Isn't it very well possible that, assuming the coin is not a counterfeit, it is really a plain 1928 peace with an extra ray added? Of course, that's probably just my wishful thinking.
Collector, we all want it to be real for you. We really do. It's just we are a little more subjective since we don't have anything invested and just try to give our honest opinion. Anything is possible, but with the given facts...........
Fall Guy, Counterfeit detection is not as black and white as that. Counterfeit detection is often a process with several steps. Sometimes it is a one-step process. For example, if the 1928 Peace Dollar is attracted to a magnet you can be certain the coin is a counterfeit and no more examination is necessary. On the other hand, just because the 1928 Peace Dollar is not attracted to a magnet DOES NOT mean the coin is genuine. It just means the coin passed that one test but more examination is necessary.
Sorry Hobo, I wasn't implying that if it wasn't attracted to magnet then it was genuine. FTWrath posted to check it to the magnet and he would have his answer. I was replying to that statement saying that the magnet test wouldn't be the end all be all of tests.
No problem, Fall Guy. There's a lot of misconceptions about counterfeit detection out there. Glad to know you're up to speed.
I think it is pretty clear by now that we need a bit more information to even begin any further debate. I think the magnet test, diameter test, weight, and a close examination of the reeded edge would be a good start. Of course bringing it to a reputable, knowledgeable dealer for an honest opinion would probably not cost anything either.
I know this is an old thread. The coin is fake. The genuine dies used for the obverse of the genuine 1928 never had a die gouge below the R of LIBERTY. If you don't have a magnet, don't have an xray machine, don't have a micrometer to measure the diameter, just go to Vamworld.com and check the die characteristics of a genuine 1928 Philadelphia Peace dollar. You have 5 obverse die varieties and if none of them match, you have a counterfeit or altered coin. When it comes to authenticating Morgan and Peace dollars, use Vamworld.com to match the die characteristics. If there is no match, in all likelihood the coin is altered or counterfeit.
4 rays under ONE...??? The photo in my 2020 RB, p.241 of a 1925-S...PLUS on my 1928-S MS65 shows just two (2) rays under ONE, with the S under/after the second ray...there's three (3) rays if you count the ray through the N in ONE. Strange.
Well I'll be darn. Thanks for pointing out. Hate these reposts the way they're done...you never know where to start or why they're re-posted...rarely notice the original or even the comment dates (they're there, but small/light and easily/often overlooked). If I do notice, I usually start at the end...figure that's where any new/current comments are posted and reason why re-posted, but don't want to read all the posts over again from start-finish just to find the new one. How about a big "REPOST" by the thread name if/when it's a repost...? Hey, mods...or whoever does the postings...???
Grainy texture and "toning" pattern on the obverse were the first things I noticed. I might possibly see them on a genuine coin, but I very frequently see them on fakes.
Looking at the obverse, it's quite obvious that this coin is bad. The surfaces have a grainy texture and the devices are not sharp as you would see on a genuine piece. On the reverse, you have an extra ray of light that does not appear on the genuine coin. These coins were made from hubbed dies, and it would not be possible to have this variety occur unless some mint employee got bored and decided to add it as it was on the Wisconsin State Quarter some years ago. Here is the reverse of the OP coin. And here is a genuine coin. The photo is from the "Coin Facts" web site.