It was surprisingly easy - I googled it and it helped that this ANACS slab has the inset on each side, I just used a flat head screwdriver to waggle back and forth and create pressure along the seams up and down each side until it cracked, then pulled it apart with my fingers. I'm curious if this details SLQ is an 18-S/17 overdate (which our collection lacks) so I'm going to get a professional opinion on same. I'm also curious if Conservation can do anything about those spots on the reverse. Have you cracked out coins for submissions? How did it go? Here's before and after:
One of the diagnostics of the 18/17 is a die clash at Liberty's knee, which all examples show, even in lower grades... I don't see that clash on your coin. As far as the black spots go, you could try soaking the coin in acetone, then prodding the spots with a toothpick. If they come loose, they were organic gunk, if not, toning.
You’re only looking at the top of the last digit. The overdate is clear down the right side of that last digit making it fairly straight.
Thanks for the info on cracking an ANACS slab. I just received my 1948 key Canada Half dollar and was wondering how I would do this.
I respect and appreciate the opinions and insights offered, and I readily concede that it may not be an 18-S/17 overdate - ANACS or another collector would very likely have identified it accordingly as this is a well known and sought after anomaly, but the 8 appears to have the 7 top and the lower inset for the 8 is narrowed in a manner that appears like the overdate. John is probably on to something with the knee - that's good to know - but I don't mind paying $10 to have it assessed by some professionals who will have it in hand. At worst, I still have the same coin I paid a Details 18-S price for, in a different slab. I'm also curious if ICG will grade it differently. My efforts are entirely for fun and self-education.
I like @lordmarcovan method... stick it between the boards of his deck and step on it lol... (we got a video of this up somewhere lol)
Regarding the crud on the reverse, John Anthony's suggestion of acetone + toothpick would be the way to go, in addition to a cotton Q-tip for gentle wiping away of the loosened material. I'd avoid anything more aggressive than that. However, in my somewhat limited experience with crud clumps (if that is what they are) the metal underneath may be affected permanently. At the very least, you'll probably still be able to see where the crud was, since those areas will not have toned the same as the rest of the exposed surfaces.
