Wouldn’t a cud of that size produce more of a weak area on the reverse? Doesn’t seem much detail Is missing opposite the “cud”.
Seems to be to shallow for a cud just an opinion. I tend to agree with MM paddyman but of course I'm not as well read as you two.
I'm thinking it's PMD and been added to the coin well after it left the mint. The entire area where the so called cud is is lighter than the rest of the coin. It should be higher and more rounded as well.
I think it's meant to look like a cud, it's not a cud. doctored coin in my opinion and it's added metal. no idea what the silverish areas around the added metal or on the reverse are suppsoed to be. If it was a cud there would be much more weakness on the reverse opposite the cud. it also connects to the rim but if a true cud it should also interrupt the rim otherwise, a die really doesn't break like this appears. I'm not a professional but I'd call it post mint damage and suspect from what I'm seeing. Maybe done with a brass or bronze repair putty???? Not sure. possibly the silverish areas are where the putty was at some point before putting some work on it, also I don't like the lines on this supposed cud following a mechanical pattern clockwise. It' just looks really wrong for what I would expect to see if legit to me, again, not a professional, just my 2 cents.
I think the silverish color is attributable to an attempt to highlight the areas by using enhancement techniques, but I could be wrong.
I've been studying this coin, and i believe someone tried to make a fake error by applying solder. I think thats why the coin has the silver tone, I don't know but it's the best I can come up with
Solder, the lighter area around the "cud" is where the flux melted and spread removing the oxide layer from the coin (That's what the flux is for to clean the metal and remove oxides so the solder bonds better) Since then the coin is probably retoning but still lighter than the rest of the coin where the oxide was not removed.
Correct. The color of the coin itself is off, too, as if it had been subjected to some serious heat. To solder something to a copper cent it would take a few minutes to get the copper hot enough to make the solder flow. Leaded solder melts at about 360 degrees F. Lead free solder melts at about 428 to 464 degrees F, depending on the type. You would have to get the cent hotter than that to get the solder to flow. You have to crank your iron well above the melting point in order to get the surfaces involved to accept the solder. It also depends on WHAT you're soldering.
Cuds are normally smooth and of uniform thickness - the manufactured one above seems to have been filed down (see the marks at the shoulder)
