Another post got me thinking (Lincoln BU Red Collectors-Need advice)... Slightly different question than that post. I found a website that sells a package of 20 for $13.50 (or 67.5¢ each) - https://www.eaglecoinholders.com/os...o.php?products_id=325&osCsid=6079b75fd765fdba... I am collecting red bu Lincolns and am putting them into cardboard 2 x 2 "flips" but never thought of the oxidation problem over time... Would it be worth going back and spending 67.5¢ per coin to "preserve" them? Is there an "air tight" 2 x 2 that may be cheaper in bulk or is their price a good one? Also, If I do "convert", what is the best method of labeling each coin? Thanks! :thumb:
I've used the Eagle 2x2's and would recommend finding something else. My observations: - They are a bit difficult to use. - I'd rate them better than cardboard 2x2's but suspect something like Airtites would be better. - Relatively expensive Whatever you choose, handle the coins with lintfree cotton or latex gloves.
Of course opinions will vary. I haven't used eagle products, but basically they just substituted plastic for the cardboard in a 2x2. Better because of lack of cardboard, but even better because of the lack of staples. Staples will corrode and since they go through the mylar film area also, toning/corrosion will occur over a period of time adjacent to the staples, Airtightness is relative. When White did his studies and book "Coin Chemistry" on toning/corrosion he found that KoinTains were the best for tight fit and least susceptable to influx of hydrogen sulfide over whitman hard plastic holders and Air-tite holders. I would use them, except they are so "Darn" hard to work with for me! He did show with an experiment that a whitman hard plastic holder sealed with Devcon 5 min. epoxy around the outside edge of a sealed holder was a very good way also, with no change. He used levels of H2S far above normal environmental, affecting a coin as he watched within a few minutes. A neat trick he showed which could be used by the "Zip lock" storage proponents was to add a couple of BU copper cents loose in the bag along with your holdered coins. The loose coins would show toning and darkening and then they could be replaced with more "trap coins" rather like a poorman's intercept method. Sorry for the rambling. I personally like the method of rinsing a coin with acetone quickly, air dry, put into an archival 2x2 plastic flip, flatten it to get the air out and heat seal twice. Jim
I don't use them. I have some I removed from purchased coins that I sent off to slab, and it is just very delicate work for my fingers. For most of my long term ( not selling collection) I use the Saflips like at the bottom of the page. By the way, this is a great dealer! http://www.jpscorner.com/Coin_Flips.htm and heat seal with this sealer after squeezing the air out. http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H6152-8-Plastic-Sealer/dp/B0007D2COC/ I experimented before doing this by sealing salt crystals, and submerging under water for a week, figuring if any moisture got in, the crystals would lose their sharp edges, and none did. Try that with an air-tite ( I did also ~ lasted less than an hour). The sealer is heat adjustable and once the correct temperature if found for the type of flip, mark the control point. The temperature is different for different flips. Since this subject can evoke many different reactions,This is my opinion based on my testing conditions. Jim
