Since the Morgan dollar is one of the most popular coins, and we get lots of questions about grading them - I thought this may come in handy for some folks. Grading Morgans
Good article, Doug. Now if we can only get those eBay sellers to read it and stop listing their VF-20s and AU!
Good article and good pictures. No mention of toning, which often shows up on BU silver coins. Suppose we have an coin with lots of toning around the edge and even onto the face of the coin, but no wear and luster present. If it will grade MS65 on wear and luster, how will the toning affect the grade. Would the grading be reduced or is this in "the eye of the beholder"?
From a technical aspect toning does not affect the grade of a coin one way or the other. But it can affect eye appeal greatly and eye appeal is a part of the grade. If the toning is thought to be attractive it may actually bump the grade up. If it is unattractive it can bump the grade down. So yes - it is subjective.
I looked at those definitions. They dont tell anything useful. Heres what Im saying. PCGS might grade a coin MS-64. On an 1880-O, MS-64 is $1200. MS-63 is $400. How do you tell MS-63 from MS-64???? I have some slabs by lower-tier grading companies that are MS-63. The coins meet the grade. Very nice luster. shiny smooth surfaces with moderate bag marks. But I have a slab marked MS-64. Meets the grade. Or maybe its MS-63, not MS-64. But what would be the difference? The rules in grading are TOO LIBERAL. THEY need to be more specific. How do you really tell the difference? I have a theory. MS-63 is when the bag marks are on the flat surfaces around Liberty' head. MS-64 is when the smooth surfaces are clean, and the bag marks are on the head, in the are of the neck, lower face. I have a theory that sometimes bagmarks are not really bagmarks. If you look closely, what appears to be bagmarks on libertys face might actually be imperfections from the die. Bottomline: The hobby needs more specifics. We need some AUTHORITY in the hobby to define MS-63 and MS-64. Definition would be number of bagmarks and Location of bagmarks. On the rare dates, the jump in price is huge. We need some conformity
What you are saying you need is the ANA Grading Guide. It gives you what you are asking for. Problem is - none of the grading companies use it or follow their standards. Each grading compnay has IT'S OWN standards. But when people are trying to learn how to properly grade coins and begging for information and comparative pictures available on the internet - well you take what you can get. It is also extremely wise for everybody who is learning how to grade to read absolutely EVERYTHING they can on the subject. To learn how to grade the same way that a professional grader does it - you would either have to spend your lifetime doing so a bit each day, or look at 100 - 300 coins each and every day for several years. To learn how to grade properly and accurately you need to look at literally tens of thousands of coins. So every bit of information you can find on the subject - will be helpful.
Photograde is a good book for learning to grade coins up to MS60 - but that's it. The book has no descriptions & no pictures for coins that would grade above MS60. It is for learning how to grade circulated coins ONLY ! The ANA guide covers coins in ALL grades.
Doug, do you have a Morgan collection ? I'd be kinda surprised if you do, since your tastes seem to be more towards the arcane and exotic, unless you're one of those collectors who has dozens of different collections. About a year ago I looked at Morgans pretty hard, starting compiling information on prices, etc., but I reluctantly decided to indefinitely defer collecting them. My coin budget isn't big enough at this time. They are magnificent coins, though, certainly deserving of their popularity.
I use the ANA grading guide when grading coins. I am far from being an expert when it comes to grading. Heck, at a coin club meeting, a member passed some slabbed Morgans and covered the descriptions, and each of us have to grade them. I had a MS63 grade for MS66, an MS65 for an MS63, and so on. And I was cheating, using the grading guide. However, grading Morgans at 60 or above is very very tricky. The descriptions are not black and white. Even grading Morgan dollars below MS60 can be tough. I love to talk to an expert to know the difference.
ana grading guide/grading morgans Since I dont have the ANA grading guide, and dont know if or where it is on the internet, can somebody post a reply here, and tell me how ANA defines MS-63 and MS-64 on a Morgan dollar? When some of you say, it takes looking at hundreds and thousands of coins, I understand what you're saying, but I dont agree. If you grade hundreds of Morgans, you're going to have hundreds of inconsistent grades, and hundreds of sliders. I am tired of hearing this word "slider." If you buy a high grade coin, when you go to sell a slider, the dealer buying it is going to slide it downward. Please help me out. what does the ANA grading guide say for MS-63 and MS-64?
I used to collect original GSA CC Morgans and exceptional examples of other dates & mint marks. And I had a moderate collection of them when I was young. But after over 40 yrs of it, I gave up collecting US coins a couple of years ago. I now only collect world coinage.
Here is my opinion on PCGs... I believe that certian scarce issues within a series are held to a tighter standard..... Such as a Washington 55d, this coin is bagmarked to death typically, and quality is very very poor. Not a single coin exists in ms67. I sent one that had a damn good shot. This coin has superb fields, strong luster and is almost mark free, which is unheard of for a 55d... PCGs gave it a ms66. I have sent in some others that compared to other years of silver Washingtons, the coins were I thought lock ms66's, but all three came back in 5 holders. PCGs is very tough on the 55d. There are many many nuansances of any given series and IMO PCGs takes this into account, when one learns these about any given series then can they examine a coin as a PCGs grader might and make a purchasing decision from that prospective. I specialize in Franklins, and I truely believe I can grade as well if not better then what I have seen from them, though as you know, there is a level of subjectivity to any opinion. Many factors go into PCG's thinking on a coin.... Here is what I have discovered with many many submissions over the years.. 1. PCGs hates haze 2. PCGs hates dull coins 3. Dark toners can also be a negative 4. They love strong luster 5. they love a sharp, bold, strong strike 6. baggy coins or hairlines are a negative. 7. for super color coins, they may give a bump up in grade. 8. the bigger the coin, the more bagmarks you may get away with and still get a ms65. 9. If the coin has super luster, hit free and some nice attractive toning, it becomes a ms67 candidate, such as my 56 Frankie that was pulled from a mint set.. None of this really answers the concern you bring up, what constitutes the difference between a ms63 and a ms64... Since humans are involved I don't think it is possible to ever get a group of experts to agree.... I can say that MS63 coins tend to be baggy, with hits that are noticable and considered distractions, they tend to have haze, dull unattractive toning, hairlines that are easy missed by the novice grader (hairlines are a grade killer).... The best advice I can give, is to simply purchase the grade of coin prior to the huge jump in price.. And if you do buy the higher graded more expensive coin, study it closely and ensure you come to a agreement with the assigned grade, regardless of who's holder it might be in.. HepKitty
There is no on-line version, you have to buy the book. It can be found easy enough on Amazon or in most coin shops. You would want the newest version, the 5th Edition, last published in 1996. I'm not sure what you mean that you don't agree that you have to look at thousands of coins in order to learn how to grade properly - for it sounds like you do when you say - " If you grade hundreds of Morgans, you're going to have hundreds of inconsistent grades, and hundreds of sliders." That is exactly correct. The reason it is correct is because that's not enough coins - it literally takes grading thousands & thousands of coins to become accurate & consistent. It is not something you can learn in a few months - it takes years. And lots and lots of practice. One of the best things a collector can do in order to learn how to grade properly is to attend the grading classes held by the ANA every year. You get hands on experience and coaching from some of the most experienced professional coin graders there are today - people who have done it for a living for 30, 40 or 50 years. You also need to realize that each coin series has different standards when it comes to grading. You do not grade a Mercury dime the same way you grade a Morgan dollar. There is no single standard for MS63 & MS64 - they are different for each coin. But I will give you a word for word example for a Morgan dollar. There are 4 different criteria. MS64 Contact Marks - May have light scattered marks, a few may be in prime focal areas Hairlines - May have a few scattered or a small patch in secondary areas Luster - Average, full original Eye Appeal - Pleasing MS63 Contact Marks - May have distracting marks in prime focal areas Hairlines - May have a few scattered or a small patch Luster - May be original or slightly impaired Eye Appeal - Rather attractive Now, even given the information above you also have to know which portions of the coins devices are considered to be the primary focal areas and which are the secondary focal areas on both the obverse and reverse. This is illustrated with pictures in the book. So as you can see, it is not quite as cut and dried and many would like it. This is why it requires experience along with book knowledge. And it must also be taken into account that coins from each different year and each different mint in that year are not graded the same. Certain allowances are made for strike and quality of luster - you have to know which get which allowance if any. Grading is not something simple that you just pick up - you have to be taught. Yes you can teach yourself, but it may take much much longer to do so than it would if you had an experienced grader teach you. Hope all this helps.
Everything I learned about grading was self taught. What I learned from PCGs grading was with many submissions, and then I point blank asked a certian high ranking bird over there what gives, and HepDaddyHall gave me some answers that have proven to pay off for me... Those answers I shared in my previous post.....however, even the list I made is subjective...
Honey, I grade you a Ultra GEM MS67FM+ (Full Mustache), a bag mark or 2 keeps you from Monster GEM MS68, plus, you could use some toning, get out in the sun! = MS67FM+