Thanks, Coinman. I'm looking for a dealer that will submit my coin to ANACS for me now. I don't have 5 that I need graded at this time. I have a 14-D, and an 09-S I could send with my 09-S VDB but none of my others are 'slab worthy.'
You can always ask the dealer that sold it to you and let him charge you the submission fee with a commitment to refund the purchase price of the coin, should it in fact come back as counterfeit. If you don't mind, what was your cost for this purchase?
With the coin in that bad a shape, it is going to be difficult to tell any more. However, any good dealer could tell more in hand. As for die markers, it is the N in UNITED and the VDB. Both of yours look good from what I can see. If you look at http://www.cointalk.com/t78043/. The title of that thread is " How to tell if your 1909 S. V.D.B is real". As for ANACS, if you find a good dealer, they will gladly send you single coin in. NGC/PCGS will now do the same thing ANACS or even DCGS does, except the latter 2 are cheaper.
I traded silver halfs (20 - 64's, and 140 - 40%s) and I added $110 in cash and got this and a scratched 1914-D that is in Good condition. What's your opinion of that price/deal?
Jason, quite frankly I think you were taken advantage of, given the condition (damage) of the 09 S coin. I am very disheartened to hear this. The dealer who sold the coin to you, do you know whether or not they are ANA Members ? Please let me know. send me a private message. Thank you.
You did not get any super bargain. The cheapest Heritage has sold lately (9/2007) was $410 and it was badly scratched. That ought to be something similar to yours. Your 14-D ought to to $100 plus a bit depending on the scratch. You figure what you sold.
Of course you didn't mention the condition of the 20-64's and the 140-40% coins either. Also, if possible post a photo of the 14D. Sometimes people say a scratch is really bad but in some instances it is hardly noticable. And sometimes it is a gauge. Is it on the obverse of reverse? Also, it the 14D is of a really high grade and the so called scratch is minor, you may have a nice coin. The main thing here is if both are real, not fakes. As coppercoins said, send in for verification and if not real, take them back to that guy fuming mad. If both are real, the heck with all the pessimist, those are your coins and if real and if your happy, that is what is really important.
Just Carl, I'll post a pic of the 14 D tomorrow. It's a nice coin. Small reverse scratch that's toned over a little. If both are real, I'm satisfied with the deal. Both were represented as damaged/scratched and I had shopped around similar coins. I didn't steal them for sure, but those two dates are in such demand, they're hard to find at a bargain.
Well if your satisfied with the deal, that is all that matters. Now lets get that 09'S authenticated.
I just dropped it in the mail just now. It was $48 total to get it done ($19 fee, $20 return shipping and return insurance, and $9 outbound shipping and insurance). I sent it for the 15 day service. I'll update you when I get the results. Stay tuned.
Update: 12/15, my coin is at ANACS. You can check the status online and mine says that it will be mailed back on 1/11. I paid for 15 day service but I think they are closed during the holidays.
'09 S VDB is Real!!!!! Well, I received a shipping notice from ANACS today so I logged on and sure enough, it's authentic. This is what showed on the website: Open Date 12/10/2009 1:02:34 PM Expected Ship Date* 1/11/2010 ItemDateMintDenomVarietyGradeShipped DateCarrierTracking43178761909 S 1C VDB 20 DETAILS 1/11/2010 FedEx Finalizing I expected a damaged/details grade since the rim has obvious damage. Is '20' considered Fine? Very Fine? Thanks all, JasonB
Does anyone have a Red Book handy. What value does it have at grade 20? Of course, I know the damage will affect it, just curious what a grade 20 with no problems is valued at.
I don't think it's good, I don't think it's good, the mint mark position is not quite right of the 4 known - it's hard to tell but the horzontal bar on "B" rev. is not quite as slanted as I think it should be.
Well I guess I was wrong on this one - it's not the first time. Well I guess I was wrong on this one - it's not the first time.
Thanks All I am very grateful for all of the help on this site. I learned a lot through this process. One dealer I went to recently told me that unless you hold the coin in hand, you can't tell much even with good pics. I appreciate all the opinions and advice! Thank you, JasonB
congratulations Jason. You asked if 20 is VF - Yes, it is. Fine is 12 & 15. Very fine is 20, 25, 30, & 35. "what a grade 20 with no problems is valued at"? They sell between $1,000 and $1,100 on Heritage. Now, those are all certified coins.
