Coin Care Chemical

I only use it on wheat cents. A Q-tip helps remove grime. Be sure to dry well before putting a 2X2. It will show if not dry.

 

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Since the demise of the original Coin Care and Freon TF IMO there never has been a suitable product for cleaning coins. You also have to take into consideration the possibility of affecting the delicate mint layer, imposing hairlines in soil removal, using too rough a chemical for a certain alloy, the possibility of removing surface metal in situations of advanced corrosion, etc. so since then in EVERY chain of posts you will read there is no effective way to clean/conserve coins. Who can argue - its complex. Again contact me privately and CHALLENGE ME - with the understanding some coins are best left alone, some coins the surface corrosion is too advanced and some coins have criteria that can not be removed like black spots on copper. Read the NGC Coin Conservation submittal criteria - my limitations ARE SIMILAR on what not to submit for conservation.

 

can you please post some pics of your "treatment" i am curious what it would look like??thanks

 

Oh wow. I had no idea this was such a heated and controversial topic, but it makes sense that people experiment on their own before seeking guidance. I better preface realllly good, here goes-


HI! I'm new and fairly nice and reasonable haha. I got Some very good information on this thread already but still need a bit of clarification- I am a firm believer in proper cleaning and conservation methods (I will explain why and how if requested) and I am interested in how certain stoddard solvents work on collectible coins, namely the op thread namesake (coin care) and Nevr-Dull, I'm asking here before experimenting. Assume we are not talking about Mint uncirculated coins or natural patina and toning. Also I am only interested on the effects to cuprous metals.

I know that if I want to stop/revert/strip certain damaging corrosion I can use a controlled electrolytic bath, but that is basically saying goodbye to patina. The ol' toothbrush/green scrubbie makes me cringe with the abrasiveness, ugh.

So what do the metal cleaners actually do, how fast, and can they be controlled?
Do they preserve patination and toning or act like the silver cleaners, (instantly and irreversibly pristine)?
Lastly would it be considered cleaned and ungradable by PCGS?
Thank you in advance for any insight you may have.

 

I just saw this thread today. First:

BadThad, posted: "For once I have to disagree with you Jim. IMHO, there are only two actions: CLEANING AND CONSERVATION. Cleaning is unacceptable in any form. It damages the coin and leaves tell-tail traces.

Conservation is market acceptable in that is leaves no trace or virtually no trace once it's done. Debris may be removed from the surface, but this does not constitute cleaning. NCS does this everyday....it is not any form of cleaning when done properly."

Get this straight: CONSERVATION IS CLEANING! To my knowledge, I'm the first person to introduce this next sentence into numismatics back in 1972: "When a coin is cleaned PROPERLY, you cannot tell it has been cleaned." It should have been obvious to anyone before me but apparently it was not as it seemed like everybody was cleaning coins back then. Furthermore, sometimes when a coin is conserved the results are not as expected.

I started reading this thread again up to the Penny Lady's post and will read more later. Remember, there is a large gap between the experienced/knowledgeable posters here and others. I'm one of the others.

I have put enough different chemicals on coins to fill a bathtub of containers. Lighter fluid has proven to be one of the useful products along with turpentine, mineral spirits, Goo Gone, etc. There is an entire range of coin cleaning products at the local food store. After Blue Ribbon became unavailable (I still have several bottles to use on special coins), I use Coin Care every day to clean and preserve coins of every metal. In over forty years, I have never had a coin harmed by this product except from bad technique; however, it will pick up dust, etc. It is easily removed and a fresh film can be applied. Too much oil is detracting.

BTW, anyone who says that making a coin more attractive to keep or sell is...ah, I'll just say leaving money on the table.

 

Great posts, many with completely different ideas and reactions. The gist of these posts (IMHO) is that inert oils should not really harm the coins, but any improvement of appearance is temporary. This is where the intent to deceive if the coin is sold relatively soon after the oiling. I also realize that any coins AU or above should never be oiled, but that the oiling can be done to lower grade coins to help clean them without harsh chemicals to improve their appearance. I've also learned that if I purchase a coin that looks like it has been oiled to use xylene to get rid of any residue. Since I store all my coins in non-pvc 2x2 flips and then put them in Dansco albums with a protective slipcover, as well as live in a dry climate area of the country, I feel that I'm protecting the coins as well as possible without resorting to chemicals or additives. Just my take on all the great posts. And I do really appreciate the learning curve.

 

Apparently, you missed some posted info from copper collectors.

whopper64, posted: 8165325, member: "The gist of these posts (IMHO) is that inert oils should not really harm the coins, but any improvement of appearance is temporary. [It all depends on what "temporary" means to you. Oil can remain on a coin for a very, very, very long time. Eventually, some oils turn into a thick dry crust.] This is where the intent to deceive if the coin is sold relatively soon after the oiling [Unfortunately, without intent , this opinion then implies that all Large cent dealers are crooks!] I also realize that any coins AU or above should never be oiled, [ABSOLUTELY FALSE! A opinion. Actually, the higher the grade - the more lustrous the copper becomes. Note: If "Red" copper is oiled to remove something, I remove the oil when done] but that the oiling can be done to lower grade coins to help clean them without harsh chemicals to improve their appearance."

 

First, temporary is temporary, permanent is permanent - lighten up Insider.

Second, Never said anyone was a crook, but selling of a coin without telling the prospective buyer that it has been oiled rises to shady practices - lighten up Insider.

Third, Too many distinguished members have stated that no coin should be oiled, especially higher grade coins. Just because you remove the oil when you're done does not mean that every other collector/seller does so - lighten up Insider.

 

Try doing what you'd like! I find that the majority need to learn for themselves. As a practicing scientist, I think outside the box, doing things that others wouldn't consider that don't defile basic laws of Physics, and learn from the commonly repeated efforts of others.

Mind you, it has taken me more than 80 years to try the varying products/practices of the believed majority, but usually it has only cost me the coins face worth.

JMHO

 

Darken up Insider :

Dear little whopper, you need to chill. When I or ANY OTHER Person sells you a coin, we don't need to tell you a darn thing EXCEPT how much of your money we're going to take out of your backside!

Darken up Insider:

As for third: At one time the "experts" thought the earth was flat. I suggest you do some experimenting on your own so you are not so gullible. An educated collector is the best collector. The best advice I can give anyone on this form is DON'T BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU READ, HEAR, or SEE until you can confirm it FOR YOURSELF! After all, there just may be a little misinformation in this thread.

Lighten up Insider:

PS I also need to apologize to you for my lack of clear English (imply vs said). Additionally, I DON"T REMOVE THE OIL I put on coins EXCEPT in the very rare cases I use it on "red" copper.

 

I'm hoping a chemist or two will pipe up with "yes, but..."

Pure saturated hydrocarbons (say, paraffin) are surely close enough to inert. They'll burn if you ignite them, but at room or storage temperature they'll have no effect on metal, at least on a timescale of centuries. Heck, we keep sodium metal under mineral oil.

 

Insider, you need to be a little more imaginative, and one thing I have learned from these threads is never buy a coin from the likes of you. And I don't believe most of what I see or hear on the internet; however CT is one place to learn and experience the knowledge of valid collectors (except for you). But that is the beauty of CT, one can tell the difference between those who are willing to help and inform, and those like you who think they know it all but have an extremely hard time with humility and genuine empathy. Also, your use of color and caps screams someone who needs attention and can't take any criticism or advice. Just so glad I'm not part of your family. So take a chill pill and take time to listen to others.

 

Insider screaming for attention by personal degradation (a harder word to misunderstand than the word "imply"):

Those who can buy and sell coins for a living do. Those who cannot teach. Most of us posting on CT try to be/are teachers. Any good teacher does not consider themselves to be a know-it-all. However, I can understand how someone less gifted than their teacher might consider them to be a know-it-all just because they actually do know a lot more. I cannot be any clearer than that.

As for listening to others, some comments (Not yours) and misinformation are not worth the time it took to write this.

 

And it wasn't worth the time to read your comments. Grow up and try to act like an adult. Constant shouting is not conducive to this forum. I've been fortunate to have had excellent teachers in school and college. You do not measure up to any of their standards.

 

You and everyone else calls THIS shouting. I call it making something very important BOLD so it will not be missed or misunderstood by folks who may be "challenged." Apparently, it does not work for everyone.

 

The only one who is "challenged" is your maturity and ego. 'Nuff said.

 

I can only speak for myself who tries to be forthright, as in my professions, a slip of the lip can really be expensive. My legalistic posts have been criticized, maybe justifiably so, but have saved me from adversity.

I personally have enjoyed the knowledge shared here by @Insider, regardless of presentation, and accept your admonishment? in same fashion. I trust others will also strive for clarity/understanding in correction.

I trust this post will not be received as anything personal, just a casual "pub" comment.

JMHO