This is a coin that I'm trying to work a deal on. The pics were emailed to me and I don't have the coin in hand. It's in PCI plastic and I'm not too sure how they are. A grade and value of this coin would be appreciated. I'll reveal the grade after a few opinions. Thanks............John
I'd call it G6 or so. I would be very careful with this coin. They commonly have an altered mint mark because of their value. I would be skeptical of PCIs ability to sniff out a fake. I'd say the coin is worth around $2500 or so, maybe upwards or $3000 if it's nicer than the pics look (they aren't the best). Again, I would be very skeptical of this coin since it is in PCI plastic. I would have an expert look at it in hand before you buy it.
The lower side of Fine. The hairline around the face gets a little weak for a true Fine-12, and the left wing on the reverse is weak. If 12 is Fine and 8 is VG, then this is a 10.
This is an easy coin to authenticate ,a closeup of the word liberty is needed , 1. the foot of the R in liberty is a die chip , the T has a raised diagonal line through the top of the letter , these are noticable down to the lowest grades . rzage
The question I would be more inclined to ask is how well do you know the person you are buying from and what is their return policy ? If you know them well enough to trust them and they have a no questions asked return policy then you can safely buy the coin. If not - then you can't.
Thanks everyone. PeaceJoe nailed it . GD ,The dealer that has it is good friend of a family member.There would be no problems if I decided to return it. Rzage, I will have my brother loupe it up to check the diagnostics. Thanks again ............John
Is there a pretty good size rim hit at about 5 o'clock? I wonder if that would BB this coin at a top tier TPG or if it just looks bad because of the angle.
Interesting! I just got this one in this week: This one isn't as nice as yours, I don't think. It's dark, but it's in an ANACS holder. Plus, I got it for a good price.
Regardless of what the slab says, PCI isn't the most reliable when it comes to accurately grading. I feel this coin is overgraded.
Are you sure the slab and the coin you received are real? The pictures are really small on my monitor and I can't enlarge them, but the coin looks fake to me. Hopefully I am wrong on this.
It looks like it has one, but I dount that would BB a 93-S. A common date? Yep, a 93-S? Doubtful. Remember that harshly cleaned F details 1916 SLQ I showed you guys in a top tier slab graded VF30?
Am I sure? No. But I'm 99.5% sure. I know they only used 1 obverse and 2 reverse dies, and both the obverse and reverse have characteristics of genuine dies. Does this guarantee it's genuine? No. But my opinion plus that of ANACS makes me reasonably certain. I'll be taking it to shows in the near future to sell it, so that will give me my definitive answer.
Zane , what makes you think counterfeit , the MM is centered but to me looks a little tilted , aren't they supposed to be centered and straight . rzage
Okay. Here are the R and T. If you're looking for the "rabbit ears", I believe them to be there. By the way, the black thing in the pic is the pointer on my microscope, and any hairline scratches you see are on the case.
I was more concernened with the T , There should be a die crack in the middle of the top of the T , which I can't see in your pics , Also the downturns at the ends of the top of the T has the right side on yours as the longer one , on the one I'm looking at the right side should be the longer , since only one obverse die was used I would be leary . JMO rzage
The 2nd edition , Official Guide to Coin Grading and Counterfeit Detection . Put out by PCGS , Edited by Scott A. Travers , text by John W. Dannreuther . Sorry no scanner . rzage