Hi all, I'm new here and at collecting so I have a few questions. I'm sure most of these will be *duh!* questions, but please bear with me! I just introduced myself also, so if you want to take a look here's that link: http://www.cointalk.com/t101842/#post856231 1. So first question. I'm trying to collect all of the Lincoln Memorial Cents 1959-2008. I'm wondering, is there a definitive list of the what the set is? I can't find a list that has everything. Some say you don't need all 7 1982's some say you don't need small and large date cents... So what exactly constitutes a full, complete set of LMC's? 2. In reference to my last question. I noticed that up until 1976, San Fransico minted circulation cents, and after that only proofs. Are the proofs concidered part of a complete set? Is it possible to find proof coins in rolls? I'm on a tight budget, so if I don't have to buy coins, I'd rather not. Plus, I enjoy the thrill of finding something. 3. Yesterday I found a 1960-D cent that was amazing. It had mint luster all over and almost no blemishes. How can I tell if this spectacular penny was cleaned or if it is just a great find? 4. What is the best way to store my collection? I've been looking at getting a Dansco album for them. I have read that keeping your coins in albums can cause them to change color or affect them negatively. Is that true? Is an album a safe bet for long-term storage or should each coin get it's own flip? Are flips good for keeping coins safe? 5. As far as grading goes, I understand that MS means mint state, but how can people tell between good AU's and MS? I've seen an AU58 that was bright and shiny and an MS60 that looked almost black and ugly. How does a circulated coin look good and an uncirculated coin look terrible? Also, since MS coins are uncirculated would they be impossible by definiton to find in bank rolls? I've seen posters say they've found MS60's in Brink's boxes. I'm very confused about this issue! Thanks so much for everyone who has read all this! Any answer to any question is very much appreciated! I look forward to gaining more knowledge about collecting!
1. What you put in your set is up to you and you only. Some do only a date set where the Mint Marks don't matter some do a set with all common varieties and everything in between. If you look at the red book just pick what your wanting and you can always add the 7 82's later if you want. 2. Again what's in the set is up to you There are mint sets for most years excluding 82 and 83 I think and most proofs too. I usually do a unc set it's all unc's or a proof set is just proofs. 3. Years of looking at coins, reading books, and help from others. In the mean time post pictures here and we will help. 4. There's been many many posts about his and there is no "right" reply. The best I've heard of is this: Coins in AirTites, air tites in Intercept Shield box's with Desicant's and all that put in non pvc bags witht he air sucked out of them Arn't you glad you asked lol. But do a search here and you'll see plenty of topics about it. 5. Again years of looking at coins, books, ect... MS is for a coin that is meant for circulation not a proof. That coin can show no wear on it. Depending on the coin type it has different high points that will become more obvious to you on where to look later. Good luck and ask more if you want
You decide what is a complete set. That is the bottom line. Many collect the circulating coins (and not the proof) and call it a complete set. Some collect the proof as well to have everthing. A Dansco Album is a great for for storage and display (it is what I have). In it, there will be slots to fill.....fill every hole and you can have a complete set (the Danscos I've seen have all of the holes for the 1982 cents). Some of the Danscos include slots for proofs, some do not. Decide what you will do before you buy your album. It is VERY rare (I've never found one) to find a proof cent in a roll. I've found many proof halves in half dollar rolls, but not cents. Good luck, have fun (I know you will), and WELCOME to the forum! You will love it here.
1) Do some google searching, you'll find a list. To get started the easiest thing to do is buy a complete BU set for $20-$30. This will cover every business strike from 1959 up including the seven 1982 varieties. You MUST have all of the 1982's to make a complete set. As you become more experienced, you will realize MOST of the set will need to be upgraded due to poor strikes, late die states and spotting. You can take your time and seek higher quality coins.....but let me tell you....finding ultra high grade replacements is a LOT of work. Most of the BU Memorial cents (>99%) are crap. 2) The 1974-S is the last business strike year for San Fran, not 1975. Proofs should not be considered part of a "complete" Memorial set. They are part of a complete proof set, not a complete business strike set. Like the Memorial cents, the proof cents are not all created equal. It's pretty easy to put together a proof set, but the quality will be all over the map. 3) Recognizing cleaned coins takes experience. Chances are the coin you found is simply an AU red coin. These can be found in circulation with some hunting. 4) For storage I prefer Airtite brand holders. I put the Airtites into 2x2's and put those into 2x2 3-ring binder sheets for storage. Albums do not provide enough protection from air and moisture IMO. Copper is VERY susceptible to corrosion! 5) Recognizing AU/MS coins takes experience and even then we can get it wrong.....and so can the TPGs (Third Party Graders). It's not unusual to see an AU coin that's a LOT nicer than an MS60-63 coin. It's possible to find BU mint state coins in circulation. Just because it might have been though some hands, it can STILL be mint state. I do a lot of roll searching and I've managed to put together a complete roll set of BU Memorial cents. That is, I have a BU roll for each date and mint for every business strike issued.
Isn't there also a difference with the 2009 Mint Set Lincoln's compared to the business strike Lincoln's? With the Mint Set examples being satin, would those need to be included for a completed Lincoln non Proof set, or would those be a separate category.
And that there is a great example of: "you decide what the set is." You might collect each and every kind. You might collect all non-proofs. Or coins meant for circulation only. Etc etc . . . .
Sir I do not mean to jump on your threat however I am new on coin talk. I have some 1982 pennies if you would be so kind as to take a look at those, I'm not sure exactly what I have and if they are anything of interest if you could let me know please.
The set is what you want to make it. The only thing I will say is if you use a cardboard, widow slide based album, don’t put the Proofs in it. Long term storage prospects are not good.
It depends on your attention to detail and acquisitiveness. Some collect all varieties, some limit themselves to circulation strikes and what they can find in the wild. Just start where it feels good to you. I have 2009 centennial cents in proof version, circulation version, all mint mark versions and in addition I save nice circulated examples when I am coin roll hunting, just because I really like them. BTW I know this post is 10 years old. I hope you are still here.
Believe me, I have junk boxes of them. I still have my original Lincoln album filled with coins nearly wire brushed to death. Luckily these were all circulation finds already beat to hell before I "cleaned" them.
