Another 22 no do for comments.

Discussion in 'What's it Worth' started by johnny54321, Nov 4, 2008.

  1. johnny54321

    johnny54321 aspiring numismatist

    What do you guys think? Decent filler?
     

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  3. HandsomeToad

    HandsomeToad Urinist

    I believe I can see the D so the experts will have to weigh in on whether or not it's a No-D or a Weak-D or neither. :bow:

    Ribbit :)
     
  4. TheNoost

    TheNoost huldufolk

    I think the 2nd 2 being string looks promising. I am not sure though. Check for posts about 22 no d, pretty sure there is a really good informative post on those solmewhere on here.
     
  5. HandsomeToad

    HandsomeToad Urinist

    Here is that thread:

    http://www.cointalk.org/showthread.php?t=41722&highlight=1922

    Ribbit :)

    Ps: If I recall correctly, the last 2 should be weak and not strong, for it to be a weak D or no D?
     
  6. rlm's cents

    rlm's cents Numismatist

    Sorry, but your pics are too small and the coin too worn for me to tell for sure. I see nothing to tell me it is not a weak "D". Probably the best diagnostic for that coin again is the back rotated from the front?
     
  7. johnny54321

    johnny54321 aspiring numismatist

  8. HandsomeToad

    HandsomeToad Urinist

    By my interpretation of this thread's title, the OP is saying it's a No-D, RLM. The "do" in the title was meant to be a "d" instead. ;)

    Ribbit :)
     
  9. HandsomeToad

    HandsomeToad Urinist

  10. johnny54321

    johnny54321 aspiring numismatist

    you are right toad. my mistake. I've been rushing back and forth to watch the news while typing....:)

    RLM, don't you think the lettering on the reverse is too defined to be one of the weak d dies?
     
  11. HandsomeToad

    HandsomeToad Urinist

    Here is the D:


    [​IMG]


    Ribbit :)
     
  12. HandsomeToad

    HandsomeToad Urinist

    I'm doing both at the same time. :cool:

    Ribbit :D
     
  13. rlm's cents

    rlm's cents Numismatist

    Most of the diagnostics are done on the front, but what is so difficult about looking at the rotation? I am pretty sure it is not die #1, or die #4 and I guarantee it is not die #2. That leaves #3 and the easiest and probably the most definitive is the rotation.
     
  14. johnny54321

    johnny54321 aspiring numismatist

    Toad. I do see what you are talking about with the spot. I believe it also could just be a separation of the striations on the obverse but you may very well be right. I do not not have the coin in hand to examine closely yet, but I will get a chance to soon.

    RLM, I dont have the coin in hand to check for rotation, but will be able to look at it again soon and will take better pictures. According to the site I posted, it doesnt seem like a die 3 to me. They say that the second 2 is weaker than the first for a die 3(this one is the opposite). All the die 3s I've looked at have a really sloppy reverse, with "E Pluribus Unum" fat and puffy. I'm not doubting you as you're much more experienced then I and I really appreciate your input. :bow: If you're that confident it's not a die 2, then my current assumption is that it is a regular 22-d until I get to examine it closer. Besides the suspicious marking toad pointed out, is there another reason your sure it isnt a die 2?

    thanks for the help! I'll get it down eventually.:)
     
  15. rlm's cents

    rlm's cents Numismatist

    If it is a weak "D", and it sure appears to be so to me, then there is no way it is die #2. Weak "D"'s do not exist for die #2. If that is not a "D", I see nothing to tell me that it is or is not die #2 mostly because the coin is so worn
     
  16. huntsman53

    huntsman53 Supporter**

    If it is in fact a 1922 Cent, then it is definitely a 1922-D but not sure that the "D" would qualify as a "Weak D" or it is from wear. Also, it looks more like a 1912-D with the second "1" in the Date appearing somewhat squashed which gives it an appearance of being a "2".


    Frank
     

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  17. Treashunt

    Treashunt The Other Frank

    Sorry, but I have to agree with Toad, and Frank.

    Either from wear, or a weak D.
     
  18. johnny54321

    johnny54321 aspiring numismatist

    Well you guys are probably right, though I wont fully concede until i get a better look. Obviously if there's a d there, it cant be a die 2. From what I see through the wear, there are a lot of similarities to a real die 2 that is worn. To the right is an ANACS VG-8 die 2.
     

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  19. Arizona Jack

    Arizona Jack The Lincoln-ator

    Folks,


    I will admit to weakness when it comes to this date. I don't mess with it.

    I will do my best diagnosis in hand, but pic judgements? Forget it.

    Rlm is the most studied scholar here on this , I won't touch it.

    To me? It's a D or it's not. I don't play the weak D game. D is D. I have traded some very high end 22-D's, and consider it " my date " , but this weak, possible, maybe, D /no D/ light D, die 1/2/3 is better left to the experts. I am not one of those experts.

    I buy this coin slabbed. Period. To much " subjectiveness ".

    I'll call a die #2 a no D, nothing else fits my comfort level, too much money involved. Call it inexperience, reluctance to conform, etc etc.....

    If it's not a plain and simple NoD die2, I want no part of it or the market.
     
  20. Arizona Jack

    Arizona Jack The Lincoln-ator

    Addendum:

    I probably have 3 or 4 of these questionable D thingys in my safe in various states of preservation. Some are pretty saleable on Ebay as " raw " No-d's.......

    2 are on the way to PCGS for a pro opinion. 1 is in olive oil. We'll see. Untill I am comfortable, I don;t go there. This is a date in which you must either have too much time on your hands to study, or the willingness to let it fly on the bay and take the $$$$$.....

    I urge all shoppers of this coin to study first and buy last. You MUST know this date to dabble...play and risk will hurt your budget.
     
  21. huntsman53

    huntsman53 Supporter**



    I hear you Jack! Throw the above in with the possibility that it is a 1912-D (which I believe that it is) instead of a 1922-D and you have a whole new Ball Game!


    Frank
     
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