Always using the full wheat lines on the reverse is not always a good guide. Die wear can affect this area as well. With that said, what is the grade of this coin?
I say what you are calling a weak strike, is really a worn out die, but same diff, anyways the coin is a VF, cleaned net F. But it's a 13, a common common date so toss it and go get yourself a nice MS60 for around $30 or a AU for $25 or an XF for $17.
I have a story that is kinda funny. I was cleaning out my closet a couple of moths ago and I found one of those bags that you like carry to the beach etc. and when I flipped it upside down a 1913 penny fell out! Oldest coin I have ever found.
Rlm That 14-D of yours is in my safe isnt it......geez, I need to get with the program. You have the patience of a saint.:bow:
Coop, You need to show up at the Scottsdale show and say hi and introduce yourself, we have a whole AZ contingent here.
Hey -- have you been reading my mind? On wheaties (correct me if I'm wrong) I tend to look at both: cheek/jaw separation; and lines in the wheat heads -- and kind of average the two. Does that make sense (cents)? If so, the classical definition (as far as this semi-newbie knows) of wheaties are: VG: half the wheat lines show F: wheat lines worn but mostly (almost all? or all?) visible. VF: cheek and jaw separation, no worn spots on wheat heads. So, (wrt to the 1913 that started this thread) it seems to me that the front might be VF or maybe higher, but (at least over the internet, with my poor eyes) the back seem to me to be VG or lower. So, with my limited knowlege, if I were grading it for myself to decide how much to pay, I'd be thinking F at best. OK, experts . . . . how's that analysis (from someone who's desperate to learn how to do this better?) (I've left the "cleaning" part out of this, b/c I don't know enough to recognize it here)
High VG if it's not been cleaned. High VG if it's not been cleaned. Never a Fine in a million years because of the cleaning old or new.
So using your analysis, that 1955 would be what grade? The wheat lines are about half there. Therefore, it is VG? But the coin is full red and never been circulated. Have you ever looked at a 1922 plain (particularly the weak reverse)? Certified MS63 coins have little or no wheat lines and barely have any cheek to jaw separation. They were struck without much detail. However, because the detail is not and never was there does not mean that the coin should grade anything less than MS. What you are saying that is correct "how much to pay, I'd be thinking F at best." Even assuming that the coin has not been cleaned, you may well be correct there.
I'm guessing my take home lesson is: "my analysis is correct for the general case" but also: "I have to learn which dates are weak strikes"? Or is there something else, too? Thanks in advance
No need to be petty. Obviously everyone takes into account when a year is weak struck and is going to have mushy wheats anyway. And most people remember that when assigning a net grade for a coin.
Exactly....the 1913 is definately a technical VF-20. Separation between the cheek and jaw nails that. It's definately evident this is an LDS coin, which is somewhat rare for a 1913 as most are sharply stuck. People need to keep in mind that lighting plays a HUGE part of picture grading. I can make ANY brown coin looked cleaned with the correct lighting. Strong light has an ability to penetrate the surface patina and the camera brings out things that don't exist in hand. One thing I've learned over the years using photograding, don't rush to judgement or be so sure of yourself, lest you find yourself embarassed on occassion.
Hummm....is there separation between the cheek and jaw at all? I think I see a hair of separation. From the pics, IMO, that's a fairly lowish grade. I think that coin could be F-15 or VF-20 if there's ANY separation, I bet it's NGC.
HEHEHEHE....my trick coin is a 1925-D, it's AU-58 but novices tell me it's VG at best. LOLOLOLOL Your coin looks to be MS-63 RD.