I've posted these two buffalo's before. They were discovered by my grandmother and me in an old pocketbook of hers in 1975. I have had them ever since. As you can see in the pix there is no luster on the coins. The toning is not attractive in my eye. As a matter of fact, I wouldn't be surprised if much of the toning was from exposure to cigarette smoke back in the day. I don't believe they are in any worthwhile condition to submit for grading, although they are not terrible. I think the '35 is better than the '25. That said, do you all think an acetone bath would hurt or would they benefit from it? FYI, the scratch on the '35 reverse is on the holder, not the coin.
A short acetone bath won’t hurt them any. You might try a little acetone on a q tip on a small area and see what happens.
Acetone should be OK, I would soak them overnight myself and then use a very very soft artist brush to just sweep over the stained area ( while the coin is covered by the acetone) to lift any soluble nicotine residue off the surface. Do not rinse the coin with water at all, just hold it vertical by the edge and most of the acetone flows off, and then continue for a minute to allow all of the acetone to evaporate. No open flames in the room ! Jim Of course if it is still there, most likely it will stay.
Yes, 100%. If it actually is nicotine staining or a nicotine film on the coin then acetone might remove it.
I do believe that a bath in the acetone wouldnt do any harm what so ever...but thos dark lines are in the alloy not just on the surface. Like a woodie Lincoln or Indian cent Buffalo nickels also come or can have that wood grain apperance. I've had many like that some more than others...the amount of tan to gold color running thruogh the platchet.
I think that acetone will help some. There is something to keep in mind with circulated coins. Whatever is on the coin can be hiding little tiny circulation marks. Those marks may show more after an acetone bath. When you image them again the lighting may really pick up on those marks.
FIRST rule is never clean a coin. That said, I think soap / water / QUALITY model paintbrush (or perhaps other mild chems) would never be detected by pro grader (had LOTS of Chem in college too ) Acetone ? That's a STRONG chemical (no pH, chemically speaking) - and PROBABLY wouldn't be detected. But again, ... see rule #1 .............................................
Unless the 1935 is a DDR (photo blurs when enlarged) then you shouldn't be too worried about what the acetone bath would do to the coins. While neither coin appears to have excessive contaminates on it, acetone won't hurt the surface. As mentioned, get 100% acetone and not fingernail polish remover as it usually has additional chemicals in it. Please share your results if you do.
You should collect some ancients... Not a bad idea either. Soap and water COULD leave some residue which COULD turn really cruddy with age, whereas acetone (which is not a strong chemical...whatever that means) will do no harm. Biggest caveat...don't rub.
↑ I totally agree with nuMRmatist. Not a good idea. Not a bad idea either. ↑ FIRST rule is never clean a coin. That said, I think soap / water / QUALITY model paintbrush (or perhaps other mild chems) would never be detected by pro grader (had LOTS of Chem in college atoo ) Acetone ? That's a STRONG chemical (no pH, chemically speaking) - and PROBABLY wouldn't be detected. But again, ... see rule #1 ............................................. Soap and water COULD leave some residue which COULD turn really cruddy with age, whereas acetone (which is not a strong chemical...whatever that means) will do no harm. Biggest caveat...don't rub. For someone still relatively new to the hobby could someone please clarify the above two opinions as to which is correct. I have a number of coins which are not key dates etc. but i would love to see more of their details
Just used acetone on my trade dollar to help remove old pvc or vinly residue that was flaking off. The acetone lifted it off after about an hour, so I rinsed the coin and let it air dry. Looks great now.
Any plastic or composite material coins ( some foreign,US old state tax coins, etc.) unless you test a damaged one.
One must match the chemical and concentration with the object composition, otherwise damage will occur. It is actually safer today than in the past when cyanide solutions were used on coins, especially silver ones. Some amateur gold prospectors still use it is a refining process. Numismatist Saltus is the prime example : http://numismatics.org/authority/saltus