How to safely, naturally tone a coin

Thanks for posting your story, Boss. It must have been hard to get the coin back looking like that and no-grade to boot. I really can't add to the answers to your original question about re-toning. What interests me is how NCS handled your submission. It seems to me that you specifically asked for an expert examination of your coin and for a determination made as to whether conservation would help. It seems to me that they just applied whatever tarnish remover they use and this is the result.. ie, I don't feel that much time was spent examining the specimen first. Does NCS specifically state on their submission agreement that coins may come out worse than when they went in, that they may actually be ruined? Sorry about what happened.

 

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Thanks Ksparrow,
I think they do state this in some form of verbage, but my explict written and verbal instructions on the invoice was that grading at NGC was top priority and to conserve only if it would benefit (specifically for this coin, because I had my doubts about it benefiting). I was submitting other coins that needed conservation, so I was fine to have them evaluate this one. This is where I am frustrated. I will be calling them Monday and working to get a refund or partial buyback. Their customer service is quite good, so I think they will work out something. That is my beef with NCS is that I was a little guy to them (first submission) and I don't think they took the time to read my invoice carefully or properly evaluate this coin. I do find it interesting how several people who have replied have not read my post carefully (not referring to you Ksparrow) and thrown up an immediate negative judgement. SHOULD I HAVE CRACKED OUT THE COIN?? NO. However, no harm was done to the coin between the crack out and sending to NCS. That coin had deep previous hairlines that had toned over. I would think they use powerful magnification (100x+) to determine this kind of stuff. My loope only goes to 20 x magnification. I am learning all the time. I will eventually buy a better one and try to have them buy back on naturally tone and it will eventually look better. That is all I can do.:headbang:

 

yes that is why i say stay off cleaning

 

Spock "Stay off cleaning?" That sentence doesn't even make sense. Instead of jabbing and beating someone when they are down, read the posts carefully. I didn't clean my coin.

 

Intersting story I have no clue how to retone any coin



Jazzcoins Joe

 

Gotcha. I'm a Little testy about the beat down!. I'm sad enough about the state of these several coins of mine. I guess I got to let it go. I'd rather not sell a coin in this state. I'll try to naturally tone the best I can based on everyone's advice. I acknowledged my regrets and mistakes so I don't understand why someone posts: "yea, I agree- you are an idiot". I only want advice on how to make the best of the current situation. I should have prefeced the post with that. Please be kind.

 

Hey Boss, at least you do have a 1914-D, I only have the 1914. Who knows, in time it might tone and cover the marks again Ihope everything works out.

Shawn

 

Boss,
Even with high power 100X or more you can't differentiate them if the toning has filled or smoothed the hairlines or scratches. Think of a snow fall on a furrowed field. You couldn't tell if the furrows were there until the snow was removed. A simplification of course, but explaining what I mean.

Any 1914-D cent is a worthy item to have.

There is no clear cut delineation as to conservation of a coin compared to altering the surface of a coin , except that if professionally done it is "conservation"; if done by you, me or the general collector, it is "altering". Your experience narrows the difference even more so. You might obtain the book "Coin Chemistry" by W. W.. White to further your education on toning and chemical processes ( Amazon).

Jim

 

Thanks Jim. That is a nice reply from an experienced person. I am glad to here someone say it's not worthless (look at all the crummy stuff being sold on eBay now). I originally paid around $600ish. I would not sell as is. I will get it toned successfully one way or another. Even if I have to wait a decade!! I do have the "Coin Chemistry" book by Mr White and have read and re-read several times. He measures toning in nanometers and by weight. That's where I got the idea for raw/ new pennies in my ziplocks in which reside my IS box's (in which reside my coins in airtights or 2x2 IS flips). I know Doug thinks that's crazy but as I understand that's what IS product. It is impregnated copper which binds with sulfur and contaminants so it effectively removes them from the air.

 

Once the original brown patina is removed not much is going to bring it back beyond years of toning. Sulfer powder mixed with vaseline can turn it too black. Many people mess with cleaned coins and end up making them look even worse than when they started. You could try placing it on piece of oak plank and place it on your windowsill, however the sun tends to tone the high recesses of the coin more than the lower recesses. The area around the lettering will still be lighter than the rest of the coin. I've heard of people using the oak block/sun method with a piece of tissue with crushed matchheads in it, covered by a glass or shotglass but never tried it. Some people have even been known "bake" pennies in an oven. To my knowledge nothing but time will return the natural patina, and even then experts will still be able to detect the coin was cleaned.

I have an example of a cleaned IHC that was retoned in the sun on an oak plank. It may have made it look a little better but it still looks cleaned. I'll try to post a pic tomorrow.

 

Hi Boss, I think that given your explicit instructions to NCS, if indeed they do have good customer service they should do something to "make you whole." Seriously, they are consultants as well as conservators, and you asked for their professional judgement, not just a procedure. (as a physician, there are times when I ask a specialist to do a procedure only, and times when I ask for an opinion, and then a procedure IF NECESSARY. I believe your situation is analagous, especially since you made your request explicit).

An earlier post asked if NCS can remove carbon spots- yes they can, but the coin overall will look brighter, if much more presentable.

I would try the matchhead or other fast toning techniques first on a no-value coin, if you are so inclined- results can be variable and not necessarily attractive, from what I have read!

 

Good way to put it, and much more eloquently than I did at first.

Also, try a strong dandruff shampoo, it works in a slow, mild controlled manner. ( they contain sulfer )

But, I stick to the thought that a damaged coin is just that, damaged.

 

I naturally tone coins in 3 different ways.

1) Put in a Dansco Album and put it in the garage over the summer.
2) Put coins in an old empty cigar box and put in the garage over the summer.
3) Put coppers on top of my water heater for a couple months.

For item 2 & 3, check on them every weekend and flip accordingly to ensure toning on both sides. I've never toned a coin during the winter, it needs to be in the 80's with high humidity for me to get any activity. Sometimes, you don't get any toning at all.

 

I've been trying to retone a 1826 1/2 cent I bought , got it wrapped in tissue paper , 6 months later not much change , but if you want it to look natural you have to let nature do most of the work , mine is a touch darker maybe in 5 more years .
rzage

 

send it to me in my environment it will tone even in air tite in 6 weeks the only thing that will protect is IS and some machines

 

He ought to be cracking some heads. Boss, let me know if you want a referral. I'll talk to my friend, Guido.

Honestly, the squeaky wheel gets the grease. Nothing like going to the top on this one with a stern letter...

 

WTF??? Are chimichanga vapors good for preserving coins?

 

That's why he ought to go to the top on this, where they're presumably more concerned about things like their credibility, reputation, and trademark. Somebody at the bottom in the employ of that company has a little problem following customer-directions, don't they?

 

Heres a cleaned 1864 L IHC that spent pretty much the whole summer on an oak plank basking in the sunshine. It did darken considerably, however the recesses of the coin did not tone as much as the rest of the coin. Look at the recesses around the lettering, lady libertys ear and basically any low recesses of the coin. Those areas are much lighter than the rest of the coin.