Do you think this monster toner is worth the premium?

Nope. Not even close. Not really my thing but some are attractive. This one is not one of those. JMHO

 

Log in or Sign up to hide this ad.

I fully agree with all those on here who pronounced it ugly, the obverse in particular.

 

Reverse—attractive
Obverse—hideous.

Premium? I would not own it at any cost.

 

No. And evidently no one else thought so either.

 

I am not sure of the toning. There are too many ways to artificially tone a coin. I just do not trust toned coins. JMO
Semper Fi

 

i'd pass on this coin just ugly

 

I actually like the coin. I'm not sure why the obverse is getting so much hate, it isn't crazy but it's far from the worst I've seen. I think what creates the real skepticism here is the price tag on a toned, slabbed coin you can only see (and buy) from internet pictures. Is it worth 4x FMV? Is it even an MS66? Not sure about the latter, but a solid 'NO' on the former. There may be toned coins that quadruple their value, but this ain't one of them.

That all said, the coin hasn't sold at the listed price, and may never will. Time will tell I suppose.

 

I guess I just have poorly developed tastes. I look at it and all I can see is a sneeze-spray pattern.

 

Peace dollars with multi-color toning on both sides are few-and-far-between; toning--if present--usually progresses from a pale gold to russet. For the collector looking for a multi-color Peace Dollar this one certainly is, BUT, if only the coloring of the Reverse were on the Obverse, this might have received an offer for a premium above the PCGS retail of $500 as a BIN or Auction; at $1,795 that is an outrageous ask for a common MS-66 with what many consider ugly Obverse toning.

As for how this coin got that toning? As we know, toning occurs on silver alloy coins from the presence of sulfur compounds, either in the air or sealed environment (e.g. mint cello packaging, slab, coin tube), or from direct contact with a sulfur-laden material (e.g. coin roll, coin album). Toning is also accelerated by exposure to warmth and/or moisture.

For Morgan Dollars, the Mint used a dusting of powdered sulfur on the canvas bags to help prevent rats from gnawing the bags in search of food (and thereby affecting the integrity of the sealed Bag) and many of these bags were kept in Mint/Treasury vaults and commercial bank vaults for decades, and these locations were often hot, and moisture-laden leaving quite a few of the coins with colorful toning on one or both sides. I could not find a citation for the use of sulfured canvas bags for the Peace Dollar series, but commercial banks often kept rolls of Peace Dollars and these did pick up toning from the sulfites used to make the wrapper, and when stored in the older non air-conditioned banks for decades did often tone the coins (mainly peripheral toning a.k.a. target toning).

Most of the 1923 issue was--according to Q. David Bowers--kept in Treasury vaults until about 1945 when many bags were released through large commercial banks (especially in Chicago).

 

Well, there seems to be a consensus on this particular coin, & some great general comments. Perhaps a deeper answer to your question is whether or not some of us would pay a premium for a toner.

Some of us (myself especially) do not intentionally collect toned coins, albeit, some of them can be very attractive. It's similar to "buy the coin, not the slab". Now, do I have some toners?...yes! Just as I have purchased coins because of the slab (some of the really old, or first generation slabs are awesome in themselves).

And some intentionally collect "sets" of only toned coins, so they may be more willing to pay a premium. There appears to be no shortage of buyers.

But that's the beauty of this hobby...it's very personal to each collector!

 

As someone who has actually attempted to assemble a set of rainbow toned Peace Dollars, I can attest to how difficult it is to find coins like this. When you factor in that the coin has a premium gem grade with an price guide value of $500, it shouldn't surprise anyone that this coin yielded a price north of 3X price guide.

If you think this coin is ugly, then you aren't a toning enthusiast. Personally, I love everything about this coin, and it reminds me of my MS64 1922.

 

I bought a set of 10 1921 Morgans quite a while ago. I didn't know that much about them and I thought they looked nice. I bought them off the HSN and paid too much, but I was new. I inherited about 20 other Morgans, some are nice and some are scratched, but I liked them. I have bought a few through ebay and for the most part, I feel like I got my money's worth. Anyway, those 10 1921 have some slight toning on the edge the the obverse and reverse. They look nice, but I'm not an expert. I don't have anything to take pictures, let alone, pictures that show the toning. Thankfully, they don't look like that coin pictured above, ever tho it is graded an MS64. We all have an idea of what we like and even though the coin pictured has been given the MS64, I don't like it.
I do have one question though. Can the toning be removed without damaging the coin? If I do anything to my Morgans, it will be with someone certified to do that kind of work.

 

If your silver coins are toning, and it bothers you, consider storing them in Air-Tite capsules, available at many coin supply stores.
Light toning is usually easy to remove with a chemical dip and knowledge of the proper procedure. In general, the more advanced the toning, the riskier it is to attempt to remove it.

 

Jim, In reality the toning is a chemical change on the surface of the coin, it is part of the coin. So any removal of toning will remove part of the coin surface. What will be the effects is hard to predict, but the more time/chemical strength of the substance used affects the outcome. The instructions that comes with the solution usually do not mention this, they want you to use full strength, but it can be diluted with distilled water for a one time use, as any used should be discarded rather than put back into the bottle. The less the strength the more time you have to observe what is happening. I usually start with 1part chermical : 9 parts distilled water, This gives a very slow reaction ( swirl every so often)and you can easily stop it , rinse, dry. and then re-submerge it if it needs more. I just mix enough to cover the coin plus a little more with EZ-EST or other dip. Just remember you can't reverse it.
If the coin has been dipped before, the surface ridges may have already been reduced and doing it once again may remove the tarnish, but it will appear flat in shine, no cartwheels. So each coin may have a different chance and result. Best to limit it for coins less than $______what you can afford. Jim

 

I am not surprised at the "Premium" $.

 

Yawn

 

I think that it scores high on the originality level. I don't see much beauty in the one side and don't think I would buy it if offered to me for even half the price.
An in hand look at the coin might change my mind.