Looks like a 1983–D D/D-DDR is that possible?

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Definitely not a DDR. The MM is split plate doubling.
Close up photos might help.
I don't see it.

 

1. Definitely not a DDR. The MM is split plate doubling.
   Close up photos might help.
   I don't see it.
   
   how do you enlarge the photos?
   

 

To quote someone it is easy to click on the quote or reply button at the bottom of each post.
You will have to take better photos then crop them. And post in full size.
If you are using a cell phone, Get the coin to fill the view screen w/out blurring the details, take photo strait on. Then crop what you want to post.

 

a couple quick things to improve your photos

1 - use a flat sheet of paper for the backing. Anything with a texture on it your camera on automatic will want to focus on the background. So something so close the image will be slightly fuzzy compared to the background.

2- try to diffuse your light - nothing direct. Bounce the light source off of a white piece of paper off to the side (or a white foam block, etc). practice and try to improve.

learn to use your phone's image editing functions. We don't know your phone, software installed, etc. Or if you use a computer learn to use some free software.

 

Not a DDO and not a D/D
Spend it.

 

@Ball722 …if you had weighed it, you would have confirmed it being a Zincoln, susceptible to not only split-plate doubling (worthless) but also other plating issues like blistering, uneven coating and rampant deterioration.

The MM question was answered by @Pickin and Grinin . What I want to know is:

What and where do you see doubling on the reverse?

When you post a coin and declare it to be a DDR you need to prove it. And, as you have been told previously, you need to compare your coin with those at VV or Wexler. preferably before you post.

Always post your pix “full image”. Learn to take clear, in-focus close-ups and convince us you have what you say you have…imo…Spark

 

Read, study, self-education is the key.

 

Not a DD but split plate doubling, very common on these since cents, especially the first few years. Too make photos larger after you have typed your thread but not hit the post button, hit one of the buttons near it that says FULL IMAGE, then hit the post button after it loads them. As for this cent, if you want an example of split plate doubling keep it, otherwise spend it.

 

@Ball722
The last few posts are all good words of wisdom..

 

Some suggested setup tips and background selection.

 

try white or black paper.
Those bright colors can create color casting (colored light reflects off of the paper on to the coin giving it a slight hue especially if the auto white balance of the device isn't so good) which will obscure the true color of your coin.

FYI, the lighting and focus on the blue postit one is far better than the other two. The other two you can see it slightly out of focus. One can see on the blue how the light is more even/ balanced across the entire coin whereas the other two you see unbalanced lighting making it easy to think you see something that is not there.




Many times on harsh light it will reflect off the edges making one think it's a double die in that area.

With harsh lighting you can see the edge of the head and back is obscured by the bright reflection


and with harsh lighting one can think they see doubling, when all it is the light reflection on a few close surfaces. That's why ppl rotate coins around so much as the harsh lighting is deceiving one. An image with balanced (diffused) lighting really only needs one straight on image to see everything.

 

Yes. The point of the colors is to show that with the same settings details can be washed. Often we see patterns in backgrounds here that are amongst the worst backgrounds to pick. White is generally a tough background especially for newbies since it reflects the light, which is also improperly metered. Black is best, but not always optimal, especially where the color of the coin factors in.

 

I use a CD holder with a black sunglasses cloth with a slit over the spindle. Topped off with the soft part of a Velcro dot to balance the coin on. You can see it in this photo. This gets the camera focus in the right place. If you can use the lowest f-stop, lowest ISO, lowest shutter speed, and use the self portrait timer so you are not touching the camera or the coin when the shutter snaps. Good lighting also helps.

Then crop the photo to remove the background as much as possible.

 

I took the black felt packing from when I bought a new computer and use that in my shoebox setup. Flat black and works in most instances. But for quick photos, I might use whatever is on hand at the moment. Nice photos above!

 

The ones you got are large enough, there's nothing there.

 

When I use indirect lighting for proofs and such I put a block between the light and the coin so only the light bouncing from the pane of glass hits the coin and direct light doesn't hit the coin and reflect up into the camera lens like you are getting on the rim of the Rosie above his head.

 

Neat trick! I’ll try it and let you know. I double up on the white packing material but I wasn’t able to eliminate the glare in spots. I hadn’t thought about creating the block but it makes sense.

 

Some

That's why most of us use Golf ball over the LED's to deffen the light.