she has no more coins and is just selling stamps.

 

Is that an RPD? 4 or am I just seeing things.

 

I think it is some lint or puppy hair. I looked it over pretty good. Puppy lays with me in bed where I sometimes work on my coins. Sounds strange but my back does better when I lay on my stomach.

 

@tommyc03 , looks like a direct match to my Dark Side collection example, and I paid $0 for it!



My attribution article:

https://coinweek.com/counterfeits/its-a-jungle-out-there-later-date-large-cent-counterfeits/

 

1843 Mature head, large letters fantastic price too

 

Oh no…… Say it ain’t so.

 

Hey, Jack
I did look up any variety I could find and didn't find that die chip in any publication.
Are these a new counterfiet?

 

All I'll say, tommy, is that if something seems too good to be true... it probably is.

 

Pretty recent @Pickin and Grinin ; they are getting better at the coloration and surfaces.

 

Nice!!not bad even as a +100 year old counterfeit for $4 you got a deal my 1946 henning was 5 cents,only counterfeit I own as I know of.

 

Not entirely sure what you mean here.... this counterfeit was made in China within the last couple of years. It has no intrinsic value beyond the few cents of copper. And he certainly can't resell it. If he's literally only trying to fill a hole in an album, maybe he got a deal? But, I'd say he got ripped off.

You got a henning in change? That's super freaking cool (although... you know, counterfeit... bad). Have you ever posted it? Link me.

 

If its any consolation, it cost more than $4 to do a load of laundry at the local CoinOp.

 

No, that is no consolation at all! I do about 2-3 loads of laundry a week (just for myself). I have two roommates (both girls... so they do more laundry than me). Assume 7-8 loads a week?

My Washer/Dryer cost ~$1500.

That means it paid for itself comparatively in 46 weeks... less than a year. Why would anyone even consider anything else as an option?

 

OK didn't know that,as a modern counterfeit then yes it's junk!!.

 

Some disagreed but I'm still pretty sure it is. https://www.cointalk.com/threads/1946-henning-nicke.393225/

 

Yes. I'm not sure if you've followed @Jack D. Young 's work, but he's done a lot research and tracking down modern so-called "super-counterfeits." These are the fakes that fool even PCGS and NGC, because they are so good. Almost all of them are made in China, and almost all within the last few years.

He's published quite a few articles with diagnostics for the ones he's identified. The fake shown by the OP is apparently one he's already familiar with, and has published an article on.

Jack is an absolute treasure in our hobby, and I hope he keeps up his excellent work!

 

You were robbed. Oh wait, you robbed them. Very nice @tommyc03

 

I have to say I'm a little torn on this one. On one hand that obverse die chip has me concerned. It does match the later pic and I couldn't recall any reference to it previously (though such a chip could exist without being noted by Newcomb or Grellman). On the other hand, if this is a China counterfeit they went to some pretty distant lengths to get it this good. The date appears to be placed correctly (based on the 1 and the 8) for either a N-6 or N-16, which frankly is pretty difficult to do. Almost all of the late date counterfeits I have seen can be spotted with the 1 & 8. Assuming it is/was legitimate, and since I didn't see any signs of repunching under the 1 I was leaning towards N-16. But, without the coin in hand, it's very difficult for me to feel certain on a variety on these late dates. All too often you really need to find some of the die scratches IMO and that can rarely be done from photographs. That said, the other concerning bit for me is the 8 & 4 - they are too close from everything I have seen. I pulled out the couple of 43's I have and neither have the 8 & 4 that close. In the end, I wouldn't buy this coin from a picture... In hand I might change my mind if I could match die scratches, but I don't think that would happen. Actually, for $4, I would but largely just to study and to keep someone else from buying it.

Regarding the later picture that has the same obverse die chip. Again, the date is placed quite well. The dentils are mushy (way too mushy too) but if you look at the placement of the 1 in relation to the dentils, specifically the vertical alignment, you see the date was placed in a different location. The 8 too is off. On the 1 placement this coin leans more towards N-5; however, the alignment of the curl to the 8 does not match N-5. It would align more towards 6 or 16. The last thing I noticed about both coins was the shape of the bust above 1. Both coins appear to have a flat surface that does not belong.

The last thing I'll add - I buy quite a few large cents from fleabay (though rarely late dates). Any coin I buy from fleabay is quickly checked and in the case of large cents I quickly pull out my books. If I can't match it to a known die variety then I would demand a refund. So far I haven't had to do that, but... most of the time I am able to determine before I bid in the first place.