Can anyone describe the difference between the greysheets and bluesheets? Also, I will be attending a local coin show on Dec 27th. I am particularly looking for BU Peace Dollars. Can I get your perspective on what is a fair number to pay for a Peace dollar relative to the greysheet bid and ask prices? I am trying to stretch my dollars to get as many Peace dollars as I can. Thanks, AJ
The bluesheet is, for your purposes, practically useless. It is for sight-unseen slabbed coins. Since you will have coins in hand, greysheet is more appropriate. The greysheet is supposed to be dealer-to-dealer wholesale prices. You may be able to purchase BU Peace dollars at close to greysheet bid, but don't be surprised if you pay a few dollars more. My best advice is shopping around before purchasing, and when you do decide to purchase, feel free to ask the dealer if they can offer you a better price ("Do you have any room in this coin?" or "How much are you asking for this coin?" or something similar.) One thing NOT to do is walk around flaunting your greysheet, and demanding to purchase coins at those prices. If you do, you'll likely be told to call CDN/greysheet and try to buy coins from them.
Grey Sheet is for coins slabbed or raw that are purchased sight seen - meaning seen in person. Blue Sheet is only for slabbed coins that are purchased sight unseen. And looking at a picture is still sight unseen.
Thanks for the info. I will attempt not to flaunt the greysheets, but will have it for reference, so i don't have to remember the bid price on every Peace Dollar.
But if you buy a coin off of a photo and the seller offers a return policy, then it is not a sight unseen transaction since the deal isn't complete until after you have seen the coin and have decided not to return the coin.
Actually buying under greysheet prices is not that uncommon. If you are going for coins maybe over $200ish, there is almost always room in the dealer's price. Remember, however, buying at greysheet's prices is normally not a bad buy.
It depends on the dealer and the coin as well. A dealer I used to work with would buy 10% below bid from collectors at shows and sell at bid to collectors. I went to a show last weekend and a different dealer was paying 25% behind on common proof sets and selling at 15% below...BU Dollars are more popular so likely be to closer to bid.
I see what you mean but usually guess who eats the return postage. Therefore it is sight seen with strings.
The last large coin show I went to I couldn't find any dealers willing to sell nice xf or better Bust or seated halves at near greysheet ask. Unless of course they were overgrade or cleaned or whizzed. It all kinda depends on what you are looking for. I supposed a stack of proof sets or an occasional bag of low grade type w/culls mixed in is an easy find at a good price. I remember buying bags of old large cents for around 3.25 each at shows and then splitting them out to some flea market dealers at 5-6 bucks. Sometimes you just have to pay up for a what you want or walk on by. Seems to me like the Bust and Seated stuff is very hard to get fairly graded at a bargain price. Also try to find a decent 1798 large cent in an actual G or VG for bid price. very hard As for that coin show, bought almost nothing and feel like I should have took everything to sell. The market seems overpriced-to me Lack