Can anyone tell from these pics if I should be concerned about the authenticity of this coin? It has some damage to the edge but I just can't tell for sure.
Thank you. It came from a reputable dealer so I should have known it was real. Next question, should I have it graded? ANACS since it has rim damage? Any idea of what it's worth? Thanks in advance, JasonB
Based on what I am seeing, I say the S was added. Notice how flat it is and the dark coloring around it? Really hard to see in the pics however. I would question this one.
Most times from what I understand they are glued, but the can be melted into place as well. I dont know all the tricks. What I do know is that its been happening for a LONG time. How do I know this? I have one that I purchased back in the 70's. There was a thread on that coin here in CT a few years ago. http://www.cointalk.com/t16460/ is the thread
Please post full photos of obverse and reverse. We will try to give you opinions on grade and submitting for authentication.
Here is another link to a past discussion that has good pictures. It was easy to find I just searched for it, there are more past threads that might help as well. http://www.cointalk.com/t78043/
I see nothing to tell me it is counterfeit, but not enough for me to say it is real either. You need to post some pictures of the entire coin. BTW, that flat area and darker coloring around teh "S" looks exactly like the picture of the "genuine " example in "Official Guide to Coin Grading and Counterfeit Detection" by PCGS.
You may want to check with www.coppercoins.com In the book from Chuck, the guy that runs that web site, there is an explanation of the faked 09S VDB's and what they look like and what the real S looks like. Also, there are photos of the faked add on VDB on the reverse. It is explained about the add on Mint marks being the wrong style. Yours looks genuine from what I can see from your photos.
Thank you all. I will check Coppercoins. I love that site. I appreciate all of the help. I'll post a full pic also.
This is the best I could do for whole coin pics. Worth grading? Would PCGS do it with the rim damage or would I need to go to ANACS?
Okay...first, the coin isn't worth grading, even if it is real. It's farr too gone in damage to be a valuable coin. Second, it looks fake to me. The weakness in the strike, the sharpness in the rim, the shape of the mintmark - it's all just wrong. My recommendation would be to send it in for certification as genuine to ANACS. If they send it back as genuine, I stand corrected. If they send it back as counterfeit, you will have something to back you up in getting a refund. I personally would never consider a damaged key date coin. They are very difficult to sell, and are going to be valued from person to person on a very wide scale. One person may think they are worth half or double what the next person would say, and both would be correct.
I appreciate the expert opinion. I will send to ANACS and if you like, I'll let you know the results. I actually like the damaged coins for the very reason you stated, the value can vary so widely. There's some profit to be made from the variance and you can get key dates at a bargain. Of course, if this is a fake, that proves your point and not mine. Thanks again, Jason
I suspect the mint mark was nefariously applied to the coin. The 'S' mintmark is usually an open design, not a closed design as appears on that coin. Additionally, the heavy distortion east and south of the coin are suspicious. Finally, the mint marks left edge is about aligned with the left edge of the '0' in 1909, where it probably should be a smidgen to the left of that. That being said, I am looking forward to hearing what ANACS has to say about this.
It appears to be real to me. The N in UNITED appear correct, the VDB seems OK, and the S looks like obverse #4. It is damaged, but real. It would still be worth certifying because they would them authenticate it. You would not get a grade, but they would say it was real (or not).
I'll get it authenticated through ANACS and report back to this post. RLM, is there any other shots I could take with my coin microscope that might definitively tell if it's real. I can zoom in anywhere you'd like. Are there die markers like on popular errors that you can see on a coin in this condition?
Jason , the advice that coppercoins suggested is very sound advice regarding submitting to ANACS as soon as possible. As he also stated, should it come back as a "counterfeit", at least you have the ammunition needed to substantiate your claim for a refund from that dealer. Please do let us know what the findings are. Also, I would like to suggest that you steer clear of purchasing such "Problem" coins as this. Tom.
