How do you all search through rolls? I'm interested in starting to go through boxes of pennies and nickels, but haven't started yet because I haven't figured out a way to ease the eye strain. How do you guys do it? Would a lamp like magnifying lense be good? I don't know what you call it, its just a magnifying glass on a light pole that you can adjust. Also, while I'm at it, anything to look for in cents and nickels besides the old ones? Are there many double dies?
Question #2-1995.$40 if it's MS-65. 1959 and after has to be MS-65 or MS-63. But before 1959 it can be below MS-65. So I would try to look for both old ones and new ones.
My Dad is an optometrist, he says you should have good lighting and look away every 20 minutes for at least 20 seconds to rest your eyes. As for what to look for, I look for anything unusual. I have found cuds, clips, brockages, indian heads, liberty and buffalo nickels, a mercury dime, and a franklin half dollar to list a few. Charlie
For magnafying and luminating I use an adjustable lighted mag I bought at Frys Electronics in Burbank CA. I paid about $60.00 and it works great. here is the info we could find - Portable Luminare Issue # BK-13582 09/54 E7851 UL aproval listed I believe fry's has a web site At 59 my eyes were going and I needed the extra help going through bags of nickels
Hi, To answer part of the question. There are doubled dies galore ! Some of the dates included on Memorial cents (that I can think of off the top of my head) include, 1959, 1959 D, 1960, 1960 D, 1962, 1962 D, 1963, !964 , 1966, 1968 D, 1969 S, 1970, 1970 S, 1971, 1972, 1972 D, 1972 S, 1980, 1982, 1983 (obverse and reverses), 1984, 1984 D, 1985, 1986, 1989, 1994, 1995, and 1997. These are not mechanically doubled coins, they are legitimate doubled dies. Some are on the obverse, some are on the reverse. Several of these dates have several varieties. For example there are 3 (that I know of) different doubled dies on 1983 Obverses. At least 2 on 1984 obverses and so on. There are 2 varieties of 1964 Doubled Die Reverses as well. The list goes on! You need a good hand lens to presort, then a good loupe to look for the rest of the stuff. The tough part is learning the difference between mechanical doubling and real die doubling. For lighting, I use a small lamp with a 100 watt bulb. Have Fun, Bill
Originally Posted by Foundinrolls, Quote; The tough part is learning the difference between mechanical doubling and real die doubling. ----------------------------------------------------- This is the part that I'm still having trouble with. Can you enlighten me any?
i have just learned this myself... Strike doubling, or mechaincal doubling gives the effect of a doubling, but might only be part of the word or even just one letter. Strike Doubling leaves a flat appearance on the coin where a true doubling leaves a raised surface much like a second date is present. Strike doubling is more akin to a smear or smudge as the die is pressed on the planchet it moves or rotates leaving the ghostly image. As doubled die i believ is imprinted on the master die, or can result in the die striking twice in a different location each time... i havent figured it all out yet, but hope this helps
I find that a sizable but light-weight magnifying glass works best to reduce eye strain. Nothing that is mounted to anything. Just a large plastic handheld pocket glass is great. Then if I need to, I have a smaller more powerful magnifying glass to look at detail with. Having a large magnifying glass helps in that you don’t have to focus in on everything thus reducing eyestrain. And having a really good light source makes all the difference.
