My two cents

This 2 cent piece is in very nice shape, it's red brown but shows more brown in the scans. I know die cracks are common for earlier coins but this one has a number of issues including some doubling. Use the link to see some close up's and tell me what you think. Thanks http://photos.strikingsnake.com/FullScreenPhoto.aspx?gallery=331731&photo=10878439

 

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Nice looking 2 center there. Lots going on, cuds on the obverse, can't see the date clear enough to determine any doubling there. Lots of cracks, on the reverse the cracks would lead me to consider the KF-L2-DDO first for attribution.

 

The date dose not show much doubling, mostly the 2 and the lettering. Where would I find info on the attributions ?

 

Still need to see a close up of date, its not KF-L2-DDO...

 

I have added a close up of the date to the link. http://photos.strikingsnake.com/FullScreenPhoto.aspx?gallery=331731&photo=10904164

 

I could of missed something, but I don't see no matches. Looks more like MD to me. Maybe someone with more info will chime in...

 

The best reference for you would be "Getting Your Two Cents Worth" by Kevin Flynn. I think this book is a must for the serious two cent collector.
Look here---http://kevinjflynn.com/coinsnbooks_books.html at the bottom of the page, it's about $20

 

I guess I do not understand the significance of the date dose the KF-L2-DDO refer to a DD date of some rarity? Dose this coin fit any other attribute? I really posted it because of the multiple issues doubling, cud, major die cracks and die polishing marks. Thanks again

 

My first look at the book and your pics lead me to consider the L2-DDO first. In the text on page 31 Flynn notes:

"Obverse:
Date Punch: Thick Date

Doubling: Class IV Offset Hub Doubling with the second hubbing in the direction of 4 o'clock
Doubling can be seen above IN, to the west of GOD and the right arrow tip. Doubling can be seen at other places but not as clear.
Diagnostics:
1. Die crack from the rim to the right base of the 4
2. Small die crack from the ball to the top of the 1 through the left feathers to the botton left leaves
3. Small die crack from left arrow tip through IN
4. Small diecrack through the botton of GOD
5. Die crack from the rim thrugh the top of the final T of TRUST, through the right arrow tip into the field.

Reverse:
Complete D 0% Rotation
Diagnostics:
1. Die crack from the rim through UNITE
2. Die crack from the D of UNITED to the rim
3. Die crack thrugh STATE
4 Die crack through O of OF to the rim"

 

This is the first one I thought of too, but the KF-L2-DDO has the date closer to the rim than the ball. This date is closer to the ball...

 

Nice AU brown with cud errors / faulty die strike to coin surface,sometimes caused by over/under polishing coining die... a real keeper

 

I agree Abe, what are you thinking? Maybe a L17 or L20? I couldn't match up the reverse die cracks on those two. Looking at Kliman's book I'd put the Obverse as a 15 and Reverse as 30U. Take a look and post what you think.

 

Thanks for all of the input, in the interest of the condition and grade I have included 2 more images with more accurate color than my scanner produced.

 

Thanks PennyGuy, everything in the description you posted matched right up.

 

If your referring to L-2 thats not it... I seriously can't find a match...

 

Thanks Mike, Abe has an excellent point, in another good Two Cent book by Mryon Kliman ("The Two Cent Pice And Varieties") these coins are classified first by noting the position of the date numerals to the ball at the bottom of the shield and the rim of the coin. Your coin seems to match up to the L2-DDO except that the date is clearly nearer the ball than the rim. If Abe gets a chance he can look at the other two possibilities I noted.

Edited to add: Abe, I was typing my response when your responded. What do you think of L17 or L20?

 

I don't see L-17 or 20 matching. The only oddity that I see in the date is in the lower loop of the 8 on the left appears to be a die chip or possibly some doubling. L-2 seems to be the best match exept for the distance of the date to ball and rim, plus the 1 and 4 are equal to the rim on L-2 and Mikes 1 is closer to the rim... my eyes are gettin tired...

 

nice coin!!

 

I can say the reverse is a 100% match and would be glad to post the detail, but the front dose have some different qualities. I do see the crack from the arrow tip through the " IN " but can not explain the date position. I would think it unlikely they would use a different die for the front with a crack in the same position.