This is probably the worst one. It has glue and marker. I know the glue will come off with the lens restorer and will shine the entire slab to look new. I've done a lot of these. I just never had sharpie on one.
Ok so I got the rattlers. They all had the sharpie. This was the worst. The 3rd picture indicates 2 trouble spots. The lens restorer finally got them. I then use 1 drop to polish the rest of the areas to make it shine. I then have another trouble area and this time I took one alcohol prep pad to it. It only took a couple light rubs to get it. Then I polished the area to get it perfect. Nothing to it. The sharpie disappeared no problem btw!
I see lots and lots of fine scratches in the "after" shots. I still think you would've gotten everything cleared up with the alcohol wipe alone.
It takes a couple polishes to get it looking nice. Yes that one got scratched some. The alcohol wipe would probably have been better to get the bigger stuff. Then just a shine on it. I have another one with a long scratch across the obverse i am working on. It is so deep i don't think it'll come all the way out. I have it looking decent after a few times. Then there's a couple more smaller ones. I put all mine in a ziploc as soon as they get here. So they don't rub against each other or anything else.
I could care less about a scratched-up slab. I think people can still discriminate scratches on the slab from the coin, so it wouldn't be a problem, right? Unless you're trying to clean it up for photography purposes, in which case the scratches could be a problem...
In hand you don't see much of that. Under certain light at certain angles you do when magnified with the lens. It works better on the coin area because you can go in a circular motion. That one got more because those stubborn spots were just that. I think the glue reacted with the plastic. The one I used the wipe on still had a spot where the glue was. All these areas were on the reverse at the top in the end. And the coins inside, very nice. Which is what really matters to me.
You might want to try 91% isopropyl alcohol, rather than the 70%, simply because it's more pure. Analogy would be the use of nail polish remover compared to pure acetone for other coin cleaning purposes.
91% is a better solvent, but also probably more likely to damage susceptible plastics. The "impurity" in 70% is just water, and not harmful. If I had both, I'd probably try 70% first, then 91% if that didn't give the results I wanted. I don't have 99% (electronics grade) on hand, or I'd use that as a last resort.
There are 4. I'll post them separately. First, the 1973 S MS65. I found these 4 in a coin store in Massachusetts. Paid 88 with shipping for the 4. The second image is the reverse before.
This is the stubborn one. You don't see any scratches on it. In hand these rattlers look like they came from pcgs yesterday.
WD-40 for the sticker goo. Flitz metal and plastic polish for the fine slab scratches. Works wonders. I use technical isopropyl alcohol for Sharpie and other permanent markers.