How To Get Rid of Red Spots on Gold, Easy and Cheap

I think it is the angle of the lighting. The coin probably has an
orange peel" surface that looks wavy in one position and smooth in another.

 

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It's lighting. I will try to take some more pictures tonight.
Please remember that this coin is all of 13.5 mm, the right upper quadrant about 3.4 mm - this has been blown up to 90 mm or a factor of almost THIRTY.
So, although I realise my word doesn't count for squat, there is NO damage and the coin is MUCH improved. Well, let us see if more pictures show it.

Absolutely it has an orange peel surface.

 

Here are some more pictures taken tonight, there is considerable orange peel and there in hand are NO issues around things like the two numeral 10s.
Anyway, the treatment was definitely a wonderful success on this coin, even though it is "only" 0.900 fine gold.

 

OK Svengali......make the milk spots disappear on silver eagles.........

 

I wish! Thanks for the credit though....LOL.


My point is that IS a SAFE and INEXPENSIVE (read = CHEAP) method that works despite some of the near vitriolic comments voiced that IMO are NOT valid.

 

Mostly made by Jeritolics...........

 

Here are some IOM Viking coins which I rather like (these don't need "restoring" really):

 

GDJMSP, posted: "Now you might get away with it sometimes where the coin is not damaged - in fact you have been so far. But that doesn't make it a good idea because the risk is real - its factual ! cules in the alloy ?"

Actually, one of his coins did become damaged - evidence od the spot is still on the coin.

 

So not sure where you got that last bit from as ALL were improved. Perfect, no, but I was quite forthright in presenting what I had. You will note that the Anguilla coin was near PERFECT.

GDSMP, love your dissertation, or not, but that was highly deflective and you should be ashamed to use such terms as "eating" which at absolute best is rather crude and not representative of your background I am sure.
In fact it does not "eat" the metal but instead reduces the oxidized state = redox reaction. Check that in YOUR chemistry book lest you forgot. Now then, bringing up examples that have NOTHING to do with what I presented is disingenuous at best. Don't try the straw dummy technique of arguing other points that I did NOT bring up.

Electrolysis in NOT an all or none process, and the currents and reactions generated in the stated OP are VERY mild and when neutralized afterward pose little risk in the manner described. It is not a matter of "getting away with it", and the Anguilla example readily shows how faulty is your point of view.
I really am NOT commenting on your specious (to this case) examples and you might well open up your own thread where such concerns may be addressed.

Let's get this straight - your presentation or response is highly inflammatory and extremely negative and unfortunately betrays what I would expect is a posture of neutrality.

In point of fact the method presented is quite effective, both absolutely and in cost - effectiveness. So get it straight - it is not a matter of luck but rather applied science.If you should ever find yourself in the DC area I would be more than glad to demonstrate this type of treatment.

Quite frankly it appears that you are closed minded and already had your mind made up and tried to defray from some valid observations and procedures that are quite helpful.
Our general mission, as I take it, on these boards with topics such as this is to share valuable information and knowledge, not to suppress it.

 

LOL, now you've gone and done it...

"GDSMP, love your dissertation, or not, but that was highly deflective and you should be ashamed to use such terms as "eating" which at absolute best is rather crude and not representative of your background I am sure."

Here is the thing. Most collectors are not high-fluting chemists. Most don't even know the basics of Chemistry. Many once knew the difference between oxidation and reduction reactions but have forgotten it shortly after the course was over.
Some collectors know the difference between toning and serious corrosion. For those who do, a precise, easy to understand, and commonly used description of a heavily oxidized, end-stage, AND FOREVER DAMAGED surface is that IT HAS BEEN "EATEN AWAY."

From my ignorance, I'll just comment that your method is too messy and too slow for a conservation lab. Otherwise, when done correctly (as you have shown), your method seems to be a better option for many collectors than paying for professional numismatic conservation.

Now let's get serious. Do you have any tips for removing spots from BU copper coins?

 

Wow, that copper is a disaster waiting to happen. Interestingly, I have tried all the commercial solvents available in progressive fashion and as they are solvents they have mostly been ineffective against corrosion - this on cheaper coins & no zincolns, etc.
I have had some luck on copper nickel coins with corrosion and CAREFUL up-titration of ordinary ammonia, but dilute and very gentle tamping of the surface with my favorite cotton buds (ie Q-tips) followed by immediate profuse rinse & mild detergent and more rinse. Very dilute as in 1:4 or 5 and then ramp it up slowly. This is tricky on copper/bronze and there should only be short duration exposure of 10 seconds or so and observe what happens after the above rinse routine. I am not brave enough to try this on anything of value.
This seems to remove finger oils, or at least the acidic byproducts, when caught early and so some spots have been "improved". But that surface on an unc. is really vulnerable to chemical reaction so have not been too brave. I had a 1970 proof English penny laying about and even with what I thought great care managed to cloud the surface in a most unattractive way (cheap coin, but dissuaded me from trying it on the actual two headed proof mint error I have of that date!).

 

Thanks for the inside scoop. I wish I could say I had a stash of gold coins to try this on!

 

Many experiments have an immediate result indicating success, but actually ends up causing more damage over time and conditions. " Coin damage is sometimes like a marriage"

 

Actually, GDJMSP, you have not. From the first you were casting shade and attempting to derail what IMO was a useful thread with snide, rude and unsupported comments - thereby attempting to suppress which is good knowledge. I did not see ONE POSITIVE COMMENT by you.
Actually this method not only works by sound chemical principle, but in practice as well as was shown; it is NOT a panacea but is a very useful tool that has shown excellent results at very low cost. It also has no long term sequelae, and for that reason is very unlike many of the commercial solvents, or the sometimes-advocated "burn" method of applying heat, as these do not.