Worth sending in for grading?

That doesn’t make sense to me.

Because if you look at say a proof American Silver Eagle it is much easier to notice any imperfection in the mirror-like fields of the coin than it would be to notice those imperfections in a normal business strike American Silver Eagle.

That’s why I was immediately able to see the blemish above the privy mark on my V75 Silver Eagle because it was a mirror-like field and stood out like a sore thumb but it was so small that I don’t think I would’ve noticed it on a normal ASE without that mirror-like finish contrast.

 

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Blake, your logic is flawed. It's so much easier and more common to get PF70 grading than MS70 grading. When the mint employees are handling proofs with gloves, and using extreme caution, as opposed to business strike coins flying through the minting process, the ease at which blemishes occur is infinitely more common on business strike coins.

 

At this point the numbers are to small to mean anything. Its the big bulk submitters that have the results by now and with ultra moderns they generally only have the 70s holdered which really throws off the populations. Will there be more 70s submitted than other grades probably as these seem to be well made but nothing has ever actually come close or really been in the over 90% range

 

If you had a few...maybe just two...then I might try one...whichever you think might get the "coveted 70"...but if just the one in OGP and if not sure you want to get another in OGP...I wouldn't, but that's just me. Having it (one for sure) in the OGP rates fairly high for many and I would keep it there (or again, at least one).

 

I bought a 2009 (MMIX) Ultra High Relief One Ounce Double Eagle Gold Coin from a dealer. I was a "newbie" and didn't know much about grading coins. A local coin dealer had the coin and the original owner had sent it in for grading. When it came back, it had been graded MS 68. The original owner was ticked off and sold it to the local dealer for about what it cost him. I bought it from the LCD for about $1,300. I don't know if it was worth it, but I liked it and have kept it. I have a 1904 $20 Liberty Head One Ounce Double Eagle that I got from the LCD in 2010. I paid $1,400. The LCD was going to a show and told me he could get it graded while he was there. On the invoice, he put MS 61, but when it came back, it was "UNC DETAILS - Obverse Scratched." I kept the coin because I like it.
Have coins graded is a "Crap Shoot" unless you are a well trained grader. I would have your coins graded if I felt good about them being PF 70. I won't be sending my Reverse Proof Set, because I'm not good at grading and I don't know anyone locally that is.
Tough Decision. Best of Luck!

 

Don't.

 

Have you ever tried to open a mint sealed coin. You must break the holder seal in order to get it out, why, because it is sealed. Leave them alone!

 

There are two reasons you might want to get them graded.

1. Get a 70 and flip for profit. In this case, you'd like 2 70s, so the odds are a little more against you than normal, with the grading costs being double. The best way to flip these for a profit is to sell the unopened box, next is to sell the opened box to a bulk submitter whose grading costs will be much lower. As an individual set being graded, I wouldn't.
   
   
2. Slab for your collection.

• If you absolutely need to have a slabbed one in your collection ASAP, I would trade the raw box plus some amount less than your certification costs for slabs. We currently don't know the ratio of 69s to 70s, so the premium for a 70 at this point is likewise unknown.
• If you can wait a couple years, you will be able to buy coins already slabbed and make sure you get ones without the milk spots that can take a while to develop. This is what I would recommend.

​

 

You must not have gotten these latest reverse proofs. My type 2 arrived out of its capsule. The weight of the coin hitting the capsule during shipping was enough to pop the capsule open. Most of the capsules have a little notch in them to focus on to get it started. Can use the edge of a knife to get it started as well. Just need to be careful.

I’d say these reverse proofs are worth sending in. Nothings a guarantee but if it looks like a 70 there’s a better than 50% chance it will be. You can screen them yourself for better odds. If you’re sending unopened boxes from the mint then it becomes a real crap shoot.
I’ll be sending many Morgans in as well and I expect to see a lot of 70s. Idk how they were handled but I doubt they fell off a conveyor belt into a bag after striking.

 

Hmmm, from my experience the ASE’s are in little plastic capsules and are in no way sealed.

 

Perhaps @Insider can provide some "inside" information. How many proofs have you examined (sent in as a small submission, not a bulk submission) that you awarded either a PF 70 or an MS 70 to? (oops, is that a dangling participle)

 

I have been collecting ASE's ince about 2009. I don't buy all of them, but the ones that I have bought from the mint have been tightly sealed. Now there are some ASEs being sold by 3rd parties that buy them in bulk and then they put them in THEIR capsules and the ones that I bought early one came in an NGC look-alikes and they were loose. Are we talking about the USM's capsules or 3rd party capsules?

 

The USM capsules are not sealed. Are they tight, sure, but they can be removed in 2 seconds.

 

I guess that if you play with their capsules, they will open. You are probably right. I would like to know about their capsules ,i.e. if they are opened will they cause a problem with the coin? I have yet to open a capsule, and I don't intend to unless the capsules will leave some type of residue that will cause a deterioration (as per Webster) in/on the coin. Does anyone know of any literature that discusses the care and feeding of our coins so they won't be damaged. I know that at one time, the 2 x 2 was concern to we collectors, but I believe that the manufacturers of the 2 x 2s are better (I hope.) However, there are many different vendors that sell a wide variety of "coin holders'. As I mentioned earlier, is there any documentation about "coin holders"? I am sure there are articles that try to teach us the best way to protect our coins, but is there a book or articles that will help us poor collectors.

 

They get opened and removed all the time for grading, albums, people to look at etc. Simply opening one shouldnt do any damage unless you really mess it up or drop the coin talking it out. We sometimes forget that coins are metal. Sometimes the capsules stick and can be a pain to open, but for the most part they're pretty easy to pop open

 

If you intend to keep them, I would give a quick acetone bath, as ASEs will likely develop milk spots.

 

Not worth grading, unless you want to gamble on getting a 70, and want to flip it.

 

Likely still not worth it even for the flip. The bulk dealers have been dumping their stuff and will fight each other to the bottom. By the time you get your coins back they be going for even less. Double the grading fees, a 45 day wait and these will be long forgotten.

 

I'm not sure they grade boxes. So my answer would be...No, don't send in the box for grading!