I am trying to document my collection by adding an obverse and reverse photograph to each coin in my spreadsheet program. There are several ways to approach this. The best photograph out of a series, it could end up being an enhancement; One that is typical to the eye at an extension of approximately 18 inches and no more than 5x power; or one that shows up the negative features in the coin, so my heirs can more easily spot these problems. I would like to hear from others how they choose their pictures. Obviously the type of lighting plays a big part as well as the amount of it, plus the angle. Currently I'm shooting with auto focus on and in super macro mode. I use a shadow box with my choice of one or two 50 watt Halogen floods. I take about 10 to 12 photos of each side while changing the angle of lighting. What is your recommendation for the type of shot to use? If you have other suggestions, please share them.
My goal with respect to coin photos is always to capture the coin as it looks in hand. In order to be a successful photograph, I must capture detail, luster, and color. Since the majority of my collection consists of toned coins, capturing the color as it appears in hand is often difficult. However, my photographic method is surprisingly consistent. I use a cheap copy stand, a Nikon D90 DSLR with a Sigma 105mm Macro lens, two gooseneck lamps positioned at 10 & 2 o'clock, and two florescent light bulbs. The only real adjustment I use is the angle of the coin. I place an object ranging from a quarter to an NGC slab under the bottom of the slab I am photographing. The angle used for each coin is based on trial and error. However, I don't ever remember taking more than 5 photos of any one coin before being satisfied with the results. Here are some examples of my work. While it took me years to get good, I now find most coins rather easy to photograph. Practice, practice, practice.
Very nice images Lehigh96. :smile I also try to select the images that best give a true sense of the color and lustre of the coin. I also prefer toners. I've found that when taking images at an angle, you lose lustre but gain color. It's a tough tradeoff. I continue to take shots until I have the best mix of the two:
lehigh96 and leeg; At what distance would you guess your coin is actually from the lens? Just enough to fill the viewfinder? Or do you shoot from further away and then electronically magnify it? What about diffusing the light source?
Just Guessing I'm Just Guessing. But I'm guessing, that when one has the coin in hand, the first thing they do is move it around to see it in a "different light". Taking one static image that reveals everything, all at once, is the road to maddness. Like a Playboy foldout, I know I have taken images of a coin that made me wish it really looked like the photo. Then 2 minutes later snapped the same coin's image and blushed to know I have not just put it in a tip jar. I think the fun is in the pursuit and the quest for honesty.
You must keep the camera as far away from the coin as possible in order to allow the light to reach the surface of the coin. I usually have mine about 12 inches above the coin and then zoom in with the camera. Using diffused lighting completely eliminates any appearance of luster. I only use it when shooting proof coins or trying to capture color on a tough mint state coin. I have written a previous thread about using diffused lighting. http://www.cointalk.com/t56246/
lehigh69, Thanks for that thread. I'm going to try and order Mark Goodman's book through a larger book store. I have read the first thread and will check out the second one mentioned in it. I will also try backing off the coin a bit. I'm probably shooting at only an inch or two. I have a wide angle lens so I can still get the coins full circumference in the shot. Because it is centered, I have not seen any distortion at the edges or the corners of the photo. Sure lets you see things you didn't realize were there.
