i just purchased a 1935 and a 1942 walking liberties,, i know i know ,, worthless right ,,, well my question is ,what is the W under the eagles wing stand for ??? both of them have it
Come on friend, take that chip off your shoulder. We're all friends here. So far as those coins go, they could be worth anywhere from bullion value to $120 for the '35 and $60 for the '42, depending on condition and mint mark. However, since you are asking about the "W", I have to assume that both are worn to the extent that Weinmann's first initials are gone. That puts them in no better than Fine, so they are both in the $5 neighborhood. If you paid significantly more, you overpaid. If you paid less, you got a bargain.
well the coins seem to be in very nice shape and as far as the A it seems its over top of the W not next to it,thier isnt any room next to the W anyway unless they put the AA on the branch ,,, but looking at it with a magnifying glass since my eyes arent so well these days i clearly see a double rimmed A over the Wlike in the center of the W
I really don't want to seem like I'm picking on you, but if you are going to spend money on coins, I can guarantee that you are going to overpay for many of them if you don't make the effort to learn at least the rudiments of grading. "Nice", with or without "Very", is an amorphous term with no generally accepted meaning. The value of a coin depends, among other things, on its grade. "Good" and "Fine", with and without an "About", "Very" or "Extra" are defined grading terms that mean approximately the same thing to American collectors, and to most foreign collectors of U.S. coins. They, or their translations, have established meanings in other countries too, although not always the same as their U.S. meaining.
thanks for the warm comments ,, well im learning ,im not a grading company and im learning about coins from what ive read on here, soooooooooo if my knowledge is way off , its this forums fault,lol, i spend alot of time reading opinions and looking at sites that are posted for info on coins , so far im happy with what i spend on a coin, i am a newbie so i expect to get slightly jilted along the way , , remember this , my great grandkids, may make some cash off these coins,and im sure that they will be worth more then i paid for them by then,,, as far as the collecting part ,, to me is an inexpensive hobby,if i buy a coin for 3 dollars and its worth 20 im a happy camper ,,,plus as time goes bye i do have alot of cool coins that are very old and in really good shape ,,,, to me good shape would be totally ledgeable, all printing on the coins are sharp, and the cut of the coin is very ledgeable ,, i dont mess with anything that is scratched knicked, or with lettering and coin features worn from use, so on that note ,if im getting ripped off ,, im having fun doing it ,,,and in the end ill have at least bullion value if nothing else heres one for ya i got a coin today a 1826 capped bust 50 cent piece today for 8 dollars other then it being slightly black the coin is beautifulall features on the coin are sharp and clear,,to me i did well, i looked it up one sold at an auction for over a grand in efine condition , seeing the coin mine was in way better shape ,, so i go bye those things when i really want a attaboy for what i bought
COuld you possibly post pictures of the 1826 1/2? I'm quite interested! If it is EF and without problems it certainly could be worth anywhere from $100 to $1500. Bust Half collectors collect based on which die marriage (which obv. and rev. dies were used for each coin) they came from. Since there are so few dies that were used it is a relatively easy task to differentiate which dies struck which coins. If the coin that was sold was properly attributed as one of the 2 or 3 rare die marriages of 1826, then a $1000+ price tag is reasonable in EF. Now if yours is not yet attributed, please post good close-up picturs of the coin and I can help you there. Basically, in the 1950's-60's, Al Overton began to try to determine which dies struck which coins and he began to assign numbers to each particular marriage for each year. Those numbers are now widely recognized and when you see a bust half for sale that is properly attributed part of the coins description will be something like "1826 O-112" or "1827 O-105". What those numbers mean is that Overton assigned them as the 12th die marriage of 1826 or the 5th die marriage of 1827, respectively. There are 20 distinct die marriages of 1826 and only 3 of them carry a premium, with only 2 of those carrying such a premium that they would sell for $1000 in EF condition (O-103 and O-115). O-114 is worth about $300-$500 in EF and all others are worth about $90-$150. (All prices quoted are from "The Ultimate Guide to Attributing Bust Half Dollars" by Glenn R. Peterson, 2004, so they are a littled dated, but still can be used as a good guide of relative value of different die marriages. Either way since you only paid $8 you got a good deal as long as the coin is genuine, which, unless it is slabbed, there is no guarantee of.
try these ,i dont take very good pictures ,i hope this is ok http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slideshow.jsp?mode=fromshare&Uc=15f2zc43.n1msmwj&Uy=-ot9h0x&Ux=0 also on the outer rim of the coin it saysfifty cents\C.R HALE ,THE C.R IS QUESTIONABLE ITS CLEAR BUT ITS SO SMALL ITS HARD TO SEE
Yes the AAW is ment to be that way... I would suggest one book for you....the Red Book...it has many photos like this and might help you alot! As for the photo...I can tell its a coin...but thats about all ;--) Speedy
What I said in the other thread was to NOT use the Red Book as a price guide...I don't think I have EVER said NEVER to use the Red Book....I do offen. Speedy
"also on the outer rim of the coin it saysfifty cents\C.R HALE ,THE C.R IS QUESTIONABLE " What it says on the edge is "Fifty Cents or Half a Dollar" The pic of the bust Half does appear to be EF.
yup thats what it says fifty cents OR HALF A DOLLAR plain as day without the looking glass, im such a duh sometimes,lol ,ty bz
I'm sorry, but the pic is too small for me to identify the Overton number. I reiterate, if it is genuine, then you got a fantastic deal on that one.
It's not quite that simple...I am using a 300 page reference book to attempt to determine which die pair was used to create your coin by looking at small differences in it from other halves from the same year; like where does star 1 (lowest left side star) point? Does it point directly at the center of a denticle, or at the upper portion, upper edge, lower portion, lower edge, or in between denticles. Then How closely does the I in pluribus line up with T2 in states? then where does star 7 point in relation to the denticles and in relation to the front of Liberty's cap. Next I'd look to see the star 8 to denticle and star 13 to denticle positions. That will narrow down the options greatly and then I can begin to compare the individual die markers for each of the possible die pairs to figure out exactly which one yours is. Basically, long story short, I need good full-sized photos of the coin to work with, it's not like the dies were numbered by the mint.
ok, star 1 is north and south at the top and bottom points,if the denticles are the lines around the coin,then going clockwise starting at the south end of the star the second point is in between the lines evenly,the I is even with the T in states,star 7 the point is even with line , star 8 the southern point is inbetween the word liberty and the cap portion above that,star 8 is slightly above the line and star 13 is slightly below,,, this is unreal ,interesting but seems way to forensic to me ,why the hell couldnt they just put a mintmark,lol i do appreciate your help though ,, i am learning so much in this forum, sorry but i take awfull pictures as you can see,my camera takes awsome pictures ,just not of coins,
hope this was enough info , i tried to download bigger pics in paint program but the file was too big and im not sure how to reduce it