Warmest Sunday -- and Happy Mothers' Day -- greetings to all!!! I am still a relative newbie to coin collecting and have been trying to read up on coin grading so that I can (someday) be an informed collector... and not just buy what looks "pretty" or "shiny". I understand that grading is a skill that requires a lot of time and experience to develop, so I'm not expecting to "master" it overnight. I have a few coins that I have been examining -- kind of as grading "test cases", I guess you could say -- and was wondering if anyone here might be willing to help me out by throwing in their two cents' worth, so I can get a feel for how close (or far off) my newbie-level grading abilities are. I have five "test cases", but I don't want to hog the Forum, so I'll just post two for now. Whatever information you would be willing to provide -- especially any specifics which led you to pick, say, VF-30 or -35 as opposed to XF-40... or even just VF over XF -- would be sincerely appreciated! Thanks a bunch!!!!!! - Andrew
Hi Andrew Even though grading is an art it is still subjectional,, everyone will have an opinion some will agree others will not, The 1907 indian, could either be net graded due to the damage on the obverse making it in my opinion a G-6 coin, or it could be graded a VG-8 damaged ,either way the coins value is affected. The SL shows considerable wear but maintains some eye appeal no big nicks or dings that I can see in the photo F-12 would be my opinion of grade on this coin, Like I said opinions will vary and a concensus can be made from that variety of opinions.
Hi Rick! Thanks for your input. I really appreciate it! I understand that grading is extremely subjective -- even though, with the TPG services, people spend a bunch of money on that subjectivity (although it's a very, very refined, and hopefully consistent, subjectivity). I'm just trying to see how far off base my "newbie grades" are versus those of other, more experienced collectors. I'm not sure what you mean by the "net grade" on the IHC. I was under the impression that a net grade was only given to coins that were cleaned or otherwise altered. Do you think this coin has been altered somehow?? (It might be. I personally don't have enough knowledge or experience yet to tell.) Or are you just trying to say that it has VG-8 level details, but they scratches and spot on the cheek lower the overall grade to just "good"? Hmmm..... I guess I'm still kind of confused about how grades work. Based on what I've seen/read, the VG level criteria state "The entire design is weak, but a few details are visible.", while the "Fine" criteria are: "A lot of the details are gone, but you can still see a good deal of the design." With the IHC, you can still clearly see a lot of feather detail (it's clearer with the coin in hand), and all the lettering is clear (except for the word "Liberty" on the headband). The details on the reverse are also (in my completely-unexperienced opinion) pretty strong, with almost complete horizontal and vertical lines on the shield and decent detail in the wreath components. Hmmm..... as I said, I completely understand and realize that grading is subjective and that two people might never agree on the same coin. I'm just trying to figure out what "a few details are visible" vs. "a lot of the details are gone" means. Well, that and all the other stuff, too! Again, thanks for your input!!! - Andrew
Hi Brocster, To help you lean more about grading you might want to pick up a copy of ANA Grading Guide or Photograde. The more practice you can get the more comfortable you will become with your own opinion. For me it's a whole different ball game trying to come to an opinion on a coin in my hand & a photo. Like Metalman said, "It's subjective" I think your SL Quarter would grade VF-20--25. No major distractions & good details on both sides.
KT, Thank you for your input and suggestions! I have seen a number of posts recommending the ANA Grading Guide and Photograde. At present, though, I'll just have to wait until I can afford them (especially the ANA guide!). I did take a look at a Red Book in a local bookstore and read through some of the sections where they have various grades and the key differentiating features for each grade -- it's just tough to remember it all (which is why I need to buy the book... I know! ). So I have been trying to determine grades based on the information I have found on the web along with what I remembered from those Red Book sections. It's admittedly not the greatest system, but you sure can't beat the price! Besides, if I think that my IHC and SLQ are both AU-58, then what's the harm?? (As long as I'm not planning on either buying or selling anything in the future! ) Of course, I could just send them off to SGS. I'm sure they'd both come back in MS-60 holders. And who knows... the SLQ might even be MS-60 CAM!!! Thanks, again, for your input! - Andrew
Hi Brocster In order for the IHC to make a fine grade the whole liberty on the head band must be visable, it can be weak but all the letters need to be readable, the best that the coin can make is VG-8 with at least three letters visable, in the pic I can only really see the top half of a few of the letters, this along with the obverse scratches is my reasoning for the grade given . The SLQ Knowtracks graded Higher than I did, and thats OK,He is probly closer to right than me ,, I may be low on this coin, but that is me I would rather be low by a photo than High. Rick
Hi again, Rick! Thanks for the additional details regarding the criteria for F vs. VG. I understand that determining a grade based on a single picture is not an easy (or necessarily fair) task. As far as "LIBERTY" is concerned, all of the letters are actually visible except the L and Y (and the T looks more like a Z -- at first I honestly wasn't sure what was written on the headband!), but I know it's not nearly as clear in the picture. And I agree that it's probably better to be more pessimistic than optimistic when trying to determine a coin's grade -- that way expectations can be more realistic. And just in case anyone's interested, here are two more coins for your perusal/grading: Thanks, again, for your input! - Andrew
what i would like to know is how do you take such perfect pictures,, i could really use the info ,they have got to be the best photoes ive seen yet ,,,, mine come out terrible, i try and try and they never get better ,,,, thanks
Hi mr22601! Thanks for the compliments regarding my pictures. I still have a ways to go, however, before they're "perfect". As for the "how," I just position a bright light source to the side of the coin (although ideally there should be two sources -- one one each side) at about the same level as the coin, and then I hold my camera directly over the coin. Just be sure that you're in macro mode -- most digital cameras today have some sort of macro button or mode -- otherwise the picture will either come out very tiny (since you'll have to be a few feet away from the coin in order to focus) or very out of focus (since you'll be too close to the coin for the "regular" mode to be able to focus at such a short distance). I think my camera's macro mode can focus down to 2", so I can get in pretty close. I'm still working on trying to get good pics of proof coins. Every time I try, I keep getting a reflection of the camera in the fields of the coin. Well, I hope that helped. - Andrew
If its just to use as a grading guide maybe you can find a cheap used 2-3 year old red book online at one of the booksellers.Bob
Hi Bob! Thanks for the tip. I had thought about buying an older edition of some coin books. I need to check the local half-price book stores first... maybe I'll get lucky, especially with the new 2006 Red Book coming out soon. We'll see.... Thanks again! - Andrew
