I found some great, fair, sellers on ebay. I've also seen those that most likely buy slabbed details coins, crack them out, and then sell them as raw, uncirculated original coins. It's always buyer beware.
I use the red book as a guide and ebay for the sold part. just because those prices are out there don't mean a coin will sell for that price again and rock bottom any coin is worth what a person is willing to pay no matter what price guide you use
I've virtually always used the advanced eBay function for completed sales, which I've used as a base for Craigslist transactions, with a fee correction multiplier. I've never had a problem selling volume quality material at less than any credible eBay seller. I've decided my net purchase cost for quality (i.e. Fine+) pre-1965 Silver coins will probably not get improved much in the near future, so I placed several ads, and was inundated with 5 figure offers, with the lowest being 19 times face, right now. I pulled all of my "loss leader" ads, as the market had recovered to a point where buyers are receiving quality dimes, quarters, halves for less than spot, being elated. I believe that anyone who doesn't consider eBay as a premium resource, is missing an opportunity. JMHO
If you know what you're doing, and what real world prices are, you can selectively - meaning now and then and IF you get lucky - buy coins on ebay. Problem is, most people don't know what real world prices are, most people can't correctly grade coins or judge the grade assigned by the TPGs. The additional problem is, even if you do know what you're doing, most BIN items are grossly over-priced. And in the auctions, you have people bidding against you that do not know what they are doing, so you're almost never going to win an auction without over-paying.
Yeah, you have to sift through all those pricing problems on ebay. But with some patience, and with some good photos... they are out there. Even David Lawrence has an ebay page. It’s easier to buy his coins on ebay than his own website.
Aside from this question being loaded at both ends, there are answers that can assist in you determining a value of a coin. Although you and others mentions Greysheets, USA Coin Guide, NGC, PCGS, Heritage Auctions and even Ebay, none of these will agree and ALL of them will have different values. The reasoning here is Greysheets, USA Coin Guide, NGC and PCGS ALL take information from sales on Ebay. In case some may not realize (and some sellers on Ebay don't), Ebay is NOT a retail site and does not reflect the real value of a coin since buyers seek discounted prices here. Now, Heritage Auctions is a better source but, still not great as the people that buy here have money yet, most will pay whatever to get the coin even if the cost is above is "so called" appraised value. This means this is the HIGH side of values and not true either. Then, you have two New players in the game such as CAC and MAC which appear to have better methods of determining value using Population reports but, they also charge money for "confirming" a Grade that has already been determined by a NGC. PCGS or ANACS which they state adds value to the coin but, it really doesn't. So, in closing, you may any or all of these prior mentioned for attempting to value a coin but, if you are not selling and keeping them anyway, it doesn't matter much except to portfolio standards. Other than that, just beware of high prices and don't be swayed by sellers that price high and explain the difference on bullion prices, interpretation of rarity or scams such as the recent, "Emergency Production" for 2020 P Silver Eagles. If you read the letter from the US Mint that everyone references, it does not state anywhere in the letter about an Emergency. It does state safety reasons and that the remaining production was transferred to the Philadelphia Mint to complete the process as required by law and NOT an Emergency to get Silver Eagles to the public as many are stating and capitalizing on by charging higher prices that are fraudulent and false. I hope this has help a little. Good luck and be cautious.
I tell you how I would do it... PCGS priceguide of $65. Also through the app... latest auction results of $36, $45, $41. I looked at some BINs... many at $44-$50. Since there are so many out there on true auction, I would put them all in my watch list and see what they start selling for. Then make my move on an auction or a BIN/make an offer.
That's because the more unrealistically high a BIN price is, the longer it will sit there. Fairly-priced BIN listings will sell more quickly, and bargain BINs will be snatched up moments after they appear. That's if you're looking for available items. Search Sold auctions, ignoring the ones where a Best Offer was accepted (or using a tool to find the actual accepted price), and you'll get rid of a lot of the bias toward high prices.
There are many times I have bought coins then retailed later on cost plus 50-100 pct. shows or online - sort of like a coach who is a talent prospector I have found some deals.
Price guides are just that. GUIDES. Any info that is not in "real time" is going to be old. Last week's prices may not be good this week because of the rising and falling of precious metals, for one thing. Monthly magazines help to some extent but you have to remember that their info is old, too, because of their printing lead time. Even greysheet. Besides, greysheet is so darned expensive to subscribe to from what I understand...I think you're better off checking real time prices from dealers and auction houses.
CAC isn't new at all and only does PCGS and NGC. It is widely accepted and highly respected in the market unlike basically all of the other stickers
Yeah, one of the things I would always do is look at the seller's history of accepted offers and see how low they were willing to go. Problem is, again, if they're willing to go too low, the first person who gets a lowball offer accepted will probably clean them out. (I've been that person once or twice.)
As a newbie, I'm trying to get a handle on what causes price fluctuations. What might cause the ups and downs, such as: https://www.pcgs.com/pricehistory#/?=7411-67