is there multiple DDO for the 1916/16 Buffalo nickel

So I have heard there are more than one major DDO for the 1916/16 buffalo nickel
Does anyone have a link to the other varities?
Or photos?
I found one a year ago that fits the 16/16.

I am sure there should be other ones as well, if so iI am itnerested in completing a set of the 1916/16 DDO varities...

Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks

 

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not to my knowledge, and that I have ever read.


But, I am sure that Doug will correct me! [LOL]

 

....i'm a big fan of pictures. :kewl:

 

Okay
Well I am using http://grading-guide.com/variety_buffalo.html
for refernce to the double die.
Now the one I found last year matches up perfectly.
The one I have now was cleaned at some point with something acidic. It raised all the numbers but makes it harder to identify if its a double die.
The 9 matches up, there is a chunk in the loop of the 9 and another below the loop at the upper part of stem.
there are the connecting pieces between the 9 and the 1, the 1 and the 6
So far so good.
Now the problem is the 6 has some mechanical doubling, at the same time it has what I am presuming to be a doublie die (The mechanical is white and doesnt have much definiton, the part I am considering to be the double die area, is sharp, its raised like if its aprt of the die but parts of it are missing)
So the issue is I can see what I believe to be doubling of the 6 within the 6 itself. However the only difference is mine isnt shifted to the nrth west as much as the other, its shifted to the west the same but not to the north. Could this be due to mechanical doubling?
I need to get a macro setup to help me out.

From the way the mechanical doubling is it seems the strike slipped south.
Could this explain why its position is off?
Someone save me from my wandering mind...

 

....ditto the dougster.

 

local Coin Shop Said its not the 1916/16. They said its not consistent and without the outer loop it doesnt match up. Also the underlying 6 appears to be a cursive 6.
However they are going through all my 1916 Buffs that I have and theyre going to see if I got any DDO.
Ill post back within an hour or two when I know.

 

Mechanical doubling? I will have to look into this and how it differs from the obvious doubling of 1916 or well known 1955 Lincoln.

New to coins, new to board, but I guess my main question would be doubling on date vs lettering around the coin-in this case "LIBERTY" on the obverse of the 1916 Buff.

Reading a article in Coin World, I noticed the price this coin can bring. Selling a collection for a friend with property tax on 3 homes and out of work, it would be a nice bonus.
I knew I had this coin. Of course,I wanted to locate and take a close look.
It seemed there was some doubling on the date OR perhaps it 'appeared' after too long of look. (a common syndrome I would think)

Looking later at a photo I noticed the obvious, strong doubling on the word "LIBERTY". Searching the net I see this does NOT exist on the 1916/16. and took me to this post.

I will post pic Monday and only wish the owner of this collection would have read this board~over 150 coins, nearly all polished/heavily scratched.(I pictured gramps in his old age, a monthly routine of keeping all his coins shiny) Tough news for someone who received over the phone quote of collection :headbang:

Cheers,
AHS

 

this site should help you AHS

http://www.coingalaxy.com/coininfo/doubling.html :thumb:

 

Thanks Grizz, I recall the term "poor mans double die" and this is what I suspected. I did do some searching and found similar site.

I also should have started my own thread, this is why I did not post picture ect. Being new to coins my head goes fuzzy when I 'what if' on such a potential high value coin.

Is there much of a premium on this type?? Ebay is only place I noticed and you can imagine the song & dance.

Sorry for the hijack, but did think other readers may be interested in worth/cost.

 

Doug I think the type he's asking about is mechanical/machine doubling and not the true doubled die. That's the way I understood it anyway.

 

This is GREAT! It is far better than many other sites which attempt to do the same thing, but left me confused.

 

The squared edges and flattened areas are usually part of a written description and not paired with Photos with Arrows. Also, a better description of the terms primary and secondary strikes. Then the breakout of different types of Mechanical Doubling are given with similar photos with pointers. The other sites usually get very dismissive of Mechanical Doubling as soon as you determine it is not the Doubled Die.

I like learning about more than just whether is a valuable doubling or not.

 

Well a quick search on this site will give you a lifetime of information on every kind of doubling known to man.

One quick tip - the mechanical/machine type doubling is generally very common. It happens on every series all the time - that is just one reason it's not as valuble.
True double dies on the other hand are not that common and valued because they are "doubled" dies. The mint made the die itself that way. It is a doubled die before it ever strikes a coin. Then when it does we can study that die, it's life (die stages), the coins struck from it and when it's retired, early or late, that is the only doubled die of that specifict kindand date/mint that will ever be made.

Think about it this way fro a moment.
You can lossen the luggs holding the dies and produce all the mechanical coins you want or push against the dies with something heavy. You can do nothing to produce doubled dies other than be the die maker at the mint at the time dies are being produced.

One the mint made, (doubled dies).
The other the equipment became loose or whatever and was quickly resolved by tighnening a bolt.

 

At this point, this is the descending scale of doubling from what I can gather.

1. Reingraving/Repunched Detail - This is not technically a doubling, but produced many of the early mint products where dies were individually made.

2. Hub making error - Similar to the above, but mistake made while making the Hub, rather than the Die.

3. Reworked Hub - Again, not doubling per say, but produced some cross mintmark coins as hub dies were retooled for different mints.

4. Double Hubbing - This is what most consider the Doubled Die and is caused by misalignment of the hub used to make the Dies.

5. Mechanical Doubling

6. Double Striking

7. Zinc Spread? Doubling

8. Holder Doubling - Not really doubling, but appears to be because of the reflective properties of the holder, especially during photography.

Is this a good synopsis? I know it's not nearly complete.