I was just given a $37 dollars-worths-collection of Buffalo Nickels. I know nothing about these coins, but I am curious if any might be of any value over 5 cents? While I go through them, should there be any that I should look for that are valuable? Thank you, -Jon
Welcome to the forum!!! Unfortunately, Buffalo Nickels are one of the few U.S. coins that I dont collect.....yet. I'm sure there will be someone here soon that can answer your question.
Welcome to the forum! Basically, nickels made before 1925 can be quite valuable if they have a full readable date. Some other dates that can be worth more are 1926D, 1926S, 1931S, and 1938D if they have a full readable date. Buffalo nickels that have no date are worth around 10 cents each, and with a partial date about 15 cents each. Dealers usually give around 60 cents for a common full date buffalo nickel. If you find any of the dates above please let us know and try to post a picture. Also look at the 1937D nickels for the 3 legged error.
Buffalo nickles are one of the most collected coins , as long as they have a full date they are worth something for there numismatic value . Get a good loupe as there are many different varieties worth a lot of money , 1916 double die obverse is worth a few thiusand in the lower grades , 1918over7 , '35 double die reverse , '36 3 1/2 leg & '37-D 3 legs are all quite exspensive . as are a lot from the teens . rzage
Thank you for the feedback so far. At first glance of the coins, unfortunately most of the dates on the coins are completely rubbed away. Tonight I will take a gander for those that do have full or partial dates and compare them to what has been posted so far. Does anyone know why Buffalo Nickel's dates were rubbed away so easily? It seems to be the most common trait of the nickels that I have. As for some history, these coins were collected during the 1950's and 60's, and have been sitting in a jar since, I can't imagine its inactivity over the past 50 years has added to the rubbing away of the dates?
The reason the date rubs off is because it was minted in higher relief and therefore that was the part of the coin that wore off initially.
The reason the date rubbed of was due to a bad design , the date is one of the highest parts of the design , so while in circulation it was one of the first things to wear away . rzage
WELCOME TO THE FORUM. Almost any of those are worth something. Even the ones without dates could be valuable pending how much time and effort you want to spend. First of all I'd like to recommend you purchasing a book called the Red Book by Whitman Publishing. Lots of great information but ignor the prices. Those are completely off. There is a solution sold on many internet coin sources called Nickadate. This stuff will slightly bring back the dates but if it turns out to be a common date, the discoloration on that spot will only make the coin worth a nickel. Of course that is what it is worth without a date anyway. Basically speaking the most common dated one of those in the worst condition would still be about a dollar. Naturally the better the grade, the higher the condition. Watch for rotated reverses also.
When the coin was first minted wasn't that one thing the critics pointed to as a design flaw? I think I remember reading that somewhere...
I got through about half of the collection. So far my observations are that the bulk of them have no date. Of the ones that have a date, half are from the 1920s and the other half is from the 1930s. Of the 1920s, 90% arfe from 1926 From the 1930's, 90% of those are from 1936 and 1937. The 1937 nickels are in the best condition. I do have a handfull from 1919 and 1918. Those are the earlist that I have found. Once I get through them all and seperate them out by decade, I will seperate them out by year and take another closer look. I am looking at each nickel for the missing leg, and have so far not found any luck. 740 nickels is quite exausting to go through!
Do any have mintmarks , on the reverse under five cents , the 1918 even in the worst shape is worth around $8 rzage
