BIOX Experiments #1

Jack, I went over and read that thread. No one on that board seems to have an idea that a person must experiment and read the directions before going public and making an A-S of himself. I do admit that before and after photos are very hard to color match as to lighting and coin contrast but I have never seen a lincoln as blue as that example. One needn't be a professional to use the product, but to get it and dunk it for a predetermined time ( planned around dinner) and expect good results is dumb.

As seen from my other experiment, sometimes I went too far and got a lighter pink color, which I find now is quite mello and almost original after a month or more, but never a copper like that.

Actually I only go to that forum when someone here links it. I prefer the group here, much more open minded and less inbred. IMHO.

Jim

 

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I read that PCGS forum AJ. Fun stuff. I wish I had good pics or I would post. I am impulsive and don't do these scientific Jim type experiments. Coins already take up so much time. I wander if so many people on these sites work from home or are retired as these post creations, photos, before and burn many hours of time. Cool experiment so far Jim.
PS I am glad people have the time to help us with these educational posts!!

 

its easy to criticize verdi gone but its difficult to create it.

 

Spock,
Thanks for your comments, I will certainly try that in my experiments. I started it diluted as I was unsure of the time.

Jim

 

my pleasure. i am sorry i couldnt help with verdi gone but for biox feel free to ask anything i have spent more than 3 months running experiments with biox on different coins

another thig that comes to mind is - not sure if its written on your bottles but it says to apply to the affected areas only not on the entire coin but for patina related issues u have to.

take a nicely toned penny - unc of possible and drop a couple of spots of biox and wait 30 seconds and keep watching you will see the entire toning process go backwards now it may also be possible to stop that process midway and get colored coins if you manage to do that and then get a clean chit from the TPG for the coin - then its trouble

 

Jim....what ever happened with this experiment?

 

Thad, I was mainly trying to evaluate its use for copper coins, and I have found that it is good to clear BU coins that are getting a little hazy. But the effects on RB,BN, or even UNC coins that have developed a good patina, is unpredictable and tends to act lip an acid dip, leaving unnatural coloration. As to removing bronze disease, verdigris, it is not as effective as your formula. I was hoping it would be effective on the "milk spots" on the 2009 cents, but it wasn't, or I would have posted it

Jim

 

Jim- does this contradict what you said above? You said the coins have mellowed out after a month or so? Would this help my S VDB? (Don't worry folks- won't do it unless I was 100% sure of results)

 

Boss, I think you are referring to my answer to Jack about a Verdigone thread over on CU forum that indicated damage was done by verdigone. I was mentioning that coins that I had some pinkish color from over experimenting were returning back to the normal patina color. Not to do with Biox. Spock's posts above about the action of Biox seem close to being right on, but I just haven't had the time to expand on the experimentation.

Boss, has the 09-Svdb changed anymore? How about a current photo sometime? Also interested if any change in the DMSO coins. The trial pieces here still seem unaffected.


Jim

 

Jim- tried to get the photos that put this coin in the worst light. The S VDB, I cracked out of the NCS slab and soaked in mineral oil x about 3 weeks checking regularly. It seemed some of the old verdigris spots on the reverse started to show up or turn more prounced colors like they used to be so I removed most of the oil, photo'd and put in album. Not signficant changes. Coin still makes me crazy. I can't decide what to do with it.
The DMSO coins look the same. I put in album and hoping they tone. Have not done any window sill stuff, but I will do soon with the 1911 D.

 

I should add it seemed some of the oil was breaking down the dark toning somewhat. I did olive oil a few days as well and it really started turning the verdigris on the back red/dark colors, so I went back to mineral oil.