To crack or not to crack

It can, its not a guarantee itll happen though

Dipped isn't cleaning and is perfectly fine when done right

 

Log in or Sign up to hide this ad.

You aren't really losing much cracking the details coins if you wanted to, the 61s isnt a huge hit either but I would keep those slabbed if it was me

 

Actually think "tomb" (for a slab/holder) is a misnomer. Think about it. In an album...depending on the album but the kind in your photos...you can't/don't ever see the other side of the coin(s)...just usually the obverse...and what a dis-service to the coin(s) plus to those wanting to appreciate the coin(s) to their fullest and the collector who wants to display/show the coin(s)...not just one side. Plus, there's the issue of what albums do to coins over time...40-50 years. If anything, "tomb" more signifies/represents an album...not a slab/holder. Just keep the slabs WITH the album, make some custom inserts to plug the holes with "in holder" and your family/others can enjoy BOTH sides of those coins with ease and which are far better protected/conserved, plus with better value.

 

They are better protected in the slabs, so I'd be inclined to leave them that way.

 

The vast majority of my collection is in cotton lined envelopes. I haven't cracked any entombed coins out for fear of damaging them. So I have them the way i received them.

Of course it's easy when there are no variety albums to entice me.

 

I'm not convinced what you say is true. There is so much diversity out there and how and why people collect and store their coins and why they might be cracking slabs or OGP proof sets, etc. For me, I have plenty of certified slabs that will always stay where they are but I also want to put together and enjoy a type set album for the next 30-50 more years (I just switched from a Dansco 7070 to an Intercept A-190) and hopefully hand it down to my heirs. There is a certain amount of comfort to know a coin is genuine and a clear idea of its condition. For whatever reason if me or others need to liquidated sooner and maximizing value then we can consider re-slabbing but who knows what will be the standard by then? Electronic grading? Anyway... these considerations complicate the conversation over which coins to crack or not to crack far beyond maintaining current resale value in the short term, IMHO.

 

Indeed. I agree with your advice about keeping the slabs. Fundamentally I don't like cracking and it pains me anytime I do it. I do try to purchase raw coins if I can but the vastness of cleaned and dubious quality has me always on the look out. Certainty is worth alot. I have cracked a half dozen slabs already including a $480 Details Grade Seated Dollar, a Trade Dollar and two Bust Halves. For me, the remnant slabs are just as much a part of the provenance of the collection as the coins themselves. But gold coins just seem so much more special so I have extra hesitation. The Quarter Eagle Indian and Gaudens I have were purchased raw.

 

One of the reasons I switched from the Dansco to the Intercept album is the fit seems much better overall. Make no mistake, the Intercept is very poor on a few like the Coronet Large Cent, Reeded Edge Capped Bust Half and Bicentennials but the thinner coins seem to fit very well and overall less loose than the Dansco. But I hear you and that is part of my consideration.

 

Yes I would do it just to fill and album. It's the album I enjoy more than any other of the dozen or so I have, including ones with some very special slabbed coins. These gold coins were purchased specifically with my type set album in mind - either Details grade or below "average" mint state. But I still take the prospect of cracking seriously. For example, I also have a 1909-D half eagle in an early PCGS MS63 holder I wouldn't dream of cracking. I have been appreciating all the comments and debate. I find it fascinating.

 

Say no to crack. If for any reason they are ever sold they are worth more to some people (i.e. me) because at least they can be verified as real. If there's some unforeseen circumstance a day or a decade down the road the slabbed ones will be easier to sell, especially online, not for the grade but to prove they are legitimate. With all the chinese fakes I would never buy uncertified gold online, not even from a place like APMEX. Even if you're an expert most peoples pictures leave a lot to be desired. Maybe that's on purpose - I don't know.

 

Collectors have been getting warned about fake gold dollars since I started collecting in the 1960s. There were pictures of genuine and fake gold dollars in the collector magazines that served as warnings. I think that it probably affected the market for them. My point is certification is a big plus for gold dollars.

 

Generally I'd say no, do not crack them out, as gold coins should be in a slab (protection, grade, authenticity, etc.)… however the coins in question do have low UNC grades or details grades, so in this case I'd add them to the album.

 

I’d crack the details and leave the straight graded. Agree hopefully the details will gain a little skin

 

I like this answer. If you must crack them all, I would save the labels and tape them behind them on the inside of the album to keep them with them so you and others know that the were slabbed at one time. As the chain of custody would move further away it means less but your family would know what they are and that they're genuine at least and what they were graded.

 

The saved labels are interesting artifacts, but they don’t prove anything. Once the slab is broken, the certification is null and void. The coins can be too easily switched. This was one of the problems with the old ANACS papers, despite the fact that there were photos of the coin.

 

@waterfallice With all due respect, in my ever so humble opinion, people who save collectible items for their heirs are idiots. MOST, but certainly not all, heirs will sell off the inherited items as fast as they can. As such they will almost certainly receive less than the items are worth. The only exception to this is if THEY are collectors of the same sort of items, and would enjoy KEEPING the items.

I have a world class space artifact collection. I'm now 63, and, barring accidents, war etc., given family genetics I can probably look forward to living into my latter 80's. Given that, I plan on selling off my most valuable items (as well as a majority of other items) when I hit 80. It'll hurt to sell them, but I'll have enjoyed owning them for many years.

Just before I sell these items I will ask my kids if there are any items in particular that they like, and if so I will pass the items on to them. Otherwise the most valuable items (and a lot of "stuff") will be sold, with one or two exceptions that I think are no brainers as far as financial "instruments", to be held as long as possible in family. (For example, I own the Apollo 12 flown Flight Plan, in essence the log of Apollo 12. The Apollo 11 flown Flight Plan has already been sold page by page, so my Apollo 12 flown Flight Plan is the earliest COMPLETE Moon Landing flown Flight Plan IN HUMAN HISTORY).

Buy what you like and enjoy it. See if your kids AS THEY GET OLDER, e.g. 25+ years of age, enjoy those sorts of items. If they don't, and you want to maximize your inheritance bequest to them, then sell the items. If they don't, and you still enjoy the items and there is not too much of a chunk of your financial worth tied up in them, then hold onto the items FOR YOURSELF. If your kids do enjoy the items, then so much the better, they will be good custodians of your coins, and enjoy them for themselves. Enjoy life, as they saying goes, you can't take it with you.

With regards to cracking the items, I'd crack the Details coins and keep the 61s slabbed.

HAVE FUN with collecting!!!

 

In that event, you're already four coins ahead. How is it logical to pay twice to get them certified?

Personally, I've never understood the fascination with albums, particularly considering how poorly they protect coins, or in some cases even contribute to damage. But of course, everyone's mileage will vary on this subject.