Started coin collecting with son not long ago and bought a coin microscope to enjoy the fun with him. Taking a closer look at one of the better toned Wheaties we had, it appears this 1956 could be real deal DDO. Can't find much info regarding a DDO for 1956 though. Any thoughts from the more experienced out there.
Hi Ryan - what you are seeing there is Mechanical Damage caused when there's a wobble in the equipment during the strike. Folks use MD for shorthand. Have a look at this link - Wexler's Coins and Die Varieties (doubleddie.com) Keep looking though. And don't forget to check for Repositioned Mint Marks/Repunched Mint Mark (RPMs), especially for that date and mint mark.
Thanks for your feedback Kevin. I did consider MD as possibility, as true 56 DDO would be basically unheard of. I had to wonder a bit though, as numbers / letters don't seem flattened out much if any and appear to hold original size integrity. Also, 'L' in Liberty and '5' in date seem to be thicker than normal. 'L' also maybe offset some. Doesn't seem to be typical MD strike, but like I said I'm still pretty much a newbie and maybe getting hopes up like most of us. Just know enough to be questionable and maybe find that unfound gem.
I was thinking it was a little different myself. The outer devices are less affected than the inner devices. Often times, MD favors the outer devices.
Also find that internal to B and R on liberty there is doubling.. I would think it would only be one side or another for MD. Not internal and external, as well as Liberty and date.
I believe you are correct. The outer devices seem to show it the most, but you do find extreme examples of MD where the profile of the bust is also affected. With millions/billions of opportunities, the configurations are seemingly limitless. But my advice is that if you see something that strikes you odd, pursue it until you have resolution. I had a 1995 1DO-002 that struck me odd, and I picked it up a few times before tossing it back into circulation. I only figured out what I had when it was long gone...and too late.
Those are some nice photos. Md can happen on all devices down to a few devices. It is always flat and shelf like.
Thank you for all opinions regarding coin, as I'm at a bit of loss since double dying and double layering don't seem common on this cent. Seems to be a bit of an oddity maybe.
Well @paddyman98 is working on his ZZZ's right now. The term is Doubled Die. This is when the die is reduced to the size of a working die the letters and numbers are doubled, in High Relief. I am not sure what you mean with double layering? MD mechanical doubling, machine doubling is a mechanical malfunction during the striking process. Not a feature of the die like DD.
Copy.. and I am not trying to disagree with anything. Just provided photos of coin and get thoughts. Thought there might have been multiple examples of DDO between date and Liberty. Honestly not pushing anything on community, just want some thoughts.
If you look at the photo of "Liberty" on yours , the shadow on the side of the Y is significantly deeper than the shadow for the part that is the doubling. That is because it is flatter than the original. Here is my 55/55 DDO, and you can see that the surfaces tend to blend together which means they are the same height ( same depth of the inverse die face). Sometimes the depth of the 2nd punching is not as close and more of a separation is visible, but usually not as flat as the 56. IMO, Jim
Just put it in a flip, write what you have determined it to be. Spend some time here reading with your kiddo, I have found missed RPM's, variety's, interesting die states and errors among my earliest collections.
There is no Dye used in the minting of coins Here is some useful information to understand what a Doubled Die is.. https://doubleddie.com/58222.html Your 1956 Cent is not a Doubled Die variety. Welcome to CoinTalk
Welcome to CT @Ryan R and son. You seem to have done your homework and have good logic about your coin, but it is difficult to tell about doubling until you have trained your eye through experience. Keep up the studies, especially the Wexler site that others have linked. Being new to CT, I'd like to add the following, just to help those of us that try to help from photographs. For the best results, you should post "in focus," FULL IMAGE photos (after you upload your photo, two buttons appear: Thumbnail and Full Image, click Full Image and your photo appears full size on your post and are easily enlarged by clicking on it). Photograph coins on neutral backgrounds like black, grey, or white. Crop out superfluous background so just the coin shows (you can use https://www.remove.bg for free), and post photos with correct orientation so members don't have to turn their computer in some awkward fashion to view it properly. While it isn’t always necessary, it is nice to show both the obverse and reverse, even if your question is just about one side. Members can often give more valuable information having both sides to evaluate. Add close ups of areas you have questions about and make your questions as definitive as possible so we know what you are asking for. And try to have the best lighting possible to show the most favorable photo of the coin. Hope this helps in the future. Good luck.
