Not sure if this is really the right spot for this but here goes.... I am really interested in Proof sets mostly US but other countrys might interest me expeacially proof sets any helpfull hints or advice out there for a fairly new collector? I am also a bit surprized as to how much conterfiting there is with collector coins. how much are the proof sets/ proof coins messed with. If I buy a proof set from a online dealer and they apper to repitable can I trust that they are genuine? are the cases opened often? Thanks, Ryan
It's very unusual to see proof or mint sets that have been messed with in any meaningful way and I've never seen a counterfeit in any of these later sets. There are a few exceptions such as substitution of silver or clad coins for a more valuable piece and cherry picking of the the sets. If you buy these based on what you see then there is relatively little danger. There are a few other scams such as PL '68 dimes substituted into '68 proof sets for sale as no-S's, but all these scams are very limited in scope and rarely seen. Just be careful on sets where this is a huge premium for the set like in 1970 Japanese mint sets or type 2 1981 US proof sets. Proof sets are usually very high quality and very attractive and I wouldn't want to discourage you from collecting these, but don't overlook the mint sets. These usu- ally have far lower mintages and much higher attrition. There is often more chance of finding scarce coins or grades in them.
this is an area that i have been trying to complete.I have noticed that the nicer sets come directly from the mint. And yes cherry picking is quite common from what I have found. Would'nt you, as a dealer, pick out the 69 and 70 grade coins and replace with lower grade coins? Personally, I would not order online and only buy something that i can inspect in person. (though I am not degrading ALL online dealers) I am stating the facts as i see them.If you are just collecting for fun, then it probably would'nt matter either way.My advice is to buy the book B4 the coins and know what you are looking for.Not all proof sets will have all 69 or 70 grade coins, but you might find one or two high grades in about four or five sets.(directly from the mint). So , if you are about quality , buy a handfull of sets from the mint.Although, I have had problems with them too. (cracked cases, hairs and debris inside the cases, spotted coinc ect.)And having orders cancelled at the last minute. I once had thought that the sonically sealed cases were opened by actually cracking the plastic. This is untrue.For anyone can slide thier fingernail between the two pieces of plastic and open them up. Check too see if the two pieces are (loose) .A few years ago, I had bought a 99' silver set and noticed this.(that dealer will never see me again). CLAW
Is there a reason why the 1987 uncirculated sets are so low in price. I would have to assume that the value of the Kennedy alone would drive the prices up a little. The same could be said about the 60 thru 64 mint sets.
This gives you an idea of how small many of these markets really are. While all P and D '87 halfs went into the mint sets (and souvenir) mint sets, there are simply more of these than there are collectors. Even the 1986 halfs are worth more because few rolls of coins were set aside in those days and the mint set mintage was lower. The clad mint sets are about the only supply there is for many of the modern coins. There were rolls and bags of the '60 to '64 issues so even though the mintages of the sets were lower, there are other sources for the coins in them. It should also be remembered that prior to 1965 there was little difference between a mint set coin and one from a roll. The later sets contain the lions' share of most gems and virtually the entire production of some.