What is the Value of a "Details" Graded Coin

I'd appreciate comments from the experienced collectors here as to how one values a coin that a TPG assigns a grade of say, AU Details? The details could be cleaned or damaged. But still has good eye appeal.

So if you wanted to buy an AU Details coin would you bid at AU 50 or high XF or what?

Thanks in advance and Happy Father's Day to all the dads!

 

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In the case of US Commemoratives, I would bid an significant reduction. I'd knock off at least half, depending on the rarity of the example.......

Echo above. Happy Fathers Day fellows.

 

I personally would knock it down 2 grades, depending on Rarity or how bad you want the coin in your collection, I am sure opinions will differ with many here but your thinking of AU 50 or XF seems fair and logical to me and like I said it depends on the coin, you can check Ebay for what similar coins have sold for, good luck and welcome to CT

EDIT: meant to say fine to XF not AU 50, Happy Fathers Day

 

I have been the fortunate recipient of some affordable fine coins due to the details grade. I love them..... But the price advantage you should expect is commiserate with the value of the coin really. Then you have to judge just how egregious the details or damage is. It just comes down to what a person is willing to accept.... Without the details label, the coin below is an 11k coin. It sold for half that due to the details label.

 

It all depends on the coin in question and welcome to CT.

 

Like @green18 , I shoot for 50%, but most sellers must think 'Details' means it has awesome details. Most of my details coins were either bought at scrap prices, or at a significant discount. Others were bought where I either didn't notice, or couldn't see a problem in the images (non-returnable auctions ). The one coin I bought as a graded details and still paid a decent sum was my Hawaiian commem, and at the time I paid only a little over half CDN.

 

Welcome to CT @Aksully. I usually buy raw coins, but if I see a details slabbed coin that I like and it has eye appear without the detail affecting the overall look, and it is priced lower than others, I buy it, or at least put in a bid. If it is a BIN (buy it now) coin with a "make offer" I usually offer $20 to $30 less and they frequently come back with a counter offer of less than their asking price. I've never bought a BIN for the asking price. Good luck.

 

Here is a details coin that I have:

https://www.cointalk.com/threads/1838-capped-bust-half-dollar-gtg.356511/

Only one person said it looked details to them... and naturally, that was after the reveal.

This coin in AU50 has a PCGS priceguide of $425. Most people said XF45-40 which would be $300-$275. I got it for $175 because of details.

I’ve seen other detail coins which I wouldnt touch with a 10 foot pole.

 

I don't own a details coin. I don't even look at them when I'm buying.

 

I’d only look at problem coins if there’s a type which is prohibitively expensive. E.g. I am still missing a classic head Cent (1809-1814) for my US type set and I wouldn’t mind buying one with env. damage at a significant discount. I’d not even look at a coin which was polished, whizzed, holed or otherwise damaged (graffiti/fingerprints/ex-jewelry etc).

 

Every coin stands on it's own. You can't set a value across the board. Details graded or not, every coin has a different value to different people and at different times.
With that said, pretty coins bring more than ugly coins, even if they have problems.

 

I’m with @Collecting Nut

Details coins will be a real pain when it comes time for me or an heir to sell them.

 

Sounds exactly like me.

 

You sure got that right! My wife knows nothing about coins, except how to spend them. Haha, just joking. She pretty good in that area but she knows nothing and understands the same with collector coins. I showed her a coin that was on CT by a 2 plus year member. I said nothing and asked her about it. She said it looks damaged, which it was. A showed her another coin the same day and she said it looked like a spender. It was a very nice lamination error. Oh well, at least she got the damaged one. Lol

 

Actually, I don't either, but sometimes something drops into your lap, at an extraordinary price, and you can't resist...........

 

1895S Morgan I'd buy a details and still pay big bucks. All depends on the coin in question.

 

Depends a lot on the coin. Ive only bought details coins in the draped bust half eagle series. Ive found that what the details grade is doesn't matter in that series. What I mean is that whether the coin is VF details or UNC details they usually go for around the same price. That price being about what the worst graded coin in that date would sell for. If an 1806 G3 is 3K, then a VF or UNC details 1806 would also sell for around 3K (Cited from: https://www.cointalk.com/threads/what-is-the-value-of-a-details-graded-coin.362075/)

 

Depends a lot on the coin. Ive only bought details coins in the draped bust half eagle series. Ive found that what the details grade is doesn't matter in that series. What I mean is that whether the coin is VF details or UNC details they usually go for around the same price. That price being about what the worst graded coin in that date would sell for. If an 1806 G3 is 3K, then a VF or UNC details 1806 would also sell for around 3K (Cited from: https://www.cointalk.com/threads/what-is-the-value-of-a-details-graded-coin.362075/)

 

There's no real rule as details coins aren't all the same. Holed, whizzed, reengraged type things generally get a bigger discount than a cleaned coin that doesn't look bad or a borderline questionable color. Some details coins will only get a small fraction of the price while others may get nearly full price

 

Really depends on the coin. These coins are both VF details.

The first one (from Stacks) has a dig on the obverse, a couple edge bumps, and a few scratches on the reverse. The damage is very minor, especially at this grade level, and the surfaces are otherwise choice and as original as they come, so I would be willing to pay 80-90% of problem-free value. It probably wouldn’t sell for that at auction because most collectors are incapable of looking beyond the “Details” label. It would have much less trouble selling for that raw.

The second one, well... I’d place a value of 10-20% of problem-free value.

Both have the same “grade”, but they are nowhere near the same quality nor value. It takes a lot of experience to holistically determine how much the damage affects the value. There really isn’t a set rule for it, and there can’t be.