Hi all. What would YOU buy as a 1857-1889 gold dollar in a type set? Would you go with a high grade 1879-1889, like a 1881, a proof, or maybe an 1857-D or 1861-D in a lower grade? How about the S's? They are sharply defined. What makes a good type set? Key Date coins in highest grade you can afford? I'm patiently waiting Cave Troll's reply via email, but I am curious to see as how most of you approach this. Thanks again everyone who has made recommendations in books, they are excellent and enjoyable.
I collect types and usually go for the best coin I can find for the lowest price , meaning common date coins , but it's your collection so you get to make the rules . Sometimes I would rather go for a better date but the cost of good coins bring me back to the common dates . But if I can get a better date coin for close to the same money I'd go with the better date . Meaning take your time on your larger purchases and look around . rzage
Jesh, I don't collect or really follow Gold, but if it were me I would save up and buy a heavy coin, a high grade key date. If memory serves it's the 56D, 60D and 61D that are the keys in that series. I recently bought a 1916 Standing Liberty Quarter in a pretty high grade because it was a "deal" and I am regretting not saving up for a 65+ coin already.
My idea of a "type set" is just that...an example of each type of coin. So, what I would look for if it was me would be the best example I could of a common date. I would want the best example I could find. A more key date doesn't make a type set any more complete in my eyes. So, I would pick up the nicest common date you could. But, that's just me. I do however think that "type sets" are the most customizable kind of set you can put together. Everyone has their own definition of what belongs in them. If you want key coins in your type set...then go for it. For example, I personally don't want proofs in my type sets...even for modern coins. Although the proofs are typically more attractive, my idea of a type set has to do with major coin types and varieties that were issued for circulation.
For investment purposes key dates make sence , but since I collect for enjoyment , I would buy 10 or 15 real nice types for the price of a '16 SLQ , that's what makes collecting such a great hobby , we each make up our own rules . rzage
Part of it comes down to this : What is it you want to get out of this hobby ? For me, I go for the best example of the type I can find regardless of date. So for G$1s, branch mints are out. I have seen Southern Gold (C and D) sitting around in certain dealer's cases for a long time. There is a very limited, specialized market for such things. I personally don't get overly excited about stratospheric numbers like 68. You pay a HUGE premium; do you really get payback in eye appeal ? Maybe, maybe not. GRADE FOR YOURSELF and don't be hypnotized by exotic high grades. An MS64 coin should be a beautiful coin. I save the difference 'twixt 64 and 68 and buy more coins of other types. Regarding proofs : grading these is different from business strikes. Learn up before you throw down. I don't buy 'em from photos. Not all proofs are great coins. I passed on several proof type III G1$s last weekend at the Houston show.
A few other things about these, Jesh... They are notorious for die clashes. Maybe you consider that a positive, maybe not. They are notorious for poor strikes. Never a positive. Shop shop shop. Be very picky with these. G$1s... I like 'em. I think they're cool. :thumb:
The coin that (a) appealed to me the most (I tend to buy for eye appeal first, everything else second), and (b) fit best in my type set. Personally, I chose a prooflike 1889, as I always wanted a proof gold piece, and will unlikely ever own one in a state of preservation that would appeal to me (unimpared), but you can find these late dates very prooflike with some patience. For some it's "rarity". For others it's "a look" (grade, toning, etc.). For others it's "future value". For others it's "first year of issue". And you know what, they're ALL right! That's really a tough question to answer because I think everyone should define sets (and what appeals to them) for themselves...however, I'll try and take a stab: In most sets, I find matched sets with a similar look and grade to be the most appealing -- but type sets are different, as many of the early types are out of my league even in VG.... So, for my type set, it's all about eye appeal within a price range. For modern coins and coins back to about the 1850's that means mint state in virtually all series. For older coins, I have to purchase more worn specimens in order to reach my goal and remain within my budget. Have fun...>Mike
This is why I have now have 5 sets going 1 Set of amazing SLQs (63+FH), 1 Set of Circulated SLQs, Circ Walkers, Cirs Lincolns and Circ Liberty Nickels. Plus the purchase of every circulated 1928-S SLQ on the planet. And 90% rolls because I hoard them haha.
Sounds like a awesome collection would love to see those SLQs I've got 3 . '17-P Type 1 MS64-FH , 1920-MS-63 AND A '29-S FH at least NGC calls it a FH .:headbang: rzage:whistle:
