Numismatography

The Numismatography Thread

After a few recent requests, I thought I'd start a thread for great photos of coins, or even coin-related images. If you have questions or comments about numismatography, you can post them here and perhaps somebody will answer your questions. If 'numismatography' is not in your dictionary, perhaps it's time for a new dictionary. This is a Conder Token in Gem condition: )



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Sorry I cant find the non watermarked version but will look for it.

 

Matt told me one time that it is important that your photograph accurately depict what the coin really looks like (or you will get returns & loose customers).

 

When I saw the title of the thread, I knew this had to either be LarryMo, or the Bleeper.

Good to see ya!

 

Direct lighting and axial lighting

Thanks, for responding, folks. It's nice to see a few postings already. : )

While it's true that photos should look exactly like coins look in hand, there is an additional fact involved. The photographer's lighting may not be the same as a buyer's, so when the buyer examines a coin, they may see something a bit different from listing photos.

For example, if a buyer examines a coin while tipping it toward the light, they may see more toning or iridescence than appeared in listing photos. If I were to sell a coin with great toning, I have two ways of emphasizing its toning...

• I could photograph the coin at an angle so it reflects the lighting. The problem with photographing coins at an angle is that it is difficult to get all of the coin in sharp focus, given the limitations of depth-of-field inherent with macro lenses, or the macro setting available on some point-and-shot cameras.

• I can use axial lighting which allows me to photograph the coin straight-on. Axial lighting brings out toning better than direct room lighting.

If I were to sell a coin and use axial lighting, I would also provide photos taken in direct lighting. That way, the buyer will likely see both views and their impressions from seeing the listing photos will be confirmed. Coins certainly do not appear the same in all lighting. : )

Here's an example, and both methods of lighting reflect the 'truth,' but they certainly have different appearances. These are unretouched images of my Conder Token.

Normal lighting




Axial lighting




Since beautifully toned coins can sell at 2-30 times book value, I think it's important to show the toning as well as possible in listing photos. In good photos, natural toning will generally be obvious and appear far different from artificially toned coins. Numismatography can help one learn a lot about toning. I believe that someday eye appeal will surpass rarity as the key to value. Digital cameras and the internet are making that begin to happen already. ; )

 

numismatography might be my new favorite word;


Here is one of my better photos taken recently:

 

Great thread, Larry ! Thanks.

Can you expound more on what you mean by axial lighting ?

 

One of my favorites I had this one framed

 

Nice photo's and great coins I see

 

Comments on Axial Lighting

I am really enjoying the images posted so far. Very nice, everybody. leeg is right about the two Ott-Lites for slabbed coins,and I'd almost bet his coin is in a slab. : )

To 900fine... A search on "Axial lighting" will show you more about it and when I have time, I'll post photos of the device I made for axial lighting of coins. It's more compact than many setups. Basically, light is reflected off a glass set at an angle. Part of the light passes through the glass, but the other part of the light is reflected directly downward at the coin. The camera shoots through the glass (no problem), and it appears as though the light is coming directly from the lens.

For proof coins, a slight adjustment of the angle of the glass can take you from white fields to black fields. Watch through the camera as you adjust the angle of the glass. These were some early photos I took using my axial lighting device, perhaps two years ago. Today, I sometimes supplement the axial lighting with a bit of direct lighting or diffused lighting. It depends upon the coin and is not an exact science in my mind. Highly replicable exact positions for the glass might be desirable if photographing, many coins for item listings. It hs been several years since I sold any coins. ; )

While digging through PhotoBucket for the coin images, I ran across this image sent to me by a friend. It shows how he set up the axial device I made for him. I have provided one to another friend as well. My first version was made from two frames which I hinged back to back. The version in the photo has a picture frame on top and a piece of 3/4" curly maple for its base.









NOTES: The little 'baton' shown in the axial setup is a piece of dowel rod which has a gooey substance on its ends. That gooey stuff is made by Henley, but is sold by a variety of distributors and is called DAP™ Fun-Tak, or Loctite™ Mounting Putty, or similar.

Sometimes I use intense lighting and must shield my eyes from the light. If shooting straight down at the coin (recommended, since a bubble level can be placed first on the surface where the coin will rest on a 3" to 4" piece of black velvet, the in the future only needing to place the bubble level on the back of the camera. Having both surfaces level is important and obviates the need for a copy stand.

I sometimes use the device on the leaf of my desk where the light is located also, or in the top drawer or the second drawer of my desk. I'd rather vary the setup to bring out the best in a coin, and being somewhat creative, I like to vary my approach. There are many 'correct' ways to take good photos.

I can adjust the settings on my Nikon D300 from my computer if I wish, and for the most controlled approach, it's wise not to touch the camera. But after the initial glee of having Live View and camera adjustments available on the computer, I don't use it much any more. If I were selling images to others, I might establish a set routine. But I usually 'shoot from the hip' and get decent results.

I buy pieces of glass to fit the 5x7 upper frame. I have the best float glass that I can find, and the glass shop is three blocks from home. I have the glass 'seamed and polished' to eliminate all sharp edges. I am on Coumadin and wanted to reduce the chance of cutting myself, even though I am very familiar with glass. Dad was a glassblower for a neon sign company in his earlier years in Chicago, and I worked occasionally as a glazier, doing piecework on weekends, and glazed up to 200 lites/panes per day with window frames removed from their openings on a construction project, a subdivision .

You'll want to cover the tripod upright with black velvet, too, since being brightly lit by the light which passes through the glass, the glass can reflect light from the tripod upright into the camera, so it should be covered prior to shooting with axial lighting.

This is the 'short course.' ; )

Obviously high grade optical glass would be even better, but I have had no problems and photos do not appear to have been taken through an extra piece of glass, canted at an angle. It still amazes me.

 

Thanks for starting this thread. :thumb:


Some super images so far. :hail:


I think it's important for folks to know the camera and lens used for the images shown. This was taken with a Nikon D3000 Camera and Tamron 90mm Lens. I use two 13W OTT-LITES and a HD Copystand.



PCGS MS66

 

This was copied from a previous thread:

Remember this toy where you roll the ball through the maze? You can use it to accurately adjust the coin’s angle when positioning your camera & lighting. A picture is worth more than 1000 words.

Very best regards,
Collect89

P.S. That is my first 35mm SLR in the picture.
Attached Thumbnails





Read more: http://www.cointalk.com/t56856/#ixzz0gSh5fl1m
Read more: http://www.cointalk.com/t56856/#ixzz0gSh5jn1t

 

This was also copied from a previous post:

Let me explain how I made my first light diffuser. I took a piece of drafting paper (thin translucent paper) and curled it into a tube about 5" diameter & 11" long. I just placed this tube over the coin & shot the camera down the tube. You shine your light(s) onto the outside of the tube so that the light radiates from all directions onto the coin inside. It is a really cheap & affective light diffuser.

There are really nice parabolic shaped light diffusers available but the piece of drafting paper is cheap.

Very best regards,
collect89

Read more: http://www.cointalk.com/t44293-2/#ixzz0gSidVnx9

 

That's a great idea, Collect. Thanks! I'm gonna give that a try.

 

I really appreciate it when a seller (or a collector!) takes the time to post multiple images that reveal color and reflectivity. Here's my own effort with an 1806 British penny.

 

The "Remember the Alamo" coin is really pretty. Is it a commerative? I was curious what a coin like this might sell for - The toning is special.

 

My best attempt little out of focus

 

Thank You. It is a Classic Commemorative. The PCGS Price Guide has this priced @ $325. A coin with color and proof like surfaces like this one will run more than that. The Texas has several dates and mint marks. If your patient you can find a nice one for fair money.


Here is some info about the Texas Centennial Half Dollar:


http://www.coinsite.com/content/Commemoratives/Texas.asp