Should I send 1936 matte proof cent for regrading by ANACS or grading by NGC?

Recently bought a 1936 matte proof Lincoln cent. Prior owner had it graded by ANACS as Proof 65 Red, but apparently decided to send it to PCGS for grading. PCGS certified it as genuine proof, unc details, but as questionable color.

Would appreciate opinions (with rationale) on whether I should send it back to ANACS for re-grading and hope it gets the original PF 65RD grade, send it to NGC for fresh look/grade, or just accept the PCGS details grade.

I intend to keep the coin, regardless, as it completes my collection of all proof Lincoln cents since 1936.

Thanks in advance.


PCGS Certificate Verification Coin Details for Cert #40610465

http://www.anacs.com/Populations/CertVerification.aspx?cert=2351655 (no coin photo on ANACS verification)

 

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Should've just left it alone in the first place and I don't think the results will differ now.

 

Agree with you on that. Guess prior owner banked on PCGS validation of ANACS grade. Have to admit the jump in dollar value is significant with a PCGS grade of PF65 RD. But, hey, the prior owner's potential loss in value was my gain, as I certainly didn't pay PF65 RD price.

 

I don't see what is questionable about the color. Looks nice to me.

Send it to NGC.

 

Tending to agree with you, when I look at some past NGC-graded 1936 satin proofs. Found this one (NGC graded as PF 65RB) as a prior sale on Stacks Bowers site:

1936 Lincoln Cent. Satin Proof-65 RB (NGC). | Stacks Bowers

 

I dont agree with it being details but think about it if PCGS graded it details what are the odds NGC will straight grade it.

 

I agree with 'physics-fan' & if you do I'm sure out CT group would be interested in the outcome.
You can always send it back to ANACS.
J.T.

 

Don't know, but I think it'd be worth the effort, more so as a matter of curiosity of comparing the grades on the same coin from PCGS, NGC, and ANACS. If I was looking to resell the coin, I'd definitely do it for coin value risk/reward. But since I'm keeping the coin, the motivation would be more to satisfy curiosity.

 

Will definitely post the results I get from sending to NGC. I'm tending towards that option.

 

I'd give NGC a shot.
Or just spend it.

 

Send it to NGC, if they also come back as QC, crack and send back to ANACS. Easy peasy.

 

I wasn’t aware of Matte proof Lincoln’s being made in 1936. Do you have any information on those?

 

I would send to NGC. It looks better than the one my collection. The trouble Proofs is that they are bears of photograph. I can do pretty well judging none Proof coins from auction photographs, but I have yet to master the skill for judging the Proof coins.

Here is the Satin Proof Cent that is in my 1936 Proof set.

 

I definitely will, especially after I just received notices on grade results from my last submissions to both PCGS and NGC. I was really disappointed with the PCGS results, as several were "questionable color" (similar to the 1936 satin proof Linc cent that someone sent in to PCGS and I purchased at auction) or purportedly "altered sur. Most of the "questionable color" grades were copper coins.

Brief text about 1936 matte proof Lincoln cents by Jaime Hernandez on PCGS price guide page (He's the PCGS Price Guide Editor and Author of the Rare Coin Market Report Auction Highlights):

"The last time the Mint had produced any proof cents was in 1916 when it struck the 1916 Matte Proof Lincoln cents. In 1936, the Mint struck Proof Sets for that year and produced the Lincoln Cent in two different finishes. The first Proof cents were struck in a Satin Finish, while the second finish was struck in a Brilliant format.

The 1936 Proof Cent with a Satin Finish tends to lack strong Brilliant surfaces compared to the Brilliant Finish which has mirror like surfaces. The 1936 Satin Finish Proof cent is the scarcer of the two coins and there are probably no more than 600 coins that survive with the Satin Finish."


Link to PCGS Price Guide page on 1936 Matte Proof Lincolns: 1936 1C Satin, RD (Proof) Lincoln Cent (Wheat Reverse) - PCGS CoinFacts

 

I think PCGS just doesn't like me, lol. See photo of my 1936 proof Buffalo Nickel -- they said details, damage. Ugh. Maybe a ding along the rim edge? Hard to tell after it's encapsulated. I didn't see it beforehand.

 

They were not Matte Proofs; they were Proofs that had a duller, satin finish, not the brilliant finish. There were also satin finish and brilliant nickels. The reason for the two finishes that is most often given was that the mint personnel were learning to make Proof coins. Proofs had not been issued on a regular basis since 1916.

Another reason for the two finishes was collector dissatisfaction. Most collectors didn't like the Matte Proof coins. They wanted brilliant Proofs. When the complaints came in about the first 1936 satin finish coins, the mint started polishing the dies to the brilliant finish. The result was that the coins lost a little detail.

I don't spend big bucks on Proof cents. I am too concerned about spotting and storage issues. I do have nice examples of the satin finish and brilliant Proof Buffalo Nickels.

Here is a satin finish Proof 1936 Buffalo Nickel. I really like this coin. I think that it shows the Buffalo Nickel design to its best advantage.



Here is a 1936 Brilliant Proof Buffalo Nickel. This coin is so bright that distracts me from enjoying the design, but most collectors prefer these coins to the satin finish pieces.



Here I my 1936 Proof cents. I don't care for these coins so I refused to spend the big bucks for them.

This is the satin finish.



And my least favorite coin, the 1936 brilliant finish Proof cent. The coin probably has felt my lack of love for it and has responded by being a bear to photograph.



And take things full circle here is a 1913 Type I Matte Proof Buffalo Nickel. Collectors did not like these coins because they were no much different from a business strike nickel. It takes some expertise to the tell the difference.

 

I believe that there is some sort of a problem with that Proof Buffalo Nickel. If the PCGS "glammor shot" is accurate, the surfaces on the obverse fall somewhere between the brilliant and satin finish which is sort of a no man's land. The brilliant pieces are really bright. The reverse is obviously that of a brilliant Proof.

For what it's worth here is a bit of advice. Buy the coin in the holder you want it be in, even if you have to pay a little more. Some of the off-brand grading services are off-brand for a reason. Crossing coins from NGC to PCGS is hard. Many times crossing them from a second tier service is even harder. I am not saying that the second tier services are always wrong, but they can slip up more frequently.

 

Thanks for your response.
I know about the Matte proof Lincoln’s, but you confused me when you asked where to send your Matte 1936 since none were ever made.

 

Love the Proof Buffalos. I retired my set “Horns a Plenty” from the PCGS Registry 12 years ago. https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/ni...falo-nickels-proof-1913-1937/alltimeset/42053

 

Between the long feather and very close to the rim (8:00 - 8:30) there appears to be a couple of long scratches and potentially some small scratches.

Also, between the short feather and the rim, is it possible there are some scratches mixed in with the normal heavy die polish that is there? That area appears to have heavier polish marks than normal.