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Second place doesn't feel good. But my wallet feels better.
Just missed on this unattributed 1796 NC-3. While AG, it has nicer surfaces than most low grade specimens.

 

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These are Hawaiian Coins I recently acquired.

1883 DIME


1847 CENT

I am suspicious of this only because the seller has too many coins which should not be available due to extreme rarity or proof only issues.

Here are comps for the Cent from Heritage Archives:

Crosslet 4


18 Berries

 

I don't like the Hawaiian cent. Mustache and lip aren't right, the eyes don't look right, the hair above the ear doesn't look right.

 

Would someone PLEASE tell me I'm not seeing this.

 

Would someone PLEASE tell me I'm not seeing this.

 

I hope you are seeing it.

 

I'm afraid it's the S-59. After I posted I noticed a slightly different angle on the ribbon loops. The biggest problem for the S-59 Reverse and the reason I eliminated it is:


On these worn and corroded coins, it's easy to pick something out to eliminate a variety. It just leaves me unsatisfied. There's something wrong with all of them. But why? Mint or PMD? Or lighting like the S-38 that looked different with lighting.

I'll try when it comes in and see if I can get a satisfactory result.

 

If not this one, the next one.

 

I recently acquired three coins from a seller and posted them on New Acquisitions. But I'm now zeroing in on the S-132. Almost all of these come on corroded and problem planchets with the few exceptions being merely average. While this certainly has scratches on the cheek and temple, the remaining coin has VF+ detail and better detail than most called VF, particularly on the reverse and the date and bust on the obverse. It has moderate corrosion.

If the detail lost to the scratchy area is overlooked, I think this would be considered VF35 details. I'm not sure how much to drop it for a net grade though I'm leaning toward F-15 details with both corrosion and the scratch.

Now the standard diagnostic for determining die state is a rim break in the dentils at IC. In observing the coins I can find, none of them appear to show such a rim break. I do see a much sharper diagnostics joining two dentils between ED, almost looking like three at times. The strike is often weak in the NE and NY as well, but seems unrelated to die state. This one is particularly strong for the variety with both the reverse and date on the obverse stronger than usual.

Now the thing which intrigues me even more. I think this might have the strength to show a previously unrecorded break which would either replace II or become III. It is not atypical in it's location for many draped busts. I have highlighted the points of interest here:

 

Is this a tweener between B and C with a CUD just beginning to form over E and R? Or is it just wear? I don't know.

 

These two might not be sharp, but YOU guys sure are! Give it a try. Any guidance would be appreciated. They are thin planchets and appear to be devoid of any edge lettering. @Marshall @TypeCoin971793

 

S-76b
S-78

 

Both 1794s?

 

1795. a plain edge 1794 would be worth tens if not hundreds of thousands of dollars. Currently none exist.

 

There are a few mentioned in Breen's guide, but they are considered errors and not intentional products of the mint. They are treated like edge overlap errors and only a minor premium.

 

I should have clarified. Struck on the thin stock of 1795.

 

Yep. But even then, there are a few struck on TAL Tokens which are underweight and some of those do not have edge lettering. I think I have a S-78 struck on a TAL token, but it's still supposed to be on the thin planchetts. None of the thin planchet finds I can find involve 1794s, though a few without edge lettering exist.

There were a small number of thin planchets with edge lettering and thick planchets without edge lettering during the transition, though these are from references and I've not seen any even in photos.

 

I love when you do this

 

Big hug

 

Try your hand at this. I just cherry picked a duplicate for under $100.