What constitutes a "complete set"?

I recently posted a thread asking for input regarding Antarctic coins, initially I had a list of about 10-20 coins, an easy type set, right? Well, my list has climbed to about 50 coins, and a few of these coins are somewhat expensive. A "cheesy" (IMHO) gold plated Australian silver coin with a mintage of 500 from the RAM, which I believe to be the key to this set, which is really a gold plated version of a $100 coin. I found ONE and decide I better buy it, for about $400, as much as I hated to. The next key is a 100E gold coin from Ireland, for about $650, mintage about 2,000; and next up is a fractional gold piece from France for about $250. Other than that, I think most of the rest of the coins can be had for between $100-$200, and not "extremely" difficult.

So back to my original question, there are numerous coins minted by a private mint that are considered legal tender, of which, there are two versions, a copper/nickel BU version and a silver proof version of the same coin. Would you consider your set complete if you only had the copper/nickel BU version and not the silver proof version?

 

Log in or Sign up to hide this ad.

Some folks include proofs in their definition of a "complete" set or series, others don't.

Except to the extent that you are trying to fill a commercial folder/album, the definition of completeness is entirely up to the individual collector.

Possibilities always include:

• Type sets - one of each type of coin from the area of interest, without regard to mint marks/dates
• Date sets - one of each year of issue, without regard to mint marks
• Date/mintmark sets - one of each year of issue from each issuing mint
• All variety sets - one of each intentional variation in design (can be either date, type, or date/mint)
• Errors and/or proofs included/excluded - self explanatory
• Any other configuration that you prefer for your own collection.

And, of course, you can leave spaces for the unobtainable - or not - as you see fit.

The only "rule" of completeness is that there is no rule.

 

hontonai gave you an excellent and complete response.
All I can do is second his post.
A "complete set", particularly for your Antarctic collection, is strictly up to you.
Your definition.

 

Right on! You decide what is a set! What wiuld I do?

I would not consider any coin minted/authorized by any country without sovereignty
space upon Antarctica!

Clinker

 

Thanks for the feedback. My original thought was that I would not include gold pieces, but I really think the fractional gold piece from France belongs in the collection, so, in my mind, I can't really justify not having all the other gold pieces.

All of the countries on my list with Antarctic coinage all maintain a presence on the continent, with the exception of the Falkland Islands (UK), South Georgia & the Sandwich Islands (UK) and the Cook Islands (NZ); however, all of those are governed by countries that do maintain a presence on the continent.

After sleeping on it I don't think I can consider the collection complete unless I have "all" the coins. If I were collecting ASEs, even if I knew the 95W Proof was out of my price range, I'd still always be looking for a way to get one into my collection, and I can say the same for the Antarctic coins. It will just cost more, which means it will take longer to assemble. Have I mentioned I'm impatient! :crying:

 

Seconded. All in favor say "Aye !" (loud chorus) AYE !!!!

All opposed... (silence)

Looks like the ayes have it !

What constitutes a complete set ? Whatever brings you pleasure and enjoyment.

 

Not only do I agree with hontonai here, but I want to add something:

Even for this one item, there is variation.

For example: how many "types" of Lincoln cents are there? Would you say "one -- the Lincoln Cent"? Or, perhaps two: one "wheatie" and one "Memorial". Would you include the 1943 steel as a separate type? For Memorials, would you include one for copper and one for zinc?

And for 2009? Well, at least four (each of the four designs). But if you go by composition, there are eight (four zinc and four copper). And so forth . . .

 

I have a customer who is working on the set of 4 obverse dies for the 1909-S VDB in mint state rb.......a fun "set" to help out on :thumb:

 

And don't forget that after one collects all the dies of a particular issue, you can then work on the die states...

Jim

 

Geeeez, thanks guys, this set is getting harder to achieve by the minute and now I should be looking for die varieties and errors?

 

The ancient texts say that if you truly complete a "set" of any series your mind will no longer be "complete". Always stay one coin short.

Jim

 

I'm pretty sure I've always been a coin short :goofer:

 

There are a lot of us around!:goofer:

The "One coin short " club.

Jim

 

I often decide to only include coins released and/or used in circulation for many of my sets...in which case proofs are left out. But as others has said it's really just what helps you sleep better at the end of the day.

 

Listen to Jim, I have a feeling this guy is right on:thumb:

 

aww, heck -- why not go for the whole enchilada . . . how about every known one in existence?!

 

One of the reasons I don't like commercial albums. I really hate to be told what I have to collect. For instance, with Lincolns, the 1922 plain and the 1955 DDO are always in them.....well, I consider those to fall in errors and varieties....not a part of a "complete" collection IMO.

For my Lincolns, I have every date and mint mark coin. For fun, I've also completed a few grade sets. Jack just help me complete the 1909 VDB part. I now have a "complete" set of 09 VDB's in every grade from G to MS.

 

Nice, I did not know that was the plan!

Hopefully, Charmy The Penny Lady will post here, she has a set of 1877 Indians, all grades I think

 

Impatience is just 1 of many symptoms of our addiction :desk:

 

Well, I decided to go back and look at the gold French coin, it has a mintage of 50!!!! 50!!!! Wow, I'm glad I went back and looked, all are hand struck. I ended up with it, 2 keys down 1 to go.